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Old 10-28-2011, 07:48 PM
dontsayit_sprayit dontsayit_sprayit is offline
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researching for next yrs 1st app fert. help!

i love this site. So many experts with so much knowledge. the rants and debates with cheap shots are fun to read as well.

Im trying to do some research on a granular fert for next spring. 1st app. I'm tired of the quick fizzle the liquid program is giving. I want something that will pop, stand out from the neighbors, and last. (dont we all??)

Feel free to leave your suggestions. also, im not new to applying, but i am to understanding the make up of fert and its affects. thank you
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Old 10-28-2011, 11:55 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Give this a try...

Coat your lawn with a truckload of compost this fall before the final lasting snow falls...

See what happens in the Spring...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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Old 10-29-2011, 10:50 PM
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GreenI.A. GreenI.A. is offline
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If you are using a good quality liquid then you shouldn't have a "quick fizzzle". Most see liquid as quick results which are used up quickly but if you use a quality slow release procuct then it is just as good as liquid. If you want that quick green punch in the spring I would do your final winterizer soon. Not sure of your soil temps but I'm doing my winterizer up here in Boston the next three weeks and were already getting snow. That will help it get a good start in the spring. Once it comes out of dormancy I would hit it with some iron
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Old 10-30-2011, 12:57 AM
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DA Quality Lawn & YS DA Quality Lawn & YS is offline
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Good question, what can give you a nice green pop in the spring, without too much flash in the pan spring overgrowth?

I question the merits of a 'winterizer' adding much of anything to early spring green up the following season. To me, I would rather do my final round fert early enough that the grass can fully utilize the nutrients and feed its roots in the fall, rather than wait until near freeze up and hope the fert carries over to next spring. Just too much going on with brutal winter conditions and spring melt off to have it make sense that a winterizer app will carry over to spring, even a small % of it.
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Old 10-30-2011, 10:33 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DA Quality Lawn & YS View Post
Good question, what can give you a nice green pop in the spring, without too much flash in the pan spring overgrowth?

I question the merits of a 'winterizer' adding much of anything to early spring green up the following season. To me, I would rather do my final round fert early enough that the grass can fully utilize the nutrients and feed its roots in the fall, rather than wait until near freeze up and hope the fert carries over to next spring. Just too much going on with brutal winter conditions and spring melt off to have it make sense that a winterizer app will carry over to spring, even a small % of it.
http://turfdisease.osu.edu/turf-dise...-fertilization
This article agrees with your concept... Another article noted that most of the N applied when the soil is under 50 degrees is never utilized and eventually just leaches or volatizes away...

I've found that aloowing the grass to go dormant at a longer length, then cutting it to the shorter length in the spring starts the growth quicker... I'm also experimenting this fall with heavy apps of compost in certain areas along with the dormant overseed to see how that effects spring growth...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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Old 10-30-2011, 11:18 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Experiment--did you say experiment?

I am thinking that my neighbor would be willing to let me fertilize his vacant lot.

Suppose I treated the left side with fert On Oct 30, and the right side with fert on November 30. Or maybe I have room for three treatments (plus Untreated control).

Suggestions? Is an early spring feed even better?

Unfortunately, I do not intend to buy a lot of different products for comparison. And nothing too radical on my own front yard, LOL!
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Old 10-30-2011, 02:22 PM
dontsayit_sprayit dontsayit_sprayit is offline
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good stuff. great article smallaxe
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  #8  
Old 11-01-2011, 02:35 PM
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Harley-D Harley-D is offline
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Very Good article Smallaxe.
I'm glad i didn't type what i was thinking DA, i didn't even realize that i was confusing a late fall app with the so called "winterizer" app. To be honest with you, i don't know anyone that would apply fert that late, especially after the obvious fact that the grass was dormant. We do some dormant seeding down here but not really any dormant fertilization. We call our winterizer that late fall app with soil at about 55 or so. Right around last cut i think is the perfect time. It's all about the soil temp imo, even if there's snow on the ground, doesn't mean the soil is froze. May still be 45 or so. Perfect for a quick shot of N.
Just recently did some ag research to find that 80-90% of P2O5 is locked in the soil if not taken up by plants immediatly. So everybody does a starter app with seed because of convenience of being on the job, not because it is right. Should probably wait until the seed starts to germinate a week later. Just because you have P in the soil doesn't mean the grass can get it.
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  #9  
Old 11-02-2011, 12:22 AM
dontsayit_sprayit dontsayit_sprayit is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harley-D View Post
Should probably wait until the seed starts to germinate a week later. Just because you have P in the soil doesn't mean the grass can get it.
From what i understand, P is necessary for seedling development, but the challange is that its not very mobile. I recommend applying it after aeration so it physically is deeper in the ground and is accessible to the roots. Or if it is a bare area, roto-tilling it in. otherwise, ive read it could take weeks to months just to move a couple inches into the soil.
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:07 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dontsayit_sprayit View Post
From what i understand, P is necessary for seedling development, but the challange is that its not very mobile. I recommend applying it after aeration so it physically is deeper in the ground and is accessible to the roots. Or if it is a bare area, roto-tilling it in. otherwise, ive read it could take weeks to months just to move a couple inches into the soil.
Seed will geminate and grow in sand or vermiculite or a paper towel, as long as the temp is right and enough water... P is bound in the soils of the world and it is not likely that your lawn needs more P... What is needed is help extracting the bound up P that is there... and that is your AM Fungi...

One of the thing wrong with apply P to new seed is that a fresh app of P tends to 'inactivate' AM Fungi thereby delaying the natural process ofthe plant's survival...

That would be an interestting experiment to see about... 1 plot with starter, 2nd w/out, and a 3rd plot with delayed app of starter...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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