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  #1  
Old 10-31-2011, 11:29 AM
Jay Ray Jay Ray is offline
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Briggs 13.50 horizontal, can't get carb off

B&S 13.50 torque horizontal

Model 201332

0164-B1

080321YD

Mounted on a small Bearcat chipper

Carb has never been off. I think it just needs cleaning.


Can't break the carb loose off the manifold and studs.

Have tapped it kind of hard with a brass hammer, and cut wooden dowels to try to tap it loose coming from the back side. Hasn't budged.

Afraid to put any more force on it.

I have removed the shroud and recoil by trimming the shroud very slightly to get it past the float bowl and off of the engine. Gives a little more room to work.

Any suggestions to get the carb loose? I kind of hate to double nut the studs to remove them when you can't see the metal at the other end. Have never had to do that before.

Anybody had this problem before and have a solution?
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Last edited by Jay Ray; 10-31-2011 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 10-31-2011, 11:41 AM
Jay Ray Jay Ray is offline
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This engine looks new, has low hours.
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:03 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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Jay Ray,

The studs hold the carb in place, If you notice the two carb studs require a reversed torx socket for removal, You can jam the nuts to get them out if you don't have the socket.....
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Old 10-31-2011, 09:31 PM
Jay Ray Jay Ray is offline
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thanks Restrorob, and thanks for not calling me a hammer mechanic
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Old 10-31-2011, 10:20 PM
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Restrorob Restrorob is offline
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No problem Jay Ray,

I'd never call you any kind of mechanic !
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You never learn anything until you admit you don't know it all...

"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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Old 11-02-2011, 12:09 PM
Jay Ray Jay Ray is offline
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No problem Jay Ray,

I'd never call you any kind of mechanic !
I can't argue with that
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Old 11-08-2011, 12:53 PM
Jay Ray Jay Ray is offline
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Set of Lisle torx external sockets came today and I removed the studs and carb the easy way.

Again it is a 13.50 Horizontal: 201332 0164-B1 080321YD

I think it is carb 796321, the float bowl has no drain.

The float and needle valve are carried by and sort of sealed off under a white high density plastic plate Briggs calls a tube-fuel transfer 69142. It is a couple inches in diameter and very tight, maybe cold-fitted into the bore in the float bowl?

Anyway, how is the plastic plate properly removed without boogering it up? I googled it but probably used the wrong words and got nothing.

Do I need to order a special service tool?

The gas was yucky and watery. Still think it just needs cleaning. Has good spark and starts on ether, but won't run.
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Old 11-08-2011, 01:26 PM
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Rob's probably tied up making some real cash right now and at the risk of taking some trash from him, I'll step in and try to fill the void.

Here's a link to your carb and I believe it's the same one referred to by Rob on another current thread "My mower won't start-Help", at least I believe that is correct. You may want to check it out.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/...nikki_carb.asp

Here's the other link:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=364543

By the way, the plastic fuel transfer is probably just stuck to the spider gasket--it's not attached by any retainers.

Last edited by dutch1; 11-08-2011 at 01:31 PM. Reason: add link
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Old 11-08-2011, 04:33 PM
Jay Ray Jay Ray is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutch1 View Post
Rob's probably tied up making some real cash right now and at the risk of taking some trash from him, I'll step in and try to fill the void.

Here's a link to your carb and I believe it's the same one referred to by Rob on another current thread "My mower won't start-Help", at least I believe that is correct. You may want to check it out.

http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/...nikki_carb.asp

Here's the other link:

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.php?t=364543

By the way, the plastic fuel transfer is probably just stuck to the spider gasket--it's not attached by any retainers.
thanks for that info. The spider gasket stayed on the bottom of the carb body.

There's two square holes in the top of the plastic fuel transfer that don't seem to have a function, so a used a pick set to try to break it loose, no luck.

The long center hole in the plastic fuel transfer is just over a quarter inch diameter, so I tapped it 5/16-18NC with a taper tap and got nine full threads not bottoming out on anything. Put a 5/16 eyebolt in, pulled hard as could, no luck. Maybe they did freeze fit it with dry ice

Maybe it is blocked, sealed, and suction locked. It looks like air has access, but can't see deep down.

My next idea is to drill the bowl, break the suction, disassemble, clean, and J-B Weld the hole back up -- using a collar stop shallow on the drill bit of course.

But think I'll wait to see if Restrorob has a better idea before doing that. So far I haven't bought a new carb (I hope).

All this to clean a carb
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Old 11-08-2011, 06:04 PM
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Well Jay Ray,

You haven't bought a $85/$100 carb yet......

There is no suction on the transfer tube, I've had a couple stick on me but enough hammering and prying got them out. Do whatever you need to get it out then replace it along with the main jet and o-ring.

You may try warming it up with a heat gun/hair dryer then try prying/pulling it out.....
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"Why go out preserved when you can go out beat up, worn out, sliding in sideways screaming, Holy Sh!t What A Ride" !!!
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