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  #11  
Old 11-07-2011, 09:28 PM
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Take a look at this; http://outdoorpowerinfo.com/repairs/...nikki_carb.asp

Sounds like your getting too much fuel, The main jet O-ring could be a cause due to this sorry ethanol fuel forced upon us. Also your engine number shows you have a fuel pump, The float needle valve could be seating with the engine stopped but leak (causing flooding) when the engine is cranked over and producing pump pressure.

Because time is money in the shop, I won't go into a flooding carb without replacing the float needle valve. In most cases a needle valve is cheaper than labor to go into it a second time.

I don't know for sure either of these are your fix without being next to your machine, But that's where I'd start looking......
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  #12  
Old 11-07-2011, 10:04 PM
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You're on the money, Rob. In addition, I have run into a warped plastic fuel transfer body as well.

As much as I detest that carb design, you have to work with what's there. The o-ring on the main jet shrinks or breaks and it just floats around in the fuel transfer body allowing the engine to over fuel.

I'm late to the table again, Rob--you cleaned it up.
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  #13  
Old 11-07-2011, 10:28 PM
pfarrish pfarrish is offline
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Thanks guys I appreciate it. The o ring look ok but ill get a new one anyways. Im sure if its worn out then its probably something I wouldnt be able to notice with the naked eye. Ill pick up a float needle as well. I hope this is the problem. Thank you for your time and advice.
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  #14  
Old 11-11-2011, 07:12 PM
pfarrish pfarrish is offline
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So I went to the local store today and bought a new o ring and seal for the carb. They came together in a package. The man didnt have the type of needle on my carb. I replaced the seal and o ring and cleaned the carb again. I know its a carb problem like yall said because it crunk up and then flooded out. So I just went out side and turned the fuel off at the inline fuel shut off. the mower crank and ran for a few and then when it started to die out i turned back on the gas and it ran longer and so on and so on. It keeps getting flooded out. Do the jets have anything to do with this. I guess you will be able to see what type of carb I have with the model numbers and such I listed above. The man at the supply store said my carb is one of the worser carbs as far as carbs go. Thanks for your time, it is greatly appreciated.
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  #15  
Old 11-11-2011, 08:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pfarrish View Post
Do the jets have anything to do with this.

Nope, And the guy was right about these carbs being a pos......


Cut the chase and replace BOTH the float needle valve and transfer tube, For the money it's not worth ripping it apart again with just a needle......
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  #16  
Old 11-11-2011, 10:12 PM
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Replace the spider gasket while you're at it.
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  #17  
Old 11-11-2011, 11:07 PM
pfarrish pfarrish is offline
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Can the transfer tube go bad and also I am unaware to find a spider gasket. maybe there is another name for the part of you could describe it to me. Thanks and sorry for the inconvenience.
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  #18  
Old 11-12-2011, 06:52 AM
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When you buy the new transfer tube (that's the seat for the needle valve as well) it will come with a new fuel inlet o-ring and spider o-ring (the gasket you bought before).

Also make sure you get the transfer clocked correctly so the fuel inlets align properly.....
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  #19  
Old 11-12-2011, 09:09 AM
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Rob, you are correct. I do recall the fuel transfer body/spider o-ring packaged as a single part number but I don't remember the main jet oring being part of that package. I seem to recall that the main jet/oring was a separate number or was part of the large rebuild kit.

On the other hand, maybe I need another cup of coffee-it's possible my two remaining brain cells aren't rubbing together rapidly enough to produce the necessary memory recall.
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  #20  
Old 11-12-2011, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutch1 View Post
I seem to recall that the main jet/oring was a separate number or was part of the large rebuild kit.

That's right Dutch, Separate part.....
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