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  #11  
Old 01-08-2012, 03:14 PM
Ijustwantausername's Avatar
Ijustwantausername Ijustwantausername is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
True its winter, what is normal for your area?
"Although the ground did seem a little dry with the soil plugs the other day."

Never trust the customer to water as much as they say they did. Chances are the yellow spots are the farthest from the faucet.(Or thinnest topsoil). Check it with a soil moisture meter. Check it with your soil probe, screwdriver, trowel or shovel. If you cannot get the soil probe down to 6 inches deep--the soil is not moist. Just to protect yourself take a soil sample and seal it in a jar. If he sues you, just show it to the judge and have it officially analyzed by a soils laboratory. They weigh it--dry it in an oven--and weigh again. They report the exact milligrams of moisture per kilogram of soil.

Naturally topsoil varies--one truckload is fine--the second is not so fertile, (could have come from miles away).
Riggle, thanks for the tip about the soil, I will certainly do that in the future. I'm not worried about them suing me as they are really good people, I just want to give them the lawn they are looking for. As for the soil test, I used a fertility and PH test and PH was great, fertility however was not.

Also, the exact sq footage of the lawn I treated was 9,681 and I think I remember her mentioning that some of the topsoil ran off of their yard, as they are on a small slope. Could be some areas kept the topsoil better than others?

I personally think that the soil is of poor quality and it just needs some good fertilizer like you mentioned earlier. For that fertilizer, what lb/1000sq ft. would you recommend? Thanks
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  #12  
Old 02-15-2012, 08:30 AM
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Ijustwantausername Ijustwantausername is offline
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Riggle, can you mix Ironite with 24-0-11 to get a quick green up? I'm going to try to revive this lawn I messed up in a week or so.
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  #13  
Old 02-15-2012, 12:18 PM
ArTurf ArTurf is offline
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I don't deal in cool season grasses much but do read info and posts. Here is my 2 cents. With the grass being covered in leaves/straw for 3 weeks it was not getting enough sunlight, thus no photosynthesis. Also seems like it could use some nitrogen.

It is winter but don't cool season grasses stay relatively green unless there are extremes of snow or temp. This has been a mild winter for the country overall, I know it has here how about your area.

You did not necessarily mess up. Perhaps it is a combination of many factors some of which might have been beyond your control. Just try to figure it out and learn for future reference.
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  #14  
Old 02-15-2012, 01:48 PM
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Hineline Hineline is offline
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One fertilizer app to a new seeding won't last very long and will yellow within about a month depending on soil fertility. Cold weather will really enhance the yellowing. A one lb/K shot of N and a few days of warmer temps will probably turn it around if things were going well at first.
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  #15  
Old 02-16-2012, 07:49 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hineline View Post
One fertilizer app to a new seeding won't last very long and will yellow within about a month depending on soil fertility. Cold weather will really enhance the yellowing. A one lb/K shot of N and a few days of warmer temps will probably turn it around if things were going well at first.
The best way to look at cold temps and N, is that N is not taken up by the plants as well as we would like. In cool soils N will leach away b4 the roots will absorb it. Leach away or volitize, whichever comes first.

Expecting brite green grass during winter, is not realistic for Fescues, especially. I would think if it was important, that a fast-acting liquid fert might be worth a try, but it is an unnatural interruption of the growth cycle.
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #16  
Old 02-16-2012, 08:03 AM
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Hineline Hineline is offline
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Definitely true. I guess I don't know what the soil temps and the average daytime temps are in NC right now. I would say that all my TTTF seedings I did in northern Ohio last fall were well fed going into winter and have held up well color wise through the winter and no yellowing whatsoever.
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  #17  
Old 02-17-2012, 12:36 AM
CircleC CircleC is offline
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Why would you put Lime on the soil with out knowing what the PH of the soil is. Some dude at Lowe's shouldn't be giving advice on fertilizer. A well balanced high end fertilizer will help bring the lawn back. Also, if you don't know what you are doing you shouldn't be putting chemicals down. Adding lime to a soil which is high in calcium is going to bind it up tight, not letting anything move thru the soil. Lime and Sulfer help with soil content and how material is released in the soil. CAT ion exchange....

Google "REVIVE" its a granular organic material that helps with water penatration and has iron for color. Works great on damaged turf...
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  #18  
Old 02-17-2012, 12:39 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CircleC View Post
Also, if you don't know what you are doing you shouldn't be putting chemicals down. Adding lime to a soil which is high in calcium is going to bind it up tight, not letting anything move thru the soil.
No offense guy, but you should take your own advice.
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  #19  
Old 02-17-2012, 08:24 AM
Ijustwantausername's Avatar
Ijustwantausername Ijustwantausername is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CircleC View Post
Why would you put Lime on the soil with out knowing what the PH of the soil is. Some dude at Lowe's shouldn't be giving advice on fertilizer. A well balanced high end fertilizer will help bring the lawn back. Also, if you don't know what you are doing you shouldn't be putting chemicals down. Adding lime to a soil which is high in calcium is going to bind it up tight, not letting anything move thru the soil. Lime and Sulfer help with soil content and how material is released in the soil. CAT ion exchange....

Google "REVIVE" its a granular organic material that helps with water penatration and has iron for color. Works great on damaged turf...
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I put lime down because as stated we couldn't take a soil test at the time, and the yard is full of red clay, which is naturally acidic. On top of that, it was a small amount.

And please, if you are going to give advice to someone know what you are talking about. Clay type soils do not contain any calcareous material. Additionally, impermeable soils such as red clay will not be "binded up tight" by adding limestone.

Perhaps you should read this.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultisols
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  #20  
Old 02-17-2012, 08:41 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ijustwantausername View Post
I put lime down because as stated we couldn't take a soil test at the time, and the yard is full of red clay, which is naturally acidic. On top of that, it was a small amount.

And please, if you are going to give advice to someone know what you are talking about. Clay type soils do not contain any calcareous material. Additionally, impermeable soils such as red clay will not be "binded up tight" by adding limestone.

Perhaps you should read this.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultisols
Again .... no offense, but maybe you should follow your own advice. Clay soils can most certainly contain calcareous material, however you are correct that a Ultisol will most likely not be calcareous.

Further, clay soils are not "impermeable" and how do you know what amount and type of lime to use without a soil test?
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