Register free!
Search
 
     

The Green Industry's Resource Center


Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 03-05-2012, 10:48 PM
Exact Rototilling's Avatar
Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
LawnSite Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Zone: 5B
Posts: 4,491
Best method for cutting and trimming down Oregon ® mower blades? 16.5” down to 15+"

Best method for cutting and trimming down Oregon ® mower blades? 16.5” down to 15.125”

I have tracked down some blades I believe that will be outstanding Hi Lifts on my BOP Quick 44 but the blade is 16.5” and needs to be cut down.

I have a dewalt angle grinder and cut off disc but I have been told a metal band saw would work best to not damage the temper heat treatment as much. I don’t have access to a metal band saw so I’d have to find a shop that would be willing to do this. The blade edges will be finished and profiled an a grinder and or on my new Magna Matic sharpener if I can get it to do a 90 degree edge. Blade will be balanced on a Magna balancer.
__________________

I'd Rather Be Flying
Always Looking for Greener Grass
Always Looking for Better Mower Blades ™
Say "YES" to higher mowing heights.
...
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-05-2012, 11:47 PM
ecurbthims ecurbthims is online now
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: sudbury ontario
Posts: 435
a sawzall would give the same cut as a bandsaw ,I have had very good luck with the diablo carbide blades at homo depot for cutting metal.You could dress the ends with a file if your worried about too much heat .
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-05-2012, 11:59 PM
Exact Rototilling's Avatar
Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
LawnSite Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Zone: 5B
Posts: 4,491
Quote:
Originally Posted by ecurbthims View Post
a sawzall would give the same cut as a bandsaw ,I have had very good luck with the diablo carbide blades at homo depot for cutting metal.You could dress the ends with a file if your worried about too much heat .
Yes good tip...still more heat than a band saw since the.same section of blade can never cool off like a band saw but I think it would be manageable.
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:26 AM
ngibson6 ngibson6 is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: West TN
Posts: 17
Find a machine shop that has a cold saw. It won't affect the temper and will have a perfect 90 degree angle.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-06-2012, 02:38 AM
fatboynormmie's Avatar
fatboynormmie fatboynormmie is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: balto md
Posts: 729
Hey ER First verify length of blades are correct .Generally blades are measured on a diagonal not end to end .If the numbers are as stated on the 16.5" blade, measure back off the outer edge 11/16 on each side and mark the blade.Verify the measurement between marks is 15.125 or 15 1/8.Find a local machine shop or metal supplier and go talk to the guys that run the equipment in the back and NOT the guys in the office.A bandsaw or coldsaw with a vise are the best choices in my opinion as stated above.If the blades are marked they can rip through them in a matter of minutes.Tell the guy lunch is on you today and slip him $10 or go in the morning with a dozen donuts .Both have worked for me in the past.Good luck
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-06-2012, 05:14 AM
JCLawn and more's Avatar
JCLawn and more JCLawn and more is online now
LawnSite Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 4,770
Quote:
Originally Posted by fatboynormmie View Post
Hey ER First verify length of blades are correct .Generally blades are measured on a diagonal not end to end .If the numbers are as stated on the 16.5" blade, measure back off the outer edge 11/16 on each side and mark the blade.Verify the measurement between marks is 15.125 or 15 1/8.Find a local machine shop or metal supplier and go talk to the guys that run the equipment in the back and NOT the guys in the office.A bandsaw or coldsaw with a vise are the best choices in my opinion as stated above.If the blades are marked they can rip through them in a matter of minutes.Tell the guy lunch is on you today and slip him $10 or go in the morning with a dozen donuts .Both have worked for me in the past.Good luck
this business is always about learning who to talk to when haha
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-06-2012, 09:20 AM
djagusch djagusch is online now
LawnSite Gold Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: MN
Posts: 3,415
Quote:
Originally Posted by Exact Rototilling View Post
Best method for cutting and trimming down Oregon ® mower blades? 16.5” down to 15.125”

I have tracked down some blades I believe that will be outstanding Hi Lifts on my BOP Quick 44 but the blade is 16.5” and needs to be cut down.

I have a dewalt angle grinder and cut off disc but I have been told a metal band saw would work best to not damage the temper heat treatment as much. I don’t have access to a metal band saw so I’d have to find a shop that would be willing to do this. The blade edges will be finished and profiled an a grinder and or on my new Magna Matic sharpener if I can get it to do a 90 degree edge. Blade will be balanced on a Magna balancer.
You really go a long ways to make a mower cut correctly. If you figure the time spent buying a toro/scag/exmark would be way cheaper.

For the blades I would say the band saw is the best bet. Sawzall won't be precise enough to get them balanced/straight. I would look at the liabilty of cutting down blades also.

Lastly most complain about the cost of OEM blades being $18 a blade. Buying oregon blades (guessing $12/blade), cutting them down, and your time driving and balancing is going to make them the most expensive blade on the market.
__________________
Looking for blown Kawi 29HP DFI engine's fd791d, whole thing, intake, throttle body, and electronic's. PM me if you have something you would like to sell.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-06-2012, 12:41 PM
dhardin53 dhardin53 is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Lincoln, Il
Posts: 707
I have cut down several Gator blades over the years. The only safe way to cut it is with a chop saw. Take your time, it is very hard steel.

Nothing else will cut it straight or without destroying the blade.

Name:  untitled.png
Views: 458
Size:  78.0 KB

If you ever need to enlarge or add holes to a Gator you will need a torch to get the steel cherry red only where the hole is to be drilled. After it cools it is possible to get a good carbide bit turning real slow through it, most times.

All this work is worth the effort, this steel is so hard you will be amazed how much longer the blade will hold a edge.

Last edited by dhardin53; 03-06-2012 at 12:50 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-06-2012, 01:06 PM
Exact Rototilling's Avatar
Exact Rototilling Exact Rototilling is online now
LawnSite Platinum Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Zone: 5B
Posts: 4,491
Quote:
Originally Posted by djagusch View Post
You really go a long ways to make a mower cut correctly. If you figure the time spent buying a toro/scag/exmark would be way cheaper.

For the blades I would say the band saw is the best bet. Sawzall won't be precise enough to get them balanced/straight. I would look at the liabilty of cutting down blades also.

Lastly most complain about the cost of OEM blades being $18 a blade. Buying oregon blades (guessing $12/blade), cutting them down, and your time driving and balancing is going to make them the most expensive blade on the market.
Point well taken on the Toro, Exmark & SCAG. If only those manufactures would put their mowers on a diet [turf rutting]and down size them so they don’t take up as much space on a trailer....? I’d absolutely love a Wright stander 32 or 36 but forget the rutting. Same for a Gravely Prostance 34. Too Heavy. Toro Grandstand 36 or 40” again heavy and I hear the the 40 clogs for some users and they are light in the front as is the Grandstand 36. Ferris makes a single hydro 32 that is light weight but no dealers and I’m stepping back wards to a single hydro again. Every other LCO here runs Walkers. The Walker 36 deck needs the C model tractor with narrow tires and that ruts. The bigger tractors with higher flotation tires are much better but the deck is 42”+ and keeps the mower out of the back yards for the most part. I mow largely properties with 40” gates to the back. Frankly the Q44 dually is iffy logistically for me sine it is a full 48” wide. Based on what I have seen the shallower deck BOP mowers just leave a nicer finished cut even when mulching. Maybe it’s because I keep sharp blades....? There are already great blades available for the Q32 Plug & Play.
__________________

I'd Rather Be Flying
Always Looking for Greener Grass
Always Looking for Better Mower Blades ™
Say "YES" to higher mowing heights.
...
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-06-2012, 04:08 PM
djagusch djagusch is online now
LawnSite Gold Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: MN
Posts: 3,415
Can't go by wieght alone. Look at the psi of the tire footprint and compare.
Posted via Mobile Device
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.com™ - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:13 AM.

Page generated in 0.08851 seconds with 8 queries