Fertilizing in michigan now? - LawnSite.com™

premierlawncaremi · #1 03-18-2012, 10:56 AM

Are any Michigan guys putting down pre-m yet with these HIGH spring temps? Im already seeing some dandelions pop up..

RigglePLC · #2 03-18-2012, 08:37 PM

Better hurry, most experts recommend you treat before the soil temps hits 65. ( Soil was 50 here yesterday). Others say when forsythia blooms.

Myself, I suggest, be sure you get it down before the air temp hits 80.
Tony at Earth Service can give you expert local conditions advice and historical data. And if you show up on March 21st--free lunch and open house.

Scotts says you must get crabgrass control down before the fifth mowing (in the north). (Southern grasses don't need mowing until later).

most experts say you should get all lawns treated before the date of the last frost.
Take a look at Michigan State University GDD data.
http://www.gddtracker.net/?model=7&offset=0
If it takes three weeks to complete your crabgrass control--you have to start 3 weeks in advance of the final date.

Cadzilla · #3 03-18-2012, 08:47 PM

Crabgrass germinates when soil has reached 63-65 degrees for several days in a row. That will be very soon.

Broad leaf weeds generally pop when soil hits 75 degrees for 3 days.

Soil temps in the southern Michigan area are anywhere from 56 to 63 degrees depending on the time of day.

and rising fast. I expect crab to germinate next week at the latest and weeds probably next week as well.

I am starting round 1 tomorrow. 2 weeks early and I feel like I am 2 weeks behind.

I am running weed control right out of the gate with round 1.

Hineline · #4 03-19-2012, 05:56 AM

I'm starting at the end of the week with dimension in NE ohio. I got a great buy on it this year but I normally use prodiamine so I'm not in panic mode. Should be able to spray some broadleaves too. Mid to high 70's all week.

DA Quality Lawn & YS · #5 03-19-2012, 09:53 AM

Better hurry? You guys are getting WAY too nervous. Crabgrass isn't going to pop now, esp with temps heading back down into the lower 60's for a while. Our lawns here are still semi dormant - when I see more response from them I will start fert/pre. If you are really worried about missing some crab (very unlikely), then use Dimension.

Glenn Lawn Care · #6 03-19-2012, 07:43 PM

I would like to start by next week but it all depends if the grass is still dormant here. Last year I was late on laying pre-mergent, and I not gonna make that mistake this year.

Hineline · #7 03-20-2012, 05:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DA Quality Lawn & YS

Better hurry? You guys are getting WAY too nervous. Crabgrass isn't going to pop now, esp with temps heading back down into the lower 60's for a while. Our lawns here are still semi dormant - when I see more response from them I will start fert/pre. If you are really worried about missing some crab (very unlikely), then use Dimension.

We are completely greened up here now. Lawns look amazing from the mild winter and great nutrient fixation last year. According to the growth charts I am at the end of my optimal preemerge date already. I'm starting the same day as last year. The target temps for germination doesn't mean it all starts to germinate but a few might get going before I get it down. Glad I got a good buy on dimension this year.

TKLAWN · #8 03-22-2012, 06:49 PM

With gound temps approaching 55 degrees in southern MN woudn't it be a good time to get the pre-m on now as opposed to later. What are the negatives of getting it on too soon, as they advertise 4 month protection on crabgrass. PLEASE HELP???

RigglePLC · #9 03-22-2012, 08:47 PM

Its a guessing game. If it takes 3 weeks to complete your crabgrass control...start at least 3 weeks before expected germination. since the season is so early this year you should plan to finish 3 weeks earlier than last year. Sure it might fade out and allow late season germination, but that is relatively uncommon, i think.

And...you could always use a bit higher rate so the crab protection would last longer--or use a split ap. Or if you have a good appreciation of what lawns had problems last year, and if you understand what areas are crabgrass prone...you can walk slower when covering those areas, open up two notches...or just go over them twice. Front yards near the road. Along curbs. Thin areas. You don't need as much crabgrass control in shady yards, areas with only half day sun, east of house, north of house. Hold the lever partially closed.