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  #31  
Old 03-30-2012, 12:14 AM
oviedo oviedo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric View Post
http://www.cdms.net/LDat/ld07A016.pdf

Check Out Page 5 section 8.3 CHEMICAL MOWING. The rates there are for Cool Season turf which isn't a tolerant of Roundup as warm season turf is.

The Rate I gave of 1/2 oz per thousand is a tried and proven rate for Sand Spurs on both Bahia and Bermuda. However at that rate you might get some yellowing or stripping. In all cases you won't get a dark Green turf and Chemical mowing is not for fine lawns. Utility Turf can be managed very economical with Chemical mowing.

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Interesting information, need to research this Chemical Mowing concept. Looks like plenty more around the site.
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  #32  
Old 03-30-2012, 12:17 AM
oviedo oviedo is offline
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By the way I have a 4 gallon backpack sprayer is that going to be able to do the trick. It's a bit of a pain right now trying to kill the lawn, or I should say going slow. Doesn't help that the kids have baseball games almost every night.

I also have a batting cage in the back that gets a bit sloppy because getting a mower in there is a pain. So I weed wack, maybe something like this chemical mowing would be better than moving the net around and weed whacking. The grass in their gets very little sun and it's very sandy.
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  #33  
Old 03-30-2012, 10:45 AM
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Ric Ric is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oviedo View Post
By the way I have a 4 gallon backpack sprayer is that going to be able to do the trick. It's a bit of a pain right now trying to kill the lawn, or I should say going slow. Doesn't help that the kids have baseball games almost every night.

I also have a batting cage in the back that gets a bit sloppy because getting a mower in there is a pain. So I weed wack, maybe something like this chemical mowing would be better than moving the net around and weed whacking. The grass in their gets very little sun and it's very sandy.
Oviedo

Fence Lines and other Weed Wacker areas can be controlled by Chemical Mowing with Roundup IF you accept a little brown out once and a while. Remember I said this was not for fine turf only Utility turf. Fine Turf Growth Regulator like Primo are super expensive for Bahia at 33oz per acre label rate. BTW the St Augustine rate is only 4.5 to 6.5 oz per acre.

Roundup Chemical mowing is the cheapest start up cost. However I have other chemicals that cost a small fortune per gallon but are even cheaper per acre than Roundup or generic Roundup. They also work better and longer. But once again Utility Turf only.


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  #34  
Old 03-30-2012, 10:52 AM
bug-guy bug-guy is offline
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i have not read the whole post, but agree with Ric, pennscola bahia will be a PITA to mow the seed heads will bend over and pop back up. argentina would be and has been my choice. yes it's $$. check into a slit seeder rental and google agrentina seed germination.
the seed MUST be in contact with the soil, but if to deep you will have less than disireable results. also check with your county/town for water restrictions, well or city you still must comply. and alot of municiplaties have NO provision for seed, just sod and plugs. one of my cust got a 500.00 fine last year. remember when you water you just need to water to the depth of the seed, any heavier would be a waste and poss wash some away
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  #35  
Old 03-30-2012, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by bug-guy View Post
i have not read the whole post, but agree with Ric, pennscola bahia will be a PITA to mow the seed heads will bend over and pop back up. argentina would be and has been my choice. yes it's $$. check into a slit seeder rental and google agrentina seed germination.
the seed MUST be in contact with the soil, but if to deep you will have less than disireable results. also check with your county/town for water restrictions, well or city you still must comply. and alot of municiplaties have NO provision for seed, just sod and plugs. one of my cust got a 500.00 fine last year. remember when you water you just need to water to the depth of the seed, any heavier would be a waste and poss wash some away
Bug Guy

Great post. Yes Timing is import and the dry season might be a better time to seed because of heavy summer rain. Adding Brown top Millet which germinates quickly as a cover crop help hold water and soil. Spreading Straw over the area also helps to hold in moisture. The big thing in seeding is stopping erosion as you pointed out. very Light watering several times a day for the first 30 days works for me. BTW I have a Slit Seeder that doesn't get used a lot. I also have the Roller.


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"TG doesn't give a rats ass about being "Responsible" as long as sales/production quotas are met. That's it in a nutshell. A recipe for disaster IMO." Ted Putnam 2/28/14

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"As Americans you have the right to be stupid." John Kerry

"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid.” John Wayne.
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  #36  
Old 03-30-2012, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by oviedo View Post
Anyone have any recommendations on a lawn sweeper? I still have some leaves on that ground which is not good for seeding. The reviews on these things are all over the place.
Re-reading this post on a lazy Friday after noon. Mulch the leafs instead of removing them. They add organic matter to your soil.


BUT FOR SAND SPURS, Drag a burlap cloth around your yard to pick up any stray Sand Spur stickers which are seeds. Sand Spur are hard to totally get rid of and it takes both Chemical and Mechanical means to control them. Cutting the yard short before seeding will help to pick up more Sand Spurs.


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"TG doesn't give a rats ass about being "Responsible" as long as sales/production quotas are met. That's it in a nutshell. A recipe for disaster IMO." Ted Putnam 2/28/14

You can lead a Donkey to water but you can't make the Jackass Drink

"As Americans you have the right to be stupid." John Kerry

"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid.” John Wayne.
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  #37  
Old 03-30-2012, 05:20 PM
oviedo oviedo is offline
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Burlap cloth I like it. The more you can pick up the less I get in my house and they do act as seeds.

Slit seeding, I am not sure I am prepared for, need to check into it. Do I have much of a use for this tow behind seeder I bought? I could always return it's still boxed. 100 lb. capacity could have use for fertilizer and bug killer I suppose right?
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  #38  
Old 03-30-2012, 05:23 PM
oviedo oviedo is offline
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By the way I did go ahead and spray this 41% glyphosate near my fences because I have that wire stuff and the weed wacker would get screwed up trying to cut down weeds in that area. So I browned it out thinking the heck with it.
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  #39  
Old 03-30-2012, 05:25 PM
oviedo oviedo is offline
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Off the top of my head with the 4 gallon backpack sprayer I am using 1 oz per gallon is that right?

So basically chemical mowing is 1/2 of that amount? You know I'll have to get back and check sometime tomorrow I don't know if that scoop constitutes an oz. or not. Basically the roundup lid can fit 3 scoops and we add a 4th or something to that effect.
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  #40  
Old 03-30-2012, 05:38 PM
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Ric Ric is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oviedo View Post
Off the top of my head with the 4 gallon backpack sprayer I am using 1 oz per gallon is that right?

So basically chemical mowing is 1/2 of that amount? You know I'll have to get back and check sometime tomorrow I don't know if that scoop constitutes an oz. or not. Basically the roundup lid can fit 3 scoops and we add a 4th or something to that effect.
Oviedo

Reading this question I would like to suggest you hire a professional. I don't believe you are able to follow the proper math or understand Pesticides enough to calibrate the proper product for Chemical mowing. Sorry I don't have the patiences to hold your hand.



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"TG doesn't give a rats ass about being "Responsible" as long as sales/production quotas are met. That's it in a nutshell. A recipe for disaster IMO." Ted Putnam 2/28/14

You can lead a Donkey to water but you can't make the Jackass Drink

"As Americans you have the right to be stupid." John Kerry

"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid.” John Wayne.
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