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Old 03-30-2012, 08:58 PM
racer1970 racer1970 is offline
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peters 20-20-20 pro soluble fert. for turf?

Has anyone tried 20-20-20 water soluble fert w/micros for turf? I was thinking of doing a .25lb per K app for Bermuda and st Augustine.... As i normally use UAN with phosphite and iron, and works great at .25 N rate last for a good 4-6 weeks... wondering how the 20-20-20 will work
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Old 03-31-2012, 11:15 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Do you southern guys really need as much P, as you do N or K in liquid form?
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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Old 03-31-2012, 12:01 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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Why use a water soluble product? After about an inch of rain...it is washed away or leached out...probably creating green slime in your favorite fishing hole downstream.
If it rains where you live, a coated nitrogen, or a slow release methylene urea would be a better bet. If you can also find a coated potash source, that would be even better. Potash is highly water soluble. Sandy soils do not retain it well at all.

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Old 03-31-2012, 12:48 PM
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Ric Ric is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer1970 View Post
Has anyone tried 20-20-20 water soluble fert w/micros for turf? I was thinking of doing a .25lb per K app for Bermuda and st Augustine.... As i normally use UAN with phosphite and iron, and works great at .25 N rate last for a good 4-6 weeks... wondering how the 20-20-20 will work
Racer

If you trust Warm Season turf advice from people in Wisconsin and Michigan then go with it. I try not to give advice about Cool Season Turf. Unlike them I admit I know very little about turf I don't work with. However I work with Warm Season Turf every day and feel I know a little about it.

Triple 20 is a great blend that pretty much has all the elements. It was developed for Green houses and plants that are grown in Green House or nurseries. That blend is packaged under multipy brand names and is the same Blend whether it is called Mircle Grow of K mart Grow etc etc. I buy a generic for $ 19.00 a 25 pound bag. It can be expensive to apply on turf. In the old day it was a popular supplement for turf and was applied at 25 lbs per acre or 0.10 of a pound of actual N. However New Fertilizer laws in Florida pretty much ban the use of that blend for turf and even shrubs because of the Nitrate and Phosphorus contamination in our water. Golf Course are still using it on Greens as a quick shot of "Green it Up". But Golf Course have big budgets and will pay fines etc.


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Old 03-31-2012, 12:57 PM
racer1970 racer1970 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RigglePLC View Post
Why use a water soluble product? After about an inch of rain...it is washed away or leached out...probably creating green slime in your favorite fishing hole downstream.
If it rains where you live, a coated nitrogen, or a slow release methylene urea would be a better bet. If you can also find a coated potash source, that would be even better. Potash is highly water soluble. Sandy soils do not retain it well at all.

There ought to be a law. Actually I think there is a law.
I prefer a foliar app as most is taken up by the plant not the roots and at .25lb per K vary little is wasted in soil or leached out. I have done both soil and tissue samples of turf that has been fed by granular and foliar and the turf that had the best test was the foilar fed tissue test showed great results and the soil showed vary little left over.... and the granular app turf was not as good in tissue test and soil showed locked up nutrients not used.

Also when you spray you can tank mix your insecticide, pre-m, and fungicide together and do one app for everything instead of having to spread than spray... much quicker and better,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Foliar_feeding
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