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  #1  
Old 03-31-2012, 01:46 PM
stebs stebs is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Eastern KS
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Seed after Scotts crabgrass preventer

My dad recently put down scotts turfbuilder fertilizer with crabgrass preventer in it. However, I am needing to reseed the lawn. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to give the seed a fighting chance against the crabgrass preventer. I have access to a tine dethatcher, spike aerator, and a slitseeder.
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  #2  
Old 03-31-2012, 09:50 PM
MarkSupply MarkSupply is offline
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Wait till fall......
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  #3  
Old 04-01-2012, 12:20 AM
stebs stebs is offline
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I was afraid of that...
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Old 04-01-2012, 09:36 AM
Teach123 Teach123 is offline
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I agree with MarkSupply. Fall is by far the best time to do it...gives those roots a chance to grpw before hot weather comes in summer. Next time if you want to seed in Spring, put a tarp or the like over the sections you are seeding. I have done this the ONE time I Spring seeded. Otherwise, wait till Fall.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:10 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teach123 View Post
I agree with MarkSupply. Fall is by far the best time to do it...gives those roots a chance to grpw before hot weather comes in summer. Next time if you want to seed in Spring, put a tarp or the like over the sections you are seeding. I have done this the ONE time I Spring seeded. Otherwise, wait till Fall.
How does the tarp relate to the CG Preventer question???
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #6  
Old 04-01-2012, 10:22 AM
Teach123 Teach123 is offline
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Tarp...If there are small spots to seed I cover them with a tarp or cardboard when applying the pre-E. The soil doesn't have contact with the pre-E. Again, not ideal..but it works.
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Old 04-01-2012, 10:36 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Originally Posted by Teach123 View Post
Tarp...If there are small spots to seed I cover them with a tarp or cardboard when applying the pre-E. The soil doesn't have contact with the pre-E. Again, not ideal..but it works.
Good idea, nonetheless...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #8  
Old 04-01-2012, 11:22 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Sometimes perennial rye grass will punch right through the crabgrass barrier. You can improve your chances if you prep the soil by heavy raking, power rake, slit seeder, or adding topsoil or compost. Double seed followed by double aeration would be quickest. True, you may cut some seeds in half...but...most of the core dirt ends up on top of the seed. You can always drag the cores to incorporate the seed of course.

This is an experiment I would like to try. Let us know what happens.

Edge II has large seeds that come up in 4 to 6 days. Dark green and disease resistant.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...m3Vu-g&cad=rja
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