Register free!
Search
 
     

The Green Industry's Resource Center


Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 04-08-2012, 10:30 AM
j-sin j-sin is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 45
wow thanks so much for AWESOME information

I do have a broadcast spreader I had planned on using to spread the seed
and I was going to rent am aerator from local tool rental and go over my lawn 3 times

Is a drop spreader required for seeding ir is that sufficient for spreading the seed

I would also use it for the lime and starter fertilizer

I had planned on using Lesco Transition blend fescue

your numbers for seeding is at 6 lbs an acre or even 8

would these numbers be LESS for overseeding the following year?
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 04-08-2012, 10:32 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,746
So Southern grasses cannot be sown in the Spring???
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 04-08-2012, 11:54 AM
Bigfish8 Bigfish8 is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 56
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
So Southern grasses cannot be sown in the Spring???
In Central North Carolina sowing Fescue in the Spring is a waste of time and money. The grass will come up but does not have enough time to establish a root system to sustain it through the hot months of summer. Even sowing Fescue in the fall you will have to overseed again every fall because the heat will kill some every year.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 04-08-2012, 12:38 PM
Duekster Duekster is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,971
When I lived in NC lots of people did use fescue but some people had what was called wire grass. NC is one of those transisition states that is not great for cool season or warm season grasses.


there are some improved warm season grasses that will likely do well in Charlotte but I would need to know more before making a recommendation

I would start off with some soil test. This will tell you how much lime you need.
You forget to tell us if you have sun or shade or both?

Last edited by Duekster; 04-08-2012 at 12:42 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 04-08-2012, 01:15 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
LawnSite Bronze Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winston-Salem NC
Posts: 1,563
Quote:
Originally Posted by j-sin View Post
wow thanks so much for AWESOME information

I do have a broadcast spreader I had planned on using to spread the seed
and I was going to rent am aerator from local tool rental and go over my lawn 3 times

Is a drop spreader required for seeding ir is that sufficient for spreading the seed

I would also use it for the lime and starter fertilizer

I had planned on using Lesco Transition blend fescue

your numbers for seeding is at 6 lbs an acre or even 8

would these numbers be LESS for overseeding the following year?

I use a drop spreader to seed anywhere i want a sharply defined edge. I use a rotary spreader for everything else, including fertilizer and pelletized lime. Transition blend seed is a good start but you can do better. Yes, the number for overseeding is less, 3 Lbs. per 1000 sq. ft. the next year, 2 Lbs. per 1000 after that.

Last edited by agrostis; 04-08-2012 at 01:19 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 04-09-2012, 09:57 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,746
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigfish8 View Post
In Central North Carolina sowing Fescue in the Spring is a waste of time and money. The grass will come up but does not have enough time to establish a root system to sustain it through the hot months of summer. Even sowing Fescue in the fall you will have to overseed again every fall because the heat will kill some every year.
If CG was the only warm-season grass that I could get to grow in my lawn in the Spring time , I think I would let it grow, rather than have mud all summer...
We are moving into the ONLY time of year, that makes Wisco, tolerable...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 08-30-2012, 06:23 AM
j-sin j-sin is offline
LawnSite Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 45
time to sow

been waiting for months the time is HERE now

what should my attack plan be?

there are also a couple really bumpy spots when Im mowing
I may have it tilled or bring in soil

suggestions?
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 08-30-2012, 01:27 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,746
Bringing in soil, is generally a lot less hassle than tilling and leveling the clumps and waiting for it to finsh settling again... beyond that Southerners will have to advise you on what to seed and how to make it thrive... good luck...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 09-03-2012, 10:35 AM
puppypaws's Avatar
puppypaws puppypaws is offline
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Marshville,NC 28103
Posts: 7,361
Quote:
Originally Posted by j-sin View Post
been waiting for months the time is HERE now

what should my attack plan be?

there are also a couple really bumpy spots when Im mowing
I may have it tilled or bring in soil

suggestions?
How bad is the lawn, and is there a great deal of crabgrass? The reason I ask this question is because there are different modes of attack. If the lawn is bad enough, I would spray Roundup to kill everything growing, but while I was spraying the roundup I would also add a pre-emergent weed killer. The pre-emergent herbicide will move into the ground forming a barrier that will hold weed competition out for approximately 60 days, while allowing for full grass establishment. The herbicide will need to be incorporated by either rainfall (need at least 1/2"), or by you mechanically watering to ensure thorough penetration.

After your Roundup has done its job (approximately one week), and you are certain the herbicide is incorporated, take a mixture of 1 lb. of Kentucky Bluegrass, to 10 lbs. of Kentucky 31 creeping fescue and spread it liberally, and uniformly over the lawn area. Do not, I repeat, do not skimp on seed to be sown, whatever the amount of seed recommended in pounds per square foot for your area, "DOUBLE OR TRIPLE THIS AMOUNT."

THE BEST FIGHT YOUR LAWN CAN EVER PUT UP AGAINST INVASIVE WEED AND GRASSES NOT DESIRED IS COMPETITIVE EXCLUSION. This means the thicker your stand of grass, the better chance it has of surviving while holding invasive species at bay.

If you have what you may consider as a reasonable amount of established grass which should be utilized, then we will take a very strong dose of 2, 4-D with a pre-emergent herbicide to clean it up.

I am in the Southern Piedmont of NC, so the reason I am advocating a pre-emergent weed control herbicide is because you need to be working on this project immediately, and the first hard-killing frost in my area is not normally until November. This means there would still be time for weeds to come back an compete for space against your newly germinated grass seed.

I don't need to tell you about aerating, sowing grass and watering, I take it you are knowledgeable on this part of the project.
__________________
Farm Mower
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 09-07-2012, 01:01 AM
maynardGkeynes maynardGkeynes is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 392
Quote:
Originally Posted by puppypaws View Post
.... take a mixture of 1 lb. of Kentucky Bluegrass, to 10 lbs. of Kentucky 31 creeping fescue and spread it liberally, and uniformly over the lawn area. ...
Just saw this -- Please don't use K-31, ugliest stuff there is. A TTTF like Rebel with 10% KBG would be ok. Personally, I'd go with perennial rye for now, and dormant seed in January/Feb with Yukon Bermudagrass. Recent studies have shown that dormant seeding works well with Yukon, and you might even get some germination in March if the weather is mild like last year. It will soon overtake the ryegrass, as long as you keep the ryegrass cut very low once the Yukon starts to germinate and has reached a height of one inch. Yukon will go dormant after the first hard frost, which is pretty late in your area, is very cold tolerant, greens up early in April, and crowds out the weeds. What more could anyone ask?
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:58 AM.

Page generated in 0.07888 seconds with 7 queries