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  #151  
Old 05-19-2013, 07:46 PM
nnusskern nnusskern is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alldayrj View Post
Im finding tons of them for 3point on tractors for 2k obo on craigslist. Is it as simple as torching the mounts off and welding on a QA plate? Or are the flow rates different etc?
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Are they hydraulic or pto driven
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  #152  
Old 05-19-2013, 07:50 PM
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alldayrj alldayrj is offline
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Ahhh touche. At least one was PTO. So i guess i need a hydro one at a minimum
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  #153  
Old 05-19-2013, 07:57 PM
Hollowellreid Hollowellreid is offline
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That looks like it did a great job
There, i'd like one as well.

What do people think Harley rake vs. FCC preparator?
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  #154  
Old 05-19-2013, 07:59 PM
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alldayrj alldayrj is offline
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Is that similar to. Rockhound?
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  #155  
Old 05-19-2013, 08:08 PM
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alldayrj alldayrj is offline
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Just got a video loaded from when i was still figuring it out
Click to play

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  #156  
Old 05-19-2013, 08:19 PM
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alldayrj alldayrj is offline
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http://s274.photobucket.com/user/sil...CF264.mp4.html
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  #157  
Old 05-19-2013, 09:26 PM
JNB Construction JNB Construction is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alldayrj View Post
Ahhh touche. At least one was PTO. So i guess i need a hydro one at a minimum
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The tractor (3 pt) versions are all pto driven.
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  #158  
Old 05-20-2013, 09:07 PM
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TomG TomG is online now
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Always use it in float and adjust the height by using the tilt/curl function of your skid. Don't go in reverse its a waste of time and its too hard to look where your going and adjust the height of the rake. You will end up digging in and mess up what you have done. When going over freshly spread top soil, go over it twice maybe 3 times, if your going more than that your doing something wrong. Go over the area in one direction then on the next pass go perpendicular to the passes you just made. On the 3rd pass go on a 45deg angle to what your last pass was. Going over the entire area in the same exact direction more than once is a waste of time. No need to ever adjust the height of the wheels and the power tilt function is kind of useless, when its tilted all the way to one side it makes one side of the drum dig into the ground more and will mess up your nice level lawn. I disabled ours with a metal bar.

Here is a video I made a few weeks ago of me using our harley rake with our track machine. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRd0L7CthIQ

If you think a harley rake is really nice on a wheeled machine try it on a track machine. Its a 1000% better.

I also use it to regrade gravel driveways and to rip up lawns amongst other things. Its one of my favorite tools and most useful. We used to have a york rake and a rockhound. This runs circles around those and does a better job hands down. Its paid for its self hundreds if not thousands of times over for us, just in the time it saves for hand raking.
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  #159  
Old 05-20-2013, 09:41 PM
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alldayrj alldayrj is offline
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Thanks Tom I saw your video the other day when cruising for videos to learn from. On a job that size it must be great. This job was almost too small.


How is it on gravel? Do the teeth ever need replacing? Anything to look for on a used one when buying?
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  #160  
Old 05-20-2013, 09:55 PM
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TomG TomG is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alldayrj View Post
Thanks Tom I saw your video the other day when cruising for videos to learn from. On a job that size it must be great. This job was almost too small.


How is it on gravel? Do the teeth ever need replacing? Anything to look for on a used one when buying?
Its great on gravel. Use it all the time to regrade and smooth out rutted/ pot holed gravel driveways. Our rake is 10+ years old and we have never replaced the teeth. Ours is missing a few but it doesn't seam to matter. Check out the drive chain and drive chain box when buying used. Its not in the best spot, tends to get beat up. In the 10+ years of owning ours we have snapped the drive chain once and gotten 100's of flat tires. Thats about it. It sure takes a beating and it has held up extremely well in my opinion.
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