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  #21  
Old 04-16-2012, 03:04 PM
ReddensLawnCare ReddensLawnCare is online now
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You need to identify what is causing the moss issue. It could be the PH of your soil, not enough sunlight, to much moisture, ect. Also, you may want to google what types of turf grow well in you area. I am pretty sure fescue does not like sand, but I am not positive. Contact you local ag extension as they will have good advice for you. Once you can figure out what seed you need, then the questions you posted can be utilized. If it was me and I lived in that zone and CrabGrass wasnt an issue, I would let it grow to around 3 inches, spray with gly, cut short and bag, aerate heavily, seed, fert, and lightly rake or roll to increase seed to soil contact. Keep the seed wet for best results. Before you waste any money doing that, you need to figure out why it is not growing now. I dont want you to waste your money. Hope that helps
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  #22  
Old 04-16-2012, 03:08 PM
steppinthrax steppinthrax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReddensLawnCare View Post
You need to identify what is causing the moss issue. It could be the PH of your soil, not enough sunlight, to much moisture, ect. Also, you may want to google what types of turf grow well in you area. I am pretty sure fescue does not like sand, but I am not positive. Contact you local ag extension as they will have good advice for you. Once you can figure out what seed you need, then the questions you posted can be utilized. If it was me and I lived in that zone and CrabGrass wasnt an issue, I would let it grow to around 3 inches, spray with gly, cut short and bag, aerate heavily, seed, fert, and lightly rake or roll to increase seed to soil contact. Keep the seed wet for best results. Before you waste any money doing that, you need to figure out why it is not growing now. I dont want you to waste your money. Hope that helps
The moss is just in a small section of the yard, maybe around 10 sq ft etc... just a couple of patches of it on a hill in the shade...
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  #23  
Old 04-17-2012, 06:43 AM
j-sin j-sin is offline
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Seeing tat he has SOME grass already wouldnt a good broadleaf herbicide be more fitting?

like maybe Lesco Momentum? why kill off EVERYTHING?
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  #24  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:24 AM
steppinthrax steppinthrax is offline
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Originally Posted by j-sin View Post
Seeing tat he has SOME grass already wouldnt a good broadleaf herbicide be more fitting?

like maybe Lesco Momentum? why kill off EVERYTHING?
I have no grass. Mostly weeds.
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  #25  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:37 AM
ReddensLawnCare ReddensLawnCare is online now
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you have to wait 4 weeks after spraying momentum or most selective herbicides. Get the soil sample and post it on here for us to analyze.
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  #26  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:39 AM
steppinthrax steppinthrax is offline
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Also, don't I need to add some sort of soil, manure etc...??

Why don't I need to remove the dead weeds, don't I need to rake these up at least?
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  #27  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:40 AM
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White Gardens White Gardens is online now
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OK, here's what I would do.

Do soil samples first. Find out what exactly is going on with your lawn so you have a better chance of success.

After you've done that,

1.) Mow low
2.) Wait one day for a tiny bit of recovery, then spray round-up.
3.) When you think the Round-Up is good and dry, use a slit seeder, or a power rake type seeder to seed in the lawn.


http://ryanturf.com/ryan-mataway-overseeder.asp
A Ryan disc type seeder would be your best option. Aerating only creates so much of an area for seed to go. With a disc type seeder, you can get right down into the soil. Also do at least 2 passes at half the seeding rate to get good coverage. It will also not disturb the thatch too much for less mess during the process. Call some rental houses and see who has one to use.

Or, if you can't find one, use a slit seeder to get the job done, but you will have thatch and other junk come out of the lawn to clean up afterwards.
http://www.bluebirdintl.com/node4139.aspx?pid=243638

When you are done regardless, then over-seed the entire lawn with a broadcast spreader at a low rate to fill in any areas.

Don't use a roller. No need to as long as you get good seed to soil contact. The roller only creates compaction, and is only used in broadcast type seedings.

No need to remove dead weeds.

Also, your soil samples will tell you if you need to amend the soil with fertilizer or compost. If you go that route, then you need to till the whole yard, and that gets into a lot of work.



...
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  #28  
Old 04-17-2012, 08:53 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Aerating makes an unnecessary mess and will serve no purpose on barren sand... slit-seeding shourtly after RU is sprayed...

I agree with h.o. that ammendments are probably a good idea... of course compost over the seeding will be the best for that... other and lesser ammendments are out there, but that is the only one I use anymore...

In fact I have a job(coming up) that sounds alot like your situation, only it's Wisco and I'll be doing something similar this Fall... more like August...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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  #29  
Old 04-17-2012, 11:30 AM
ReddensLawnCare ReddensLawnCare is online now
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You dont need to remove the dead weeds because they are dead and they will act as nutrients to your soil when they break down. You need to get you lawn on a fertilizer and weed control regiment, but only after you get that soil sample.
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  #30  
Old 04-17-2012, 12:34 PM
steppinthrax steppinthrax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ReddensLawnCare View Post
You dont need to remove the dead weeds because they are dead and they will act as nutrients to your soil when they break down. You need to get you lawn on a fertilizer and weed control regiment, but only after you get that soil sample.
OK, how do I do a soil sample, is this a test I can do at home, I have a pool test kit that does alkalnity and ph. I'm thinking I could take some soil and put water in it and test that water....
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