Daconil clogging my sprayer's filter

[rlitman]

I spray my roses weekly to control black spot.
One of the fungicides I use is Daconol (chlorothalonil) from a concentrate.
Normally, I shake it up real good, and dilute it into my Roundup 1 gallon sprayer, but recently I tried it in my B+G sprayer, and very quickly I was having trouble getting anything to come out.

When I pulled out the filter in the wand, it was completely encrusted in white chunky dust, that was clearly the stuff you're shaking into suspension in the Daconil.

Is there something wrong with my batch, that's leaving it full of larger chunks?
Should I put it in my paint can shaker, or a blender?
Should I just not use my B+G sprayer with this again?

[RigglePLC]

Sounds like you got an inferior batch of daconil. Won't go through the filter.
Use the old sprayer. AND...
Switch to a better fungicide...something like Compass...its better.

[Think Green]

litman,
Chlorthalonil settles out in the container unless you shake it before applying it to water, and yes, it is viscous and will stop up the screens and strainers. I do not use it anymore!!
It isn't inferior............it is just the composition of the product.

[greendoctor]

Ah, Daconil. The filter before the B&G Extend-A-Ban wand does not have enough surface area to handle chunky liquids like Daconil or Sevin and it is really fine mesh. Clog city. Especially if the product has sat on the shelf and allowed to develop flakes. This is why I do not like products that are formulated as suspensions. I want DGs or wettable powders. I refitted my Extend-A-Ban wand to take the Quick Teejet caps. One of the benefits of that is the ability to use the big 50 mesh strainer right before the nozzle and to change the nozzle easily. The Multi-Jet with two fine fans, one fine stream and the C&C adaptor is really best for indoor pest control. But it is lacking when it comes to T&O treatments. My preferred nozzles for applying to roses and shrubs are the solid cone ceramic disc core assemblies. This also works well for spot applications of RoundUp. I switch to the AI 110 tips for lawn work.

[rlitman]

Yeah, it's been sitting. At the rate I'm using it, a quart bottle should last me over a decade. I guess the flakes get worse over time then, and I'm not alone in my experiences. That's really what I was wondering. I'm back to thinking of using an old junk blender on the concentrate to see what happens.

I'm just a homeowner who appreciates my roses, so I'm hesitant to mess with my extend-a-ban wand that I'm so happy with, but I really despise plastic sprayers that invariably leak around the wand and soak me in chemicals, so if doing this would let me get more use from my B+G, then tell me more.
I see a bunch of parts at Rittenhouse, but don't quite get how it all fits together. Can I do this without losing the no-drip nature of the valve?
If not, I've got a 5 gallon stainless sprayer made for fruit trees which I think I can modify for this use.

Compass, interesting. Before this, I though my Banner Maxx was expensive. Compass and Heritage are in a whole nother league. I don't see the instructional label online, but I'm guessing that the 4oz bottle covers a whole lot of area.
Right now, I'm alternating between Rose Pride (triforine), Banner Maxx and Daconil. I've been trying to find Mancozeb locally, but haven't seen stocked on anyone's shelves.

[ted putnam]

Originally Posted by rlitman

Yeah, it's been sitting. At the rate I'm using it, a quart bottle should last me over a decade. I guess the flakes get worse over time then, and I'm not alone in my experiences. That's really what I was wondering. I'm back to thinking of using an old junk blender on the concentrate to see what happens.

I'm just a homeowner who appreciates my roses, so I'm hesitant to mess with my extend-a-ban wand that I'm so happy with, but I really despise plastic sprayers that invariably leak around the wand and soak me in chemicals, so if doing this would let me get more use from my B+G, then tell me more.
I see a bunch of parts at Rittenhouse, but don't quite get how it all fits together. Can I do this without losing the no-drip nature of the valve?
If not, I've got a 5 gallon stainless sprayer made for fruit trees which I think I can modify for this use.

Compass, interesting. Before this, I though my Banner Maxx was expensive. Compass and Heritage are in a whole nother league. I don't see the instructional label online, but I'm guessing that the 4oz bottle covers a whole lot of area.
Right now, I'm alternating between Rose Pride (triforine), Banner Maxx and Daconil. I've been trying to find Mancozeb locally, but haven't seen stocked on anyone's shelves.

I bought Mancozeb at my local JDL last year. They probably have it.

[greendoctor]

Originally Posted by rlitman

Yeah, it's been sitting. At the rate I'm using it, a quart bottle should last me over a decade. I guess the flakes get worse over time then, and I'm not alone in my experiences. That's really what I was wondering. I'm back to thinking of using an old junk blender on the concentrate to see what happens.

I'm just a homeowner who appreciates my roses, so I'm hesitant to mess with my extend-a-ban wand that I'm so happy with, but I really despise plastic sprayers that invariably leak around the wand and soak me in chemicals, so if doing this would let me get more use from my B+G, then tell me more.
I see a bunch of parts at Rittenhouse, but don't quite get how it all fits together. Can I do this without losing the no-drip nature of the valve?
If not, I've got a 5 gallon stainless sprayer made for fruit trees which I think I can modify for this use.

Compass, interesting. Before this, I though my Banner Maxx was expensive. Compass and Heritage are in a whole nother league. I don't see the instructional label online, but I'm guessing that the 4oz bottle covers a whole lot of area.
Right now, I'm alternating between Rose Pride (triforine), Banner Maxx and Daconil. I've been trying to find Mancozeb locally, but haven't seen stocked on anyone's shelves.

Heritage or Compass will make up to 100 gallons of finished spray per 4 oz. 1 lb would probably be more than a lifetime supply. Have a look at the Quick Teejet 11/16 adapter. This will fit in place of the Multi-Jet nozzle and accept the 50 mesh strainer. You will also need a nozzle and Quick Teejet cap to hold the nozzle. I like a DCER-D3 and DCER-DC33. This produces a fine solid cone spray.

I find it rather interesting that Daconil is still sold over the counter. Mancozeb is far less toxic. Daconil will cause irreversible eye damage and it is a potent allergen. Yet mancozeb is the product bearing a restriction to commercial applicators only.

[rlitman]

Thanks everyone so much for your time.

Just to follow up, I tossed a few nuts and bolts into my container of Daconil concentrate, and ran it in the paint shaker for 10 minutes. After I strained that through a 120mesh filter funnel for spray paint, and tried one more time, it sprayed perfectly, AND the bonus is that unlike every other time I've sprayed Daconil, the white crusty residue wasn't visible on the leaves when it dried. When I looked with a magnifying glass you can still see some, but I'm guessing that the more visible unsightly white traces were from the largest particles left behind.

When I took the multi-jet nozzle off my B+G, it looks like there's an 11/16 thread right there, so I can just add a spray cap, and a nozzle and be good to go (to get me a cone spray, not to get a coarser mesh filter, which looks like it would interfere with the sprayer's valve if I put it behind the nozzle), and I also found the spray adapter that I can add to my 5 gallon tree sprayer's 1/8NPT so I can use the large 50 mesh filter on that, fill it with Daconil mix, and spray away.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I think I may just keep that 5 gallon filled with fungicide, and roll it out every few weeks as needed.