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  #41  
Old 02-20-2013, 02:09 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
If you know another way the suggested 270 degree nozzles would have been placed, let us know.
I don't know, that's why I've used a "four poster" design and a multiple program or cycle and soak to get deep watering without runoff.
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  #42  
Old 02-20-2013, 02:33 PM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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I could see using three 240-degree nozzles, to even out the overlap.
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  #43  
Old 02-20-2013, 02:38 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is offline
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I still like the multiple Netafim rings.
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  #44  
Old 02-25-2013, 07:35 PM
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Rotor_Tool Rotor_Tool is offline
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Why not use drip (either inline emitter tubing or individual emitters evenly spaced around the treewell)? Why spend the money on spray heads and bubblers? Drip components are cheap, provide a ton of flexibility with emission rates, and can be added on to or deducted from if water requirements change.
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  #45  
Old 02-26-2013, 03:15 AM
Cloud9Landscapes Cloud9Landscapes is offline
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Mike,

I like the idea of using bubbler nozzles on a pop-up head for this project. Consider digging some wells around the trees to assure that they retain water. I personally don't like the Rain Bird 1400 series bubblers and I hate the fact they require a pa-80 adapter to work with a spray head. And after that they stick up.

I much prefer the Hunter bubbler nozzles because they retract into the spray head body like a normal nozzle does. It also protects it and keeps it clean. They are also pressure compensating and come in multiple GPM's
http://www.hunterindustries.com/irri...ubbler-nozzles
If I was doing this I would do two or three .25 or .5 GPM nozzles per tree and set it up as flood irrigation.
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  #46  
Old 02-26-2013, 12:33 PM
Mikegyver Mikegyver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rotor_Tool View Post
Why not use drip (either inline emitter tubing or individual emitters evenly spaced around the treewell)? Why spend the money on spray heads and bubblers? Drip components are cheap, provide a ton of flexibility with emission rates, and can be added on to or deducted from if water requirements change.
I am not a fan of drip. We have used it for years in other ag stuff. For starters drip doesn't handle weedeating well. I'm experienced and try to be careful but I still hit the stuff. It never fails. With that said, I'm not opposed to it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cloud9Landscapes View Post
Mike,

I like the idea of using bubbler nozzles on a pop-up head for this project. Consider digging some wells around the trees to assure that they retain water. I personally don't like the Rain Bird 1400 series bubblers and I hate the fact they require a pa-80 adapter to work with a spray head. And after that they stick up.

I much prefer the Hunter bubbler nozzles because they retract into the spray head body like a normal nozzle does. It also protects it and keeps it clean. They are also pressure compensating and come in multiple GPM's
http://www.hunterindustries.com/irri...ubbler-nozzles
If I was doing this I would do two or three .25 or .5 GPM nozzles per tree and set it up as flood irrigation.
Thanks. I'm still on the fence with it all. My only beef right now (as mentioned before by another poster) is that its a pain to move bubbler heads when the tree gets bigger and the watering requirements change.

So there's no right answer to this question, I guess I need to really weigh the options and pic the best way to go.
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