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Old 05-28-2012, 10:07 PM
Darryl G Darryl G is offline
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Where to you set your anti scalp wheels?

I was just wondering where everyone sets their anti scalp wheels on their mowers. I used to run mine down lower but sometimes they would scuff the turf on turns and on lower cutting heights the deck would be riding on them a good bit. I keep them all the way up now so that they contact now and then but the deck is pretty much suspended at all times. I rely on not putting my machine in a situation where it will scalp...not that hard with a 52 inch deck. I know some guys run them pretty low and actually wear out a set in a season or two. I'm still on my first set on my 10 year old machines.

So where to you set your anti scalp wheels and why?
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Old 05-28-2012, 11:23 PM
orangemower orangemower is offline
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I moved mine down. It's a Scag Tiger Cub with a 61" deck and has a large trim side that sticks out. I can still scalp quite easy with them down. I'm always riding the deck lift pedal. On the TC it doesn't have anti scalp wheels on the back corners of the deck like the Turf Tiger has. I called Metalcraft of Mayville and talked to one of the guys about getting oem brackets raw that they use for the TT and he sent me a set along with wheels and wheel brackets that bolt to the bracket that's welded to the deck. That helped some with the scalping problems I was having. For the most part I'm feathering the lift pedal all the time.

My post count is 1-007 LOL
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:18 AM
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weeze weeze is offline
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i run them all the way up but i mow at 2" down here in the south.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:53 AM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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I set mine so that they are approx. 1/2" above a smooth flat surface like cement, when the deck is set at the HOC I normally cut at. I know that's what the manu suggests, but I do it because that's what works best for me on the properties I cut.

For instance, I had them one hole higher than the manual suggests they should be for a while so that they didn't bump tree roots etc when moving along at a fast clip, but then I started noticing that some of the trees I have to mow around were starting to show distinct rings where the side of the deck closest to the tree was riding up on the higher turf close to the trunk, and causing a step/ring to form where the side of the deck away from the tree was dipping down until the gauge wheels on that side finally made contact with the ground. This was/is while mowing around some rather large maples that have turf tapering up towards the tree approx 3-5" higher than the surrounding turf level. Now that the gauge wheels are set at the 1/2" above the ground position, that ring/step problem no longer exists. I keep my center roller/gauge wheels at the highest position so that they don't leave a mark in the grass running down the center of the stripe like a Walker does with the single tail wheel, because I hate that look.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:56 AM
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Turf Commando Turf Commando is offline
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The point of anti scalp is to prevent deck from catching uneven surface. If your anti scalp wheels spend more time rolling then idle there's a problem.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:59 AM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turf Commando View Post
The point of anti scalp is to prevent deck from catching uneven surface. Just position them low enough to keep things rolling. If your anti scalp wheels spend more time rolling then idle there's a problem.Posted via Mobile Device
That's not correct, because they will roll simply from contacting/dragging the grass blades themselves without actually touching the ground. The gauge wheels on every mower I have ever owned has done that.
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:32 AM
Darryl G Darryl G is offline
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Yeah, mine roll even when all the way up just from contacting the grass. Even all the way up they are still below the deck a little. I just found myself doing more turf damage with them than they were preventing.
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Old 05-29-2012, 08:04 PM
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Turf Commando Turf Commando is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridin' Green View Post
That's not correct, because they will roll simply from contacting/dragging the grass blades themselves without actually touching the ground. The gauge wheels on every mower I have ever owned has done that.
Then your mowing to low.
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Old 05-30-2012, 12:50 AM
Darryl G Darryl G is offline
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I think what Ridin' Green is saying is that the wheels will rotate even if they don't actually touch the ground just from running through the grass. I know mine will and I have them all the way up and never mow at under 2.5 inches.
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:13 AM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darryl gesner View Post
I think what Ridin' Green is saying is that the wheels will rotate even if they don't actually touch the ground just from running through the grass. I know mine will and I have them all the way up and never mow at under 2.5 inches.
That's exactly what I am saying.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Turf Commando
Then your mowing to low.
I am definitely not mowing too low, especially for Michigan weather/grass conditions. Generally I mow at 3" in the spring, then move to 3.5" as things get warmer during the summer, than back down to 3" in fall. If you re-read some of my other posts here, you'll see where I said how I set my guage wheels, and why. I NEVER set them to carry any deck, regardless of brand, but when they are set where they need to be to prevent scalping etc, they will rotate from contact with the grass blades alone. I know a lot of guys just move them to the highest setting. Many, if not most LCO's here around me do it, but I can always see where their deck has dipped around trees, or when going through low spots in the turf. That looks very unprofessional IMO.
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