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Old 06-17-2012, 08:07 PM
PatrickGSR94 PatrickGSR94 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 32
Echo SRM-210 won't start, tried everything I can think of

Hello all, first post.

I have an Echo SRM-210 trimmer that has been great for many seasons. It used to belong to my dearly departed grandfather, who worked on and repaired small engines for a good 10-15 years after retiring from the fire department.

The trimmer worked fine all last season after replacing a broken recoil starter cord. Now this season the thing just refuses to start. I have tried many things, including the following:

- bypassed engine stop switch, no change.
- replaced dirty air filter, old spark plug, old fuel filter.
- replaced torn primer bulb (wouldn't pull up any fuel)
- checked for spark, there is (got shocked in the process!)
- checked compression, got it up to 120 psi.
- removed muffler, no visible scoring or scratching on piston
- replaced fuel with fresh 93-octane mixed 1:50 with 2-cycle oil and about 1/2 ounce of Sta-bil in the 1-gallon container

Echo recommends 89-octane fuel or better, but I was probably using 87 octane before now. Also the fuel sat in the tank all winter, which is why I drained it and replaced with the freshly mixed 93-octane.

After many attempts to start, I noticed the spark plug is still bone dry. I don't notice any fuel smell coming from the cylinder. Could my carb be gunked up? Would one of those Zama rebuild kits be the answer? My carb says Zama RB 5 on it.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated!
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:12 PM
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Patriot Services Patriot Services is online now
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Sounds like the carb is gummed up. Tear it down and blast every port with carb cleaner. Or you can get a new carb for 50 bucks.
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:40 PM
PatrickGSR94 PatrickGSR94 is offline
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Yeah new carb is what I'd like to avoid. $63.25 from Plano Power Equipment.

So you think I should hold off on the rebuild kit and try to just clean it all out first?
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Old 06-17-2012, 08:53 PM
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easy-lift guy easy-lift guy is offline
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Check the fule line in side the fuel tank. Sometimes that can get kinked and this can prevent fuel from reaching the carb.
easy-lift guy
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Old 06-17-2012, 09:01 PM
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dutch1 dutch1 is online now
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If you're going to tear down the carb and clean it, you might as well spend the
$10-15 for a carb kit and do the job properly. You didn't mention checking the fuel lines, particularly the suction line from the tank filter to the carb.

From what you have indicated, it's fairly obvious you have a fuel supply issue.
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Old 06-17-2012, 11:12 PM
PatrickGSR94 PatrickGSR94 is offline
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After replacing the primer bulb and putting fuel in the tank, I pressed the bulb and it easily filled with fuel. So wouldn't that indicate that the fuel supply hose if flowing freely?
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:24 AM
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dutch1 dutch1 is online now
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- replaced torn primer bulb (wouldn't pull up any fuel)

Sorry, apparently I misunderstood the above statement. I assumed you meant that it wouldn't pull any fuel after the primer bulb was replaced and further, I didn't see any comment that indicated the primer bulb was filling.

If you're getting fuel through the return line, then you most likely have a blockage in the carb itself, inlet needle is stuck, or the pump and metering diagphrams have hardened sufficiently that it won't pump or meter fuel.

Just a couple of thoughts.
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Old 06-18-2012, 12:25 AM
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Outlawn Outlawn is offline
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Location: San Angelo, TX
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Feel the grommet that hold all the lines in the fuel tank. If it's soft, it's a safe bet that ur fuel lines need replacing. I had to replace the lines on my 210 at the beginning of this season. It would idle, but not rev. Check the lines and then if all else fails, pull the carb and rebuild. Make sure to clean all metal very well and make sure needle sits flush when it's down. Clean all ports, and try to not get carb cleaner on rubber gaskets. Good luck!
What if the hokey pokey really IS what it's all about?!

AMSoil Dealer
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Old 06-18-2012, 01:46 AM
biodale biodale is offline
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Location: Richland, Washington
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Why are you spending so much time and effort on this machine. If it won't start after 2 pulls either take it in to get it fixed at your dealer or buy a new one. The dealers charge so much it might not be worth it even if it is fixable. Keep your equipment in better shape. You said you replaced the fuel with fresh fuel this spring. Why didn't you drain the fuel and then run it until the carb was dry and it stopped running? Then it would start in the spring and not have a gummed up carb. When I winterize my handhelds I put a new primer bulb in every one. The equipment needs to run well to make you money. When you are working, making money like you should, you will make enough money to buy one in a day. Keep your equipment in good shape, use it carefully, and when it stops running through it away and get a new one that will be reliable.
Have a spare that the can swap out and then you fix the old one when you have the time.
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Old 06-18-2012, 02:22 AM
PatrickGSR94 PatrickGSR94 is offline
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So much time and effort? Because I can't afford $200 for another trimmer. Plus I'm a DIY person and fix pretty much everything myself. I don't run a business, this is the trimmer for my yard.

I've never done any sort of winterizing procedures on my trimmer or my Honda push mower. The Honda push mower is pretty much the epitome of reliability - leave the tank full of fuel thru winter with stabilizer, change oil at beginning of season, starts on the first time every time even at the beginning of the season. And it's nearly TWENTY-TWO years old!

Yes, I know I probably should not have left fuel in the trimmer over winter. Actually if I ever get this one running I'll likely be draining it after every use as I heard the ethanol in fuel these days can do a number on these carbs, also.

Just ordered a Zama carb rebuild kit, should be here later this week. Hopefully this will do the trick so I won't have to keep borrowing my father-in-law's trimmer.
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