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#1
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Best fungicide Brand?
I don't do much fertilization for any lawns except my own and I was wondering who makes the most effective Fungicide? My lawn gets brown-patch fungus really bad every year during the hot summer months. Any help on how I can rid my lawn of this is much appreciated!
Thanks! |
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#2
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It would be nice if we knew where you live and which turf you are tending? Fairfax station could be Europe, Canada, or Virginia.
__________________
We all are merely gleaners from the masters who were here before us. |
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#3
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How big is the lawn? The best products --for instance--Heritage comes in golf course or acre size packages. And the cost is steep, real steep.
For home lawns or small jobs--you may need to use an Ortho, Bayer or Scotts product, immunox, Bayleton and propoconizole come to mind. Be sure to read up on local information on controlling brown patch. We don't have the same diseases around here, but I have heard (on here) that you want to avoid fertilizer in hot weather, avoid water after 5 pm, and perhaps overseed with a disease resistant type of fescue. http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/PDFFil...lina_Lawns.pdf http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/plantpath/e...Landscapes.htm |
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#4
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Tall Fescue. I am in Northern Virginia. My lawn is a little larger than half an acre I believe.
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#5
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Quote:
You've got to be able to apply the fungicide properly. I use 4 gallons of water per 1000sq ft of turf. So you have got to have proper equipment to do that. A fungicide such as Daconil [Chlorothalonil] (Manicure from John Deere Landscapes) is a folliar type and needs to dry on the leaves along with a good surfactant (MSO) to open the grass blades to accept the Daconil. Along with the Daconil a good systemic non strobin fungicide is needed. the Strobins (class 13 I think) are not effective on brown patch. Cleary's 3336[Thiophanate] would be the first to use. If the fungus is really active, reapply in 14 days. Mix both of these and apply. Remember to let it dry and then irrigate the lawn in about 1-2 days after. Do not mow for three days after the application. Hold your fertilize until later when it is cool. If you don't have the capability of applying enough to really get the fungicide down to the roots or covering the plant crown, I would hire a pro in your area that has the equipment. He might be a better bargain than buying these expensive chemicals. However, I would insist on knowing what he is applying and how much he is putting down. Some of these so-called pros are flying by the seat of their pants and only hoping for results. Check to see if he is a licensed pro. We have some good people on here that might be in your area. Isn't Fairfax to the west of DC?
__________________
We all are merely gleaners from the masters who were here before us. |
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#6
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isnt there any time of granular stuff I can get from John Deere Landscapes that could help? I am not sure where I could get the chemicals mentioned above.
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#7
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Well, the best would depend on what you are trying to control.
Have you tried an organic fert program? |
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#8
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If you must use a granular, I have had good success with Disarm G on brown patch in TTTF.
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#9
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Don't want to step on anyone, however a granular has to be put down way before a fungus is established. Granulars must be activated into the soil, penetrate, then be taken up by the plant. By then if already infested the fungus has spread more and more and a viscous cycle has begun. A practice of applying a fungicide during the last of April-Mid October monthly (Coastal) generally keeps a lot of brown patch away. Even then it is applied as a systemic and folliar by spraying. You might have to wait until some others get in to answer the granular fungicides. Sorry I couldn't help.
__________________
We all are merely gleaners from the masters who were here before us. |
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#10
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Spraying is no problem as long as I could put it in a back-pack sprayer or attach it to a hose.
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