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  #141  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:21 PM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
I have seen time and time again how a good fertility program produces immediate as well as long term results. I have also seen a compost topdressing produce immediate results. Neither way is wrong especially if they are utilized under the right circumstances. I do feel foolish adding more organic matter to soil that is running 10-14% OM when there are other issues actually causing the problems. Most of my problems have nothing to do with OM content,
There is little need to add compost merely as a organic amendment if your soils have 10-14% OM. Work with the SOM you have. That said, the vast majority of soil people will see doesn't have anywhere close to that amount of SOM. Additionally there are other possible benefits that can be gained with a compost topdressing program.
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  #142  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:24 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Cost to benefit ratio does not work out. That is why I focus on and get results from addressing other factors.
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  #143  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:31 PM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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I suppose I will just have to go pull a sample of the crap we start with in a new development.
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  #144  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:38 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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I would be a fool not to pull soil tests. That would be a good move on your part. That way you would know exactly which way to take the soil. I have seen people mess up by putting dolomite lime on alkaline soil already too high in magnesium, for example. Or using acidifying fertilizer components on a soil of pH 5. Get a test done.
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  #145  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:49 PM
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Think Green Think Green is offline
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Guys,
I agree with doing the soil sample first, but since i am in a agricultural area......500 samples are going into the state daily.......turnaround time is uncomfortably 3 weeks for results. Do all of you wait this long and then start on weeds that is out of control and to start a fertilizer regimen. I may run a sample for the fall and winter time before adding lime.....this will allow me plenty of lead time....but in all reality this isn't practical. The cost for doing basic soil sampling is free from the state.but my time isn't free. The customer will get the bill for my cell phone trouble........drive time to pull the core sample and taking it to the extension service.
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  #146  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:52 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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I use a private lab represented by my fertilizer vendor. 10 business day turnaround and comprehensive results. I can get a cheaper test from the university. but they are incomplete and take longer.
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  #147  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:53 PM
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Think Green Think Green is offline
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I can guarantee that after this seasons drought spell, we will see even more depleted soils from baked, leached, compacted sediments. We have 3/4 inch cracks in the ground now.......this will only bake deeper and reconfigure the structure. I can't see top dressing soils at this time unless you can add water to keep things semi-saturated for microbes and worms to survive.
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  #148  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:53 PM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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Originally Posted by greendoctor View Post
I would be a fool not to pull soil tests. That would be a good move on your part. That way you would know exactly which way to take the soil. I have seen people mess up by putting dolomite lime on alkaline soil already too high in magnesium, for example. Or using acidifying fertilizer components on a soil of pH 5. Get a test done.
I just wanted to show you the much we start with
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  #149  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:54 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is offline
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Originally Posted by Duekster View Post
I juist wanted to show you the much we start with
Can't scare me. I have soil that kills plants.
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  #150  
Old 07-01-2012, 10:55 PM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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Originally Posted by Think Green View Post
I can guarantee that after this seasons drought spell, we will see even more depleted soils from baked, leached, compacted sediments. We have 3/4 inch cracks in the ground now.......this will only bake deeper and reconfigure the structure. I can't see top dressing soils at this time unless you can add water to keep things semi-saturated for microbes and worms to survive.
The ground is already open, just mulch it and let the much break down over the summer.
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