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Old 07-08-2012, 01:00 PM
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I would have thought about a booster, but the property size points more towards increasing the supply, and better to go all in on a well, maybe with an advanced pump, that could work with larger zones in the future.
  #92  
Old 07-08-2012, 01:21 PM
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A lot of areas will not permit a well if served by city water. I still think the OP has to get a grasp on his supply volume, pressure can be dealt with, but gpm cannot unless the supply can be increased with a larger meter, piping, etc. www.betterwaterind.com/flowmeter.html
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Old 07-08-2012, 01:53 PM
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Lots of shallow wells went in during the early 60's drought, and deep wells too. Only later on did towns start getting protective, especially those with their own well-water systems. Indeed, I tried to talk one municipality into letting me dig a meter pit curbside, in order to tee into the very-long 3/4-inch copper supply line, so as to get a better flow. They weren't going for anything outside the box, and when I suggested the homeowners might seek to drill a deep well if they couldn't get the curbside meter, the town response was a calm absolute "No they won't."
  #94  
Old 07-08-2012, 02:04 PM
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Even if a well was permitted (doubtful), there would be the little issue of a Reduced-Pressure Backflow Assembly needed. In a lot of areas, an RP is also required for a booster pump and any sort of fertilizer injection into the system.
  #95  
Old 07-08-2012, 02:11 PM
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Can you draw from surface waters in New York? Looks like there could be a lake or a river in the background but may just be something else in the pic.
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  #96  
Old 07-08-2012, 02:51 PM
turbosl2 turbosl2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FIMCO-MEISTER View Post
Water the root zone you have not the root zone you think you should have. A-1 in my opinion is right. Watering 45 minutes in sandy soil as you describe your situation being is not the way I'd go about it. Get a Lincoln moisture meter from forestry products. Water 45 minutes and take a moisture reading. Do that every hour and you will find the next optimal time to water. Then start cutting back on the amount of water being applied until your initial moisture reading of the root zone shows the sweet spot amount in which you water the root zone but don't waste water that is just infiltrating below the root zone. Might also want to consider a fertilizer injection system that puts out a small amount of fertilizer with every irrigation. right now you are in a yo yo situation. You need to eliminate as much of the yo yo you can. Learn to do a cats cradle. (applause for weak allegory of the week)

I'd find a free source of compost and start a regular application program.
I will give this a try. I think its a great idea. If i could cut back the zone times it is possible to water more frequently, such as in the AM, then again maybe at dinner time. Right now i dont water at dinner because of all the issues about fungas since the grass would be wet all night. right now at 40mins a zone its a must to break the system into two parts (one day front, the other back). The compost is just way to much work. Noone that i know would even try to do anything with almost 2 acres. I dont turn the sprinklers on until end of may, june 1. The system seems to keep the grass to hold its own while everyone else around here is burnt and dormant, unless they have shade or all weeds, the weeds seem to keep it green.

I will lookup that moisture meter and order it up.

I know it sounded like a good idea to just throw some topsoil down but noone in there right mind will spend that kind of money, you just have to live with what you got. And i think with your idea of the moisture meter it will prob bring me to watering totally different.

How far do grass roots usually penetrate? I was told that every other day long watering per zone would force them to grow deeper in search of water. Whatever that means
  #97  
Old 07-08-2012, 02:56 PM
turbosl2 turbosl2 is offline
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Originally Posted by AI Inc View Post
You were told that by someone who knows nothing about soil structure. Either ammend the soil or water it the way it needs to be watered.
I would rather water it the way its suppose to. I am new to this and trying to keep a positive outlook. I have no issues with changing the watering schedule to what will work better.

With the pointers everyone just needs to remember 16zones, at 20 mins a zone were talking over 5hrs to do the whole system. I still have not had a clear answer if watering at night is good or bad. Right now i start at 3:15am and have not seen an issue yet. The red thread appeared in may, and mostly in areas that trugreen did not fertilize properly. They had a guy walk the property with the little wand to do it. The recent application they brought a permagreen ride on unit that applied it much more even. Any area that was underfertilized seemed to be weedy and develop red thread. Its just starting to grow out
  #98  
Old 07-08-2012, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
Even if a well was permitted (doubtful), there would be the little issue of a Reduced-Pressure Backflow Assembly needed. In a lot of areas, an RP is also required for a booster pump and any sort of fertilizer injection into the system.
At least in this part on NY RPZs are not required on wells unless connected to a street supply and then it is on the street main. But this is Suffolk county though.

if it was only for irrigation and the soil is as sandy as he says he could "wash down" a casing. In Maryland my brother washed down a 40' 4" casing with 10' of screen using two trash pumps with bentonite. He put in a 1 hp sub and got 18 gpm at 60.
  #99  
Old 07-08-2012, 03:00 PM
turbosl2 turbosl2 is offline
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Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
Unless there are some bargain water rates I haven't heard about, that lawn could easily drink up over a thousand dollars a season in water bills. At some point, even a five thousand dollar well is going to pay for itself.
You are correct, its about 2500 gallons a day to do half the lawn, since i have it split in front one day, back the other. I have the well parts. I have two types of pumps, 3 points. 40gallon bladder tank...etc. I just have not put it in.
  #100  
Old 07-08-2012, 03:01 PM
turbosl2 turbosl2 is offline
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Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
you do realize that a Maxipaw will spray 35 feet with only 25 psi at the head, and with effective coverage, too
I like this idea, i am ordering 2 of these to test them out.
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