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  #131  
Old 07-08-2012, 10:51 PM
turbosl2 turbosl2 is offline
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I will do this, i need to order the pitot tube gauge to do this.
Thanks guys
  #132  
Old 07-08-2012, 10:54 PM
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1idejim 1idejim is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosl2 View Post
I will do this, i need to order the pitot tube gauge to do this.
Thanks guys
good luck
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  #133  
Old 07-08-2012, 11:21 PM
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FIMCO-MEISTER FIMCO-MEISTER is offline
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The bottom line is you want us to ignore the fact your soil sux and still solve your problems. That's no different than putting a 2" slab on clay and wondering how you can prevent foundation problems. Irrigation can only go so far but it doesn't solve a bad soil situation. My suggestions are trying to get your irrigation system to do things your soil should be doing for you. Quit thinking there is a panacea for your soil situation. There isn't nor will there ever be.
  #134  
Old 07-09-2012, 12:18 AM
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White Gardens White Gardens is offline
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From a landscapers perspective.

I'd xeroscape about 60% or better of the lawn. Use a minimal amount of highly drought tolerant plantings and re-configure the irrigation system to hit those zones.

Then use the other 40% of the lawn to amend and establish turf areas for the kiddos to play around in.

I know that the OP is beyond that point, but to me it's all about balance. Not only creating your traditional green-spaces but other points of interest on the property without breaking the bank for one, and over-using water resources for another.

Just my two cents I guess.


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  #135  
Old 07-09-2012, 04:12 AM
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Wet_Boots Wet_Boots is offline
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Originally Posted by Kiril View Post
..........If you aren't going to believe the chart, then you can't believe any charts. FYI, I do have systems that are in the 20's operating pressure. Further the OP hasn't even confirmed nozzle pressure so how is it you know what it is?...........
Given the spray radii, the head pressures can be inferred. You show us video of your install of 5004 heads running at 25 psi head pressure.

Of course I don't believe in charts. It only takes a few liar charts to make anyone realize that. Plastic gear drive rotors were born in the era of impact heads, and they would put anything on a chart to make it look like the new heads could replace the old ones.

Would you stake your reputation on a Rainbird Falcon head having a 59-foot radius at 40 psi? Good luck with that. Charts lie. Get over it.
  #136  
Old 07-09-2012, 05:25 AM
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AI Inc AI Inc is online now
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Originally Posted by Mike Leary View Post
Not around here, the State wants to know how much you're taking, how deep you're going and what you're doing with it. There are restrictions and heavy paperwork is required it pull off a well, especially for irrigation.
Round here no permit needed unless your pulling more then 54,000 gal a day.
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  #137  
Old 07-09-2012, 06:41 AM
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jvanvliet jvanvliet is offline
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Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
There are good lawns on uber-sandy soil, but you have to bomb them with water. The OP should look into getting a well. A one-inch mainline can work fine with 12-gpm zones
Maybe it can; I don't think it's the best arrangement for a 1.5 acre site.

A well will work, or a seperate water (turbo) meter for irrigation, sized to the supply line.
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  #138  
Old 07-09-2012, 07:13 AM
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jvanvliet jvanvliet is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbosl2 View Post
Your advice wasnt worth $2. Anyone can beat up on something they didnt install and recommend ridiculous ideas. To me a person that can solve a problem in a way other than saying you need all new, or you need this, its only 200k dollars worth of topsoil...etc, you system is junk...etc knows what they are talking about.

At least some of you recognize where to draw the line, others....idk. Time to welcome yourself to the real world (you know, the one thats outside and not behind a computer.) I probably accomplished more in the last 3 yrs than some of you will in a lifetime.

To the others on here that are not cocky a-holes thanks for the advice, i do appreciate it.

I will take your recomendations on the heads and watering schedule and make the best of it. I will ask the appropriate questions on another forum regarding some watering schedules, and look into the moisture meter.

I think its time to shut it down, to many pissants now.
Well now, there's gratitude for you...

I'm surprised somebody didn't show him how to change the laws of physics or the dynamics of botany and entomology because, other than the suggestions here, that's the only way nimrod is going to achieve his goal.

The fact that he boasts about having put sod down directly on top of "pure sand" and the Mickey Mouse rigging of his sprinklers suggest a level of supreme narcisism and incompetence of elephantine proportions.

I love people who get good suggestions and then reject them all, and the people who offer them, because they don't meet their desire to overcome significant and fundamental design flaws for no money.
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  #139  
Old 07-09-2012, 09:04 AM
jabbo jabbo is offline
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After reading through all these pages all I can say is "wow". I think this thread went from alright to bad and then to horrible. I don't think the OP has debunked all the recommendations that have been metioned, he is just in no mood(physically or financially) to carry most of them out. As far as the sandy soil, I know exactly where he is coming from. Although I'm from a different zone than he is, I have had to deal with it. And really after 12 years of good centipede grass, I'm starting to get some darker dirt in the top 3-4 inches from all the thatch breaking down. I also have to run my system ALOT especially when it has not rained in 2 weeks and the daytime highs are in the 90's or higher. But I am on a deep well and get by. I have a 1.5 hp submersible and get right at 13 gpm at 55psi at well. I only have 3-4 heads per zone. 1" mainline and laterals. 3/4" hunter swing joints. Most heads are pgp with #5-90,#6 or 7-180, and # 8 or 9-360 except where I have added some pgp ultras. But I have since changed all the red nozzles out with the blue ones. I water everyday!!! I have to in order to keep the top from drying out. I know that this is not suppose to be the way to water but it works! I do get some funges since it is some humid down here but no enough to cause a problem. I have 12 zones counting my drip zone for flower beds. My heads will throw 30-35 feet with the bigger nozzles. I really like the pgp ultras! They cover good even up close as long as they are hitting the other head....

I think that if the OP had not spaced the heads so far apart he would have had head to head coverage. I also know most of you know this already. But I'm with you guys and think he has only 2 good options. Either add more heads to make up the lost distance or drill a well and run a 1 1/2" or 2" mainline... Hope this helps.
  #140  
Old 07-09-2012, 09:05 AM
Kiril Kiril is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
Given the spray radii, the head pressures can be inferred.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
You show us video of your install of 5004 heads running at 25 psi head pressure.
Keep dreaming boots.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
Of course I don't believe in charts.
Then why are you posting charts as proof of concept that your idea will work?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
Would you stake your reputation on a Rainbird Falcon head having a 59-foot radius at 40 psi? Good luck with that.
Would you stake your reputation that the maxipaw is going to effectively irrigate an area with a head spacing of 47 feet and nozzle pressure in the 20's? Good luck with that.
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