Rotor Head Hookup question

[Duekster]

Originally Posted by Mike Leary

This thread has pretty much run out of pavement: screwing around with this and that may give someone something to do, only to have it fail, again. It took me many years to say, "start over, get a decent design and enjoy your landscape." 'Nuff said.

So you are out of ideas?

Trouble shooting is fun, some times you have to fix things installed wrong.

[Mike Leary]

Originally Posted by Duekster

So you are out of ideas?

Trouble shooting is fun, some times you have to fix things installed wrong.

To a point.

[Duekster]

Originally Posted by Mike Leary

To a point.

As long as you are consistant, That is all I ask.

[Wet_Boots]

Dudes, it's probably a flag lot, and if you want to 'double' the city water supply, you would spend thousands on a new tap and supply line.

There would be some sense in looking to switch to well water. That would also cost thousands, but the water supply would be all fixed up, as long as filtration is added to keep sand out of the system.

[Duekster]

Loop the main

[turbosl2]

Originally Posted by 1idejim

there is a direct relationship between the nozzle size/gpm and the supply/pressure.

if you have 50 psi at the head (which you haven't verified) the 5000 with a 2.0 nozzle will throw 37 ft @ 2.25 gpm (averaged) and the 6504 will throw 41 ft @ 3.7 gpm.

it makes no sense to increase your demand almost 1.5 gpm to gain gain 2 feet in distance from the head when you may be able to modify the layout and head spacing.

if your supply estimate is correct you can reduce the nozzle size as dana suggested and adjust the head placement to acheive a more harmonious outcome.
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I hear what your saying but modifiying the layout is just not an option. Its to many heads for me and i dont have the time or will to do it. pressure is 55PSI static. I cannot give you guys a pressure at the head without a pitot tube. The only thing i can do is what was suggested by putting a guage on the backflow preventer and take pressure/flow data as i open the the sprinklers, or better yet. I could disconnect the manifold and use the ball valve on the backflow and get data from closed (static) to full open, then plot the curve.

Judging by what i am throwing with the 3 -5GPM nozzles i think i am between 25-30psi at the head

[turbosl2]

Originally Posted by Wet_Boots

Dudes, it's probably a flag lot, and if you want to 'double' the city water supply, you would spend thousands on a new tap and supply line.

There would be some sense in looking to switch to well water. That would also cost thousands, but the water supply would be all fixed up, as long as filtration is added to keep sand out of the system.

You are close, its a 7acre lot where i set the house from the road a long distance. 1.75acres are cleared and personally i dont think the layout is bad, i think it can better but distance is not the only function i am concerned with. I need to put down alot of precipication (In/Hr). There is NO shade and i get full sun from sun up to sun down, add that to pure sand and it seems there is not enough water in the world to keep it green and from drying out.

What my goal was asking for your guys help is to determine how to get better close in watering (a more even stream), this is what led to the questions about the distance (the issue with the 25' was due to large of nozzles in the heads), and what rotors seem better. I dont think i have a bad pressure.

If its worth something i will spend the time to take readings like i described before (just tell me if i should do it with the system disconnected adn just vary the ball valve coming out of the backflow from closed to open and record the pressure and flow from the meter.

Thanks, i appreciate the advice so far

[Wet_Boots]

if you are on anything close to the kind of moraine soil I see, courtesy of the ice age, you would eventually get back all the money you invest in drilling a well.

[turbosl2]

Originally Posted by Wet_Boots

the thing for the OP to do is to get a few of the Maxipaws, along with the extra nozzles, and a marlex ell for each head, and more swing pipe and swing pipe couplings

convert a zone of two or three heads to Maxipaws, and experiment with the yellow and tan nozzles, and the low-pressure arm setting

I am looking to order 2 Maxipaws and 2 6504 rotors. I plan to swap out 2 of my full circle zones where i have 5GPM nozzles and right now getting about 38' and see how they perform, not just in distance but with close in watering. I never used the 6504s but the three nozzles look to be a much better design, it seems only logical that if you split it up into 3 stages you can meter it much better.

[greenmonster304]

I think you are missing the point. If you don't have the right pressure you won't get close in watering because the water dosent "atomize" with low pressure regardless of the head unless its an impact head. Don't wast your money on the 6505s the same thing will happen. The rain curtain works great with 45 lbs.
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