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  #11  
Old 08-14-2012, 09:45 PM
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inzane inzane is online now
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i'm in paulding county myself, i have the same issues in my front yard. thankfully we have had alot of rain here this week! when i tried to scalp mine down it kinda decided not to rain for a while, mine bounced back pretty good in a month, but much thinner (i had tried to go low in july). I think your lawn may green up again, bermuda starts to go dormant around october here, make sure it gets water if it doesnt rain. who does your lawn apps? i know a good guy that works in that area.. if you want PM me
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  #12  
Old 08-15-2012, 08:43 AM
NEwhere1 NEwhere1 is offline
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Originally Posted by inzane View Post
i'm in paulding county myself, i have the same issues in my front yard. thankfully we have had alot of rain here this week! when i tried to scalp mine down it kinda decided not to rain for a while, mine bounced back pretty good in a month, but much thinner (i had tried to go low in july). I think your lawn may green up again, bermuda starts to go dormant around october here, make sure it gets water if it doesnt rain. who does your lawn apps? i know a good guy that works in that area.. if you want PM me
I have had Lawn Dr. come out once. But i'm thinking I'm going to just do it myself. I'm already spending so much time mowing, weedeating edging, spreading pine straw and blowing, what's a little fert. spreading and chem spraying?

OF COURSE, one might say "clearly you need a professionals help" after looking at my lawn, but all of the calenders I've seen for Bermuda lawn care lay it out pretty clearly as to what needs to be done.
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  #13  
Old 08-15-2012, 11:01 AM
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inzane inzane is online now
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what do they charge for a lawn that size? a guy i know used them one time too because they had a $29.00 first app. nothing wrong with doing it yourself, its interesting stuff, not that hard. i like the walter reeves calanders myself. also, there is alot of good info on here if you ever need it, i know i've learned alot here myself.

weekly mowing is just not cutting it the past few weeks. i mowed my bermuda saturday, and i'm about to get out there now and mow it again. my lawn is pretty un-even as well, much worse than yours probally. i gave up trying to keep it shorter, gonna spend more time working on others lawns rather than my own. i got some pictures on another thread http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...+practice+lawn

your back yard looks awesome, can't wait to see the pictures when you get everything sorted out with the cutting height, if it was me i'd take it back to where you had it and wait to spring to try to get it lower.. august usually gets pretty hot and dry here, i remember my lawn was toast by end of august last year. but thank god we've had alot of rain latley.. frequent mowings is the best way to keep bermuda looking good, like duekster was saying.
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  #14  
Old 08-15-2012, 11:25 AM
NEwhere1 NEwhere1 is offline
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Originally Posted by inzane View Post
what do they charge for a lawn that size? a guy i know used them one time too because they had a $29.00 first app. nothing wrong with doing it yourself, its interesting stuff, not that hard. i like the walter reeves calanders myself. also, there is alot of good info on here if you ever need it, i know i've learned alot here myself.

weekly mowing is just not cutting it the past few weeks. i mowed my bermuda saturday, and i'm about to get out there now and mow it again. my lawn is pretty un-even as well, much worse than yours probally. i gave up trying to keep it shorter, gonna spend more time working on others lawns rather than my own. i got some pictures on another thread http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...+practice+lawn

your back yard looks awesome, can't wait to see the pictures when you get everything sorted out with the cutting height, if it was me i'd take it back to where you had it and wait to spring to try to get it lower.. august usually gets pretty hot and dry here, i remember my lawn was toast by end of august last year. but thank god we've had alot of rain latley.. frequent mowings is the best way to keep bermuda looking good, like duekster was saying.
I think the charge was $55 ish, not exactly sure wife paid that bill. I think the plan is they come out 8 times a year. Thanks for the compliments, we've been saving for YEARS to finally get everything done. Other than upkeep my only contribution to the backyard has been planting all the plants, still have 1 more palm to go but i'm so sick of digging 3' wide by 2' deep Next spring i want to do some more palms i just want to see how these handle the winter, they are supposed to be good down to -5 F depending on which person/website/book you believe.

I agree i should probably have waited till spring to lower the lawn, but I am impatient and wanted to start using the new to me reel mower. Side benefit is i can now see the dog crap and pick it up.....

According to the calenders I need to fertilize, little concerned that since i've stressed the lawn i should skip it.

Peachtree mowers also has this calendar http://www.reelmowers.net/downloads/...gementPlan.pdf
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  #15  
Old 08-15-2012, 11:30 AM
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inzane inzane is online now
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the fertilizer will help it recover, as long as its well irrigated.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NEwhere1 View Post
According to the calenders I need to fertilize, little concerned that since i've stressed the lawn i should skip it.

Peachtree mowers also has this calendar http://www.reelmowers.net/downloads/...gementPlan.pdf
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  #16  
Old 08-16-2012, 09:29 AM
NEwhere1 NEwhere1 is offline
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the fertilizer will help it recover, as long as its well irrigated.
Okay, so I picked up Scott's summerguard yesterday day and applied it last night, then I turned on the irrigation to water it in.

I got a new spreader, Scott's with a side discharge preventer. It also keeps it from spreading back on my feet. This thing is great! My old one i putt a piece of cardboard on the back but this is soooo much nicer. The side preventer works great too so i didn't have to go back and blow all the fert. off the patio or driveway....
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  #17  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:15 AM
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inzane inzane is online now
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i wouldn't water at night though, if you can help it. early morning only. to avoid any fungus problems.

congrats on the new spreader.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NEwhere1 View Post
Okay, so I picked up Scott's summerguard yesterday day and applied it last night, then I turned on the irrigation to water it in.

I got a new spreader, Scott's with a side discharge preventer. It also keeps it from spreading back on my feet. This thing is great! My old one i putt a piece of cardboard on the back but this is soooo much nicer. The side preventer works great too so i didn't have to go back and blow all the fert. off the patio or driveway....
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  #18  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:20 AM
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Chilehead Chilehead is offline
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Following the one-third rule is only part of the mowing equation--mowing frequency is the other. The shorter you want to keep your grass, the more frequent you'll need to mow. If I were you, I would fertilize with a 24-2-6 fertilizer at half the recommended application rate now, and again in four weeks. Irrigate the lawn with 1.5" - 2" of water per week until you see even the low burnt-out spots recover to a height of 3". Keep the lawn at 3" for the remainder of the year, mowing weekly. I understand the limitations of the reel mower, so you may have to use a rotary one, but the key goal for now is lawn HEALTH and STRENGTH gains. A taller bermuda lawn through the winter will also provide better weed resistance. If you are going to keep it shorter next year, don't scalp it until it is fully dormant--late January. I personally don't scalp until late February/early March. By April it will be greening up, and you'll have a "clean slate" to work with. Make sure you apply a chemical for grub prevention in the spring in addition to fertilizer and lawn weed control. Best wishes.
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  #19  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:32 AM
NEwhere1 NEwhere1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chilehead View Post
Following the one-third rule is only part of the mowing equation--mowing frequency is the other. The shorter you want to keep your grass, the more frequent you'll need to mow. If I were you, I would fertilize with a 24-2-6 fertilizer at half the recommended application rate now, and again in four weeks. Irrigate the lawn with 1.5" - 2" of water per week until you see even the low burnt-out spots recover to a height of 3". Keep the lawn at 3" for the remainder of the year, mowing weekly. I understand the limitations of the reel mower, so you may have to use a rotary one, but the key goal for now is lawn HEALTH and STRENGTH gains. A taller bermuda lawn through the winter will also provide better weed resistance. If you are going to keep it shorter next year, don't scalp it until it is fully dormant--late January. I personally don't scalp until late February/early March. By April it will be greening up, and you'll have a "clean slate" to work with. Make sure you apply a chemical for grub prevention in the spring in addition to fertilizer and lawn weed control. Best wishes.
The fertilizer is done, at recommend rate on package. I only watered last night per package directions, i normally irrigate right before dawn.

So if i'm to get it back up to 3" you are of the opinion that i never should have shortened it to begin with at this time of the year i'm guessing.

I have been mowing every 3 days, just mowed it last night. What is green is continuing to mow. If i get down to lawn level and look out across it i can see all the green grass sticking out higher than the brown. If i want to let it grow to 3" i'll have to go back to the rider, which is/was causing scalping issues at 4" due to it's width and yard uneveness (but i can do it if it's best for health of lawn). Was hoping it would recover/be healthy if i just maintained it at current height.

My plan is/has been to scalp and level right before green up in early March, thanks for the validating suggestion.

Do you all think i should do the grub test i've read about, create box with 2x4, place on ground, fill with soap water, then watch grubs climb out of ground and count them?

Should I apply a Halt's type product, crabgrass preventer soon?
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  #20  
Old 08-16-2012, 11:45 AM
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inzane inzane is online now
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as far as the grub test.. yes, because there is no need applying an insecticide if there is not a problem. (but, thats just me!)

mid september or october for winter pre-emergent.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NEwhere1 View Post

Do you all think i should do the grub test i've read about, create box with 2x4, place on ground, fill with soap water, then watch grubs climb out of ground and count them?

Should I apply a Halt's type product, crabgrass preventer soon?
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