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Old 05-03-2015, 09:51 PM
Rcgm Rcgm is offline
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Kawasaki FS600V 18.5 engine problems

Ok I have a 4 year old Wright 36" stander with a Kawasaki 18.5 FS600V. It has always ran fine until a week ago I did notice once a week it would blow white smoke on start up then clear out. The engine started sputtering and popping at low to medium throttle. If I raise it full throttle it would cut and run fine. Once I turned off the blades and idled down it started popping real loud. So I took it to the local mechanic and theey called and said it was done. They performed a carb cleaning. I went to put it on the trailer at the shop and it did the same thing. I went back in and told them. They kept it another day and flushed the fuel system and carb again. It seemed to run a little better but not 100%. It started running real bad yesterday so I took the carb off and went thru it. Found a little stuff in the bowl but not much. I cleaned every hole on that carb pilot jet main jet every thing was cleaned. Put it back together and it sounds and acts the same. What am I missing here? Is the problem deeper than the carb? The exhaust smells rich of fuel so I adjusted the pilot jet with no change to the popping. I am at a loss here thanks.
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Old 05-03-2015, 10:00 PM
Rcgm Rcgm is offline
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Also if anyone knows a good mechanic in Greenwood Indiana or Indianapolis please PM. My local dealer is horrible they always say bad gas because they can't figure out anything.
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  #3  
Old 05-03-2015, 10:23 PM
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unkownfl unkownfl is offline
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Try changing the needle valve in the carb. Sometimes its a needle and seat not sure on that engine. Before taking the carb off see if the exhaust manifold is hot on each port either by spraying some water or a temp gun.
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Old 05-03-2015, 10:56 PM
Uncle Knuckle Uncle Knuckle is offline
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I had a similar case and it turned out to be a failing ignition coil. Sometimes the coil would fire and sometimes not. When the coil was not firing the exhaust had a raw fuel smell since the fuel was not burning in the combustion chamber and there was a popping sound out the exhaust. I don't remember the spec but I measured the primary side of each coil and they had very different ohm readings. My supplier said he has been selling a lot of kawasaki coils due to a high failure rate. Before replacing any parts, measure the resistance of the primary and secondary side of each coil to compare. You can also use insulated pliers to pull off the spark plug wire at the spark plug while the engine is running and compare rpm drop on each side. If it is a coil and it is acting up at the time, one side will usually have a lot less rpm drop compared to the other.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:02 AM
Rcgm Rcgm is offline
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Originally Posted by Uncle Knuckle View Post
I had a similar case and it turned out to be a failing ignition coil. Sometimes the coil would fire and sometimes not. When the coil was not firing the exhaust had a raw fuel smell since the fuel was not burning in the combustion chamber and there was a popping sound out the exhaust. I don't remember the spec but I measured the primary side of each coil and they had very different ohm readings. My supplier said he has been selling a lot of kawasaki coils due to a high failure rate. Before replacing any parts, measure the resistance of the primary and secondary side of each coil to compare. You can also use insulated pliers to pull off the spark plug wire at the spark plug while the engine is running and compare rpm drop on each side. If it is a coil and it is acting up at the time, one side will usually have a lot less rpm drop compared to the other.
When I remove the wire with the engine running on the right I notice no difference in the sound. When I remove the left wire the engine starts to stumble. Sounds like my other engine when the coil started failing but not as bad.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:20 AM
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ilike2mow ilike2mow is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcgm View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Knuckle View Post
I had a similar case and it turned out to be a failing ignition coil. Sometimes the coil would fire and sometimes not. When the coil was not firing the exhaust had a raw fuel smell since the fuel was not burning in the combustion chamber and there was a popping sound out the exhaust. I don't remember the spec but I measured the primary side of each coil and they had very different ohm readings. My supplier said he has been selling a lot of kawasaki coils due to a high failure rate. Before replacing any parts, measure the resistance of the primary and secondary side of each coil to compare. You can also use insulated pliers to pull off the spark plug wire at the spark plug while the engine is running and compare rpm drop on each side. If it is a coil and it is acting up at the time, one side will usually have a lot less rpm drop compared to the other.
When I remove the wire with the engine running on the right I notice no difference in the sound. When I remove the left wire the engine starts to stumble. Sounds like my other engine when the coil started failing but not as bad.
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I would try replacing the coil on the side where it stumbles. I've done a few coils and for the correct air gap I use a business card between the flywheel and the coil. It seems to be a good air gap but not close enough to make the coil rub or hit the flywheel.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:35 AM
Uncle Knuckle Uncle Knuckle is offline
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Originally Posted by Rcgm View Post
When I remove the wire with the engine running on the right I notice no difference in the sound. When I remove the left wire the engine starts to stumble. Sounds like my other engine when the coil started failing but not as bad.
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You found your problem, the right side coil is not producing enough spark. I tell my customers since one coil went bad, the other may not be far behind. They usually agree and have me replace both coils at the same time. Doing so saves the labor of going back in there and prevents the down time. My advice to you: replace both coils while you are in there.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:41 AM
Uncle Knuckle Uncle Knuckle is offline
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Also if anyone knows a good mechanic in Greenwood Indiana or Indianapolis please PM. My local dealer is horrible they always say bad gas because they can't figure out anything.

Once you fix your engine, are you going to go back to your "favorite" local dealer and tell them what you found and how they blew the diagnosis? Maybe if you teach them something they will refund your money. Ask them why they didn't pull the spark plug wires and do a cylinder balance test.
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Old 05-04-2015, 07:46 AM
Uncle Knuckle Uncle Knuckle is offline
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Originally Posted by ilike2mow View Post
I would try replacing the coil on the side where it stumbles.
Just the opposite. When you remove the coil wire from the spark plug and the engine stumbles, it's telling you that cylinder is producing power by burning the fuel. When there is no drop in rpm (stumble), that indicates the defective coil or at least the cylinder that is not producing power.
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Old 05-04-2015, 08:24 AM
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ilike2mow ilike2mow is offline
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Originally Posted by Uncle Knuckle View Post
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Originally Posted by ilike2mow View Post
I would try replacing the coil on the side where it stumbles.
Just the opposite. When you remove the coil wire from the spark plug and the engine stumbles, it's telling you that cylinder is producing power by burning the fuel. When there is no drop in rpm (stumble), that indicates the defective coil or at least the cylinder that is not producing power.
Ok I see.

I agree with replacing both coils
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Honda HRR216VKA Mower
Honda HRS216SDA Mower
Echo SRM-225 String Trimmer
Echo PE-200 Edger
Echo HC-152 Hedge Trimmer
Echo PAS-230 with Articulating hedge trimmer, straight shaft edger, power pruner, and pro torque trimmer
Echo CS-370 Chainsaw
Husqvarna 130-BT Backpack Blower
Stihl Br600 backpack blower
Stihl FS90R Trimmer

Check out my youtube channel for lawn care videos and small engine repair!

https://www.youtube.com/ilike2mow
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