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#31
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Quote:
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#32
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Another thing to check...
When it starts acting up..give it a little choke and see if it improves.. This will richen up the fuel and let you know if you have a lean condition ..and possible intake gasket leak.
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If You Have All The Answers...Except The One You Need...You're Not Trying Hard Enough... Do The Work |
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#33
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Thanks. The plugs looked very clean and normal to me. Not fouled, wet or overly white or anything like that. I tried pulling the choke out a little but it actually makes it slightly worse.
My last resort is the coils. I'll see about checking them with a meter soon. I saw the procedure in the book, but I guess I can measure them one way with just using the meter lead on the plug wire and I assume ground to the engine. If measuring the resistance that way will tell me something, great. It will be easy enough to check. |
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#34
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Measuring resistance that way will get you in the ballpark...close enough..
__________________
If You Have All The Answers...Except The One You Need...You're Not Trying Hard Enough... Do The Work |
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#35
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I actually tried the method of pulling the spark plug wire from the spark plug one at a time while the engine was running. neither one died when pulled seperately. so I am assuming that the coils are not completey bad. Could they still be bad even though I did that test?
__________________
Brian 05' Nissan Titan Crew Cab 5x14 Trailer w/ Gate and Racks John Deere 717a Red Max BCZ2601S Trimmer Red Max EBZ7500 Backpack Blower Stihl FS 210 Chainsaw Poulan Pro Hedge Trimmer Assortment of Hand Tools |
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#36
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Quote:
I like NGK plugs and I use them..... but i have had them go bad and also a bad one from the start. Cant hurt to try. Rob Last edited by taxidermist; 09-12-2012 at 11:28 AM. |
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#37
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I just checked the coils with an Ohm meter with the coils still attached to the engine. From looking at the service manual, the only check I can't do is the check between the kill wire connection and the other terminals.
From my understanding, position A in the illusatration is the part that's grounded to the engine so using the engine itself should get me to that one....and the plug wire is the one marked C in the illustration, correct? So I should be looking at the reading between A & C? If so, I think my readings are fine for the coils. Well within the specs listed in the book which is a range between 14k and 24k, right? I put my notes on my actual readings in the yellow box below. Can you confirm that this looks ok to you too?
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#38
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Your readings are within specs...but...one is at the low limit..and one at the high limit..
I would expect them to be about the same..both being off the same engine... Reading the coils when hot may actually change one or both of these readings into the bad numbers...
__________________
If You Have All The Answers...Except The One You Need...You're Not Trying Hard Enough... Do The Work |
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#39
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I checked it when it was cold. I took it out for a spin again this afternoon into some really thick and tall grass in the field. It sputtered a few seconds after I engaged the blades, but in less than a minute, it was plowing through the grass with no sputtering. You could tell it was stressed (normal sounds of an engine under heavy load), but no sputtering. I'll see what happens over the next few mows and if the sputtering keeps coming back I'll go ahead and do the plugs and coils next.
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#40
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The pro's know best! My kohler magnum MV20, this spring did the same thing. fuel filter, pump, fuel line replaced, cleaned & flushed fuel tank the hole bit. turned out to be the carbs float needle. Replaced the needle ran a couple tanks of sea foam and fuel through the mower, problem went away. I normally store the mower dry during the winter, last year I got lazy just added stabilizer and put her away. This ethanol fuel were being forced to use sucks and wrecks all rubber in our equipments fuel systems.
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