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  #11  
Old 08-22-2012, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Duekster View Post
gray leaf spot that is the problem.
Gray leaf spot can show up from excess rain alone. Don't need nitrogen to do it.
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  #12  
Old 08-22-2012, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Landscape Poet View Post
To a point but my question is why add the N in the height of growing season and add more water if we are experiencing decent rains? IF you have did your spring apps correct your color should be there, naturally the turf will be growing, any color issues at that point should be able to be fixed with a good micro blend IMHO. What I see most common this time of year with the rain fall is light spots in the lawn where it has become chlorotic from the rainfall or some other reason. My PCO sub comes and hits it with a liquid micro package which contains Fe, Mg, Mn and shortly the problem is fixed in most cases. Adding N at this point in the season of any significance does nothing but stress the turf which is already growing like crazy and makes my mower and blowers work harder.


To the OP ...I suggest a more organic fertilizer this time of year like milorganite or Lesco has a great product IMHO for homeowners or those wishing not to spray...it is called Iron Plus.
I have to disagree. I apply slow release granular 4x/year, and the lawns look amazing. I stay at 1lb/N/K, and do not have any fungal issues aside from GLS that will show up from excess rainfall alone. It's the guys over-applying fert that cause issues. I don't overwater either. If its raining, system goes off. Applying in march and then again in oct or so isn't going to cut it IMO. Even the best slow-release ferts will get washed away with the heavy summer rains in 6-8 weeks. I have never had a need to apply liquids to cover up bad areas. Slow-release granular 4x/yr has always worked.
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  #13  
Old 08-22-2012, 11:04 PM
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And on the topic of milorgonite. I agree it is good for color, but it covers 3-K. What if you have a property that is 20-K? Your gonna drop 6 bags at more cost when 2 bags of 20-0-10 will do the job? If done right, applying N in the growing season isn't going to cause that much more growth. Plus milorgonite has no K.
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  #14  
Old 08-23-2012, 06:14 AM
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Originally Posted by diamondlandscaping View Post
Yea true, but why would you apply fert without watering it in??
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I wouldn't, it was for the benefit of the OP.

Also, I wouldn't apply fertilizer in the height of the rainy season for a couple of reasons.

High temperatures, high humidity, high rainfall = accelerated growth, pathogens and insects. (The rain will also wash the beneficial Nitrogen out of the root zone PDQ.)

I know these can be treated with chemicals, but my goal as an earth friendly company is to reduce or eliminate the introduction of chemicals into the environment whenever possible. Moderate and judicious application of Nitrogen fertilizers is a best management practice and part of an integrated program we employ to reduce and limit the application of chemicals; that is to say it is for me.

Unless you are applying a slow release liquid, you are wasting your money on granular, at least I would; my mowers will lift the grass into the cutting deck and with it significant portions of the granular fertilizer. Once in the cutting deck, the encapsulated granules will be broken or crushed rendering them useless as a time released application.

Two slow release liquid applications annually is usually adequate to maintain a healthy St. Augustine lawn. Bear in mind, our mowers return good amounts of nitrogen back into the turf in the form of clippings. If you like it really green, try throwing down some chelated iron as opposed to Milorgonite.

I know you are extremely professional and cautious in your applications. So, I'm not saying your way is wrong, we just do it differently with satisfactory results.


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  #15  
Old 08-23-2012, 06:22 AM
Duekster Duekster is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by diamondlandscaping View Post
Gray leaf spot can show up from excess rain alone. Don't need nitrogen to do it.
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Why exacerbate the concern. Just saying what the words of wisdom are in my area.
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  #16  
Old 08-23-2012, 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by diamondlandscaping View Post
And on the topic of milorgonite. I agree it is good for color, but it covers 3-K. What if you have a property that is 20-K? Your gonna drop 6 bags at more cost when 2 bags of 20-0-10 will do the job? If done right, applying N in the growing season isn't going to cause that much more growth. Plus milorgonite has no K.
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There are suppliers who have their own version of milorganite. For example Sunniland up the road here offers a 50lb I believe for less than a retail bag
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  #17  
Old 08-23-2012, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by diamondlandscaping View Post
I have to disagree. I apply slow release granular 4x/year, and the lawns look amazing. I stay at 1lb/N/K, and do not have any fungal issues aside from GLS that will show up from excess rainfall alone. It's the guys over-applying fert that cause issues. I don't overwater either. If its raining, system goes off. Applying in march and then again in oct or so isn't going to cut it IMO. Even the best slow-release ferts will get washed away with the heavy summer rains in 6-8 weeks. I have never had a need to apply liquids to cover up bad areas. Slow-release granular 4x/yr has always worked.
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No biggie IMHO , it has just been my experience that the Micro feeding is the way to go during the heat of rainy and growing season. Less new tempting new flush growth for web worms moths to be attracted too, chinch and of course the stress that fungal vunerablity. But that is just my experience. Everyone has a different approach and that is why there are a million different big time spray companies. They all offer a different approach that works for them.
Here many of they lots are new contruction with High PH...pounding them hard in the early spring after they start to grow on their own will get you the color, they will grow well into summer, the only concern we face if done at that point is the lack of color because the micro's are not able to be taken up etc because of the PH, A micro spray will darken the heck out of a yard if applied at a corrective rate.
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  #18  
Old 08-23-2012, 12:39 PM
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Nitrogen should only be applied when lateral and horizontal growth are needed. If your turf is dense avoid nitrogen when possible. Don't forget during the summer, lightning positively charges nitrogen particles in the air making nitrogen rich rain and the cut clippings release nutrients back into the soil as they decompose, nitrogen included. You'll get plenty. ammonium nitrate is often used in spring in order to help pull turf out of winter dormancy. Nitrate this same time of year also helps populate microbial action in the soil. (these are the micros responsible for converting the nutrients in the form applied to there usable form of nitrate.) Don't forget all plants, turf included only uptake macronutrients in nitrate form so make sure they are populated. Different environmental conditions dictate different nutrient requirements. To always be on the safe side blends like 9-2-24 6%Fe 2%Mn 2%Mg or a 5-10-31 w/ 10%Fe should be used. These blends will aid in minimizing ST. AUG main nemesis the CHINCH BUG and help turf recover from environmental damage in a more timely manor. The only things hard to beat are poor mowing and watering practices, that's mech damage. For example can anyone give a good reason to use weednfeed. doubtful. why stress out 100% of the turf that has less than 40% of weed areas. Or for that matter using a fall pre-emergent foolish. If you don't know why what your doing, how do you know what your doing. Have to understand cause and effect.
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  #19  
Old 08-23-2012, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turfmd101 View Post
Nitrogen should only be applied when lateral and horizontal growth are needed. If your turf is dense avoid nitrogen when possible. Don't forget during the summer, lightning positively charges nitrogen particles in the air making nitrogen rich rain and the cut clippings release nutrients back into the soil as they decompose, nitrogen included. You'll get plenty. ammonium nitrate is often used in spring in order to help pull turf out of winter dormancy. Nitrate this same time of year also helps populate microbial action in the soil. (these are the micros responsible for converting the nutrients in the form applied to there usable form of nitrate.) Don't forget all plants, turf included only uptake macronutrients in nitrate form so make sure they are populated. Different environmental conditions dictate different nutrient requirements. To always be on the safe side blends like 9-2-24 6%Fe 2%Mn 2%Mg or a 5-10-31 w/ 10%Fe should be used. These blends will aid in minimizing ST. AUG main nemesis the CHINCH BUG and help turf recover from environmental damage in a more timely manor. The only things hard to beat are poor mowing and watering practices, that's mech damage. For example can anyone give a good reason to use weednfeed. doubtful. why stress out 100% of the turf that has less than 40% of weed areas. Or for that matter using a fall pre-emergent foolish. If you don't know why what your doing, how do you know what your doing. Have to understand cause and effect.
Thought I was the only one...

Good post!
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  #20  
Old 08-23-2012, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by diamondlandscaping View Post
And on the topic of milorgonite. I agree it is good for color, but it covers 3-K. What if you have a property that is 20-K? Your gonna drop 6 bags at more cost when 2 bags of 20-0-10 will do the job? If done right, applying N in the growing season isn't going to cause that much more growth. Plus milorgonite has no K.
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Sunniland has 7-0-20 that nearly all the nitrogen is in the form of Milorganite. I really like this fertilizer. Like Michael said they have a non-labeled 5-2-0 or 6-2-0 as well. They blend Milorganite for retail sales too...at a higher price and smaller bag

Sunniland's 16-4-8 Acid/Iron is one of my all time favorites. They also have a 50% slow release version of that.
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