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  #11  
Old 08-27-2012, 10:18 PM
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IS500Z IS500Z is offline
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Although you are moving away from mulching you might find that a commercial mower mulches better than a residential tractor as well. My neighbor mows with a 300 series JD lawn tractor, but has given up on mulching as he has problems similar to what you described. My Scag will mulch high wet grass and make the lawn looked like it was bagged. BTW your mulching system should also have had isolation baffles installed around the blades - this might have contributed to your problems.
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  #12  
Old 08-28-2012, 11:35 AM
mschlee mschlee is offline
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thanks all. i'll cut in another day or so (when i get some length to tell the difference).

just out of curiosity, given my craftsman mower has a 24 hp engine, i would assume comparable tip speed? obviously unable to assess (rpm/torque/gearing/etc come into play) but my assumption would be based on the fact that the engine has the power, and the forward speed is slower than ztr (so possibly lower power usage for forward movement)

i of course know nothing about the design specifics so am taking an uneducated guess.

thoughts?
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  #13  
Old 08-28-2012, 08:26 PM
Bigfish8 Bigfish8 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mschlee View Post
thanks all. i'll cut in another day or so (when i get some length to tell the difference).

just out of curiosity, given my craftsman mower has a 24 hp engine, i would assume comparable tip speed? obviously unable to assess (rpm/torque/gearing/etc come into play) but my assumption would be based on the fact that the engine has the power, and the forward speed is slower than ztr (so possibly lower power usage for forward movement)

i of course know nothing about the design specifics so am taking an uneducated guess.

thoughts?
Unfortunately, no the blade tip speed of a lawn tractor mower does not come close to the blade tip speed produced by a commercial ZTR. The tip speeds of a commercial ZTR approach 18,000 rpms. When you engage the PTO on a ZTR you will immediately hear the difference in blade rpms.
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  #14  
Old 08-29-2012, 07:55 AM
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gcbailey gcbailey is online now
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horse power ratings now days are extremely, how do you say..... full of BS. If you get reading you will find several lawsuits of manufacturers misrepresenting or how they reach their HP rating. I have a few old IH Cub cadets with 10/12 HP cast iron Kohler engines that can outwork "modern" 20 HP machines.

Also you'll notice that on commercial blades most of the time they are much thicker and wider than anything you'll find on a residential machine.
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  #15  
Old 09-03-2012, 11:43 AM
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puppypaws puppypaws is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mschlee View Post
i have a flat 1/2 an acre of cool season grass (perennial ryegrass). currently have a 42" craftsman (2010 i think) garden tractor (24 hp model). very few obstacles

i'm not happy with the cut quality. the challenge is:
i can only mow once a week
Perennial ryegrass grows fairly quickly
As i'm near the coast, the grass is normally slightly damp (very high humidity)
I use mulching blades as recommended by the local extension

combine the above facts and it makes for a challenging mow. i get quite a bit of unevenness especially in turns, but more importantly i get large clumps of grass laying on the lawn when done. i have to then go back over and clean up (or have dead spots a week later)

so my question is, what would be the best mower to give me a quality cut. i cant really do a walk behind because i need to pull around some light duty yard utensils e.g., tow behind sprayer.

thanks in advance
No better cut quality, zero turn mowers just provide better maneuverability and a faster cutting time.
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  #16  
Old 09-11-2012, 07:58 AM
mschlee mschlee is offline
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so i did the torture test saturday. i had let the grass grow for a week and a half (thus my slow reply here) and mowed in the morning so it was fairly wet as well - so long wet grass. the only change was that i removed the mulching plug per the advice given. huge difference. no big clumps on the lawn and cuts seemed more even. needless to say i'm very pleased.

one thing that was an issue was that the chute (open slot on the side of deck) kept getting plugged up with wet grass clippings so i had to keep shutting down and cleaning it out. it only took a second to reach down and remove it but i'd like to avoid it if possible.

do you think changing blades would help alleviate the clogging? i thought maybe it was caused because the gator blades were pushing up rather than out? if you think a blade change would make a difference, could you recommend a good set?

thanks all for the help. the results thus far are very promising.

thanks again
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  #17  
Old 09-11-2012, 09:09 AM
Dave does lawns Dave does lawns is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mschlee View Post
so i did the torture test saturday. i had let the grass grow for a week and a half (thus my slow reply here) and mowed in the morning so it was fairly wet as well - so long wet grass. the only change was that i removed the mulching plug per the advice given. huge difference. no big clumps on the lawn and cuts seemed more even. needless to say i'm very pleased.

one thing that was an issue was that the chute (open slot on the side of deck) kept getting plugged up with wet grass clippings so i had to keep shutting down and cleaning it out. it only took a second to reach down and remove it but i'd like to avoid it if possible.

do you think changing blades would help alleviate the clogging? i thought maybe it was caused because the gator blades were pushing up rather than out? if you think a blade change would make a difference, could you recommend a good set?

thanks all for the help. the results thus far are very promising.

thanks again
I think you said your cutting 1.5" of wet grass.? If that's the case the only option I see is to either bag the lawn or live with clumps.

You could also make 2 passes, taking off .75" each pass, in different directions.

I bet 2 full speed passes, cutting less grass would be faster then 1 pass jamming chute and plugging deck. I personally measure grass before I fire mower up. If I am cutting any more then 1" I make a decision bag or 2 passes.
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  #18  
Old 09-11-2012, 08:46 PM
mschlee mschlee is offline
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thanks. any thoughts on good non mulching blades?
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  #19  
Old 09-11-2012, 10:42 PM
mschlee mschlee is offline
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when buying new blades should i get high lift or standard? which type will eject the cut grass better so it does not accumulate around the chute?
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  #20  
Old 09-11-2012, 10:47 PM
Dave does lawns Dave does lawns is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mschlee View Post
when buying new blades should i get high lift or standard? which type will eject the cut grass better so it does not accumulate around the chute?
I use high lift, and only cut so much off per pass.
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