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  #11  
Old 09-12-2012, 10:41 AM
Fiziksgeek Fiziksgeek is offline
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From what I have been reading on this forum, if my second pic is indeed Stilt Grass, Acclaim Extra seems to be the recommended treatment. For the other broad leaf weeds, I think you are right, there are many herbicides that will do the trick, and a blend might be the best way to go....

I did get a quote from the local Lawn Doctor, he actually took a sample of the offending grass and got back to me just this morning, he also came to the conclusion it was Stilt Grass. Said he had a product that "might" take care of it, but no guarantee, I plan to ask him for the name of this product...maybe its Acclaim..Other option was round up and re-seed.

I had previously mentioned a concern about over-seeding without an irrigation system. Seems we've been going through some relatively long dry patches, and my yard is just too big to handle with hoses...We are also getting a bit late in the season I think. So he recommended doing a couple of ferts this year and get full time on the program with pre-m, etc in the spring.

So I think I'll start, it should help with most of my problems anyway. We'll see how the next year goes and then re-evaluate.
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  #12  
Old 09-12-2012, 07:10 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fiziksgeek View Post
From what I have been reading on this forum, if my second pic is indeed Stilt Grass, Acclaim Extra seems to be the recommended treatment. For the other broad leaf weeds, I think you are right, there are many herbicides that will do the trick, and a blend might be the best way to go....

I did get a quote from the local Lawn Doctor, he actually took a sample of the offending grass and got back to me just this morning, he also came to the conclusion it was Stilt Grass. Said he had a product that "might" take care of it, but no guarantee, I plan to ask him for the name of this product...maybe its Acclaim..Other option was round up and re-seed.

I had previously mentioned a concern about over-seeding without an irrigation system. Seems we've been going through some relatively long dry patches, and my yard is just too big to handle with hoses...We are also getting a bit late in the season I think. So he recommended doing a couple of ferts this year and get full time on the program with pre-m, etc in the spring.

So I think I'll start, it should help with most of my problems anyway. We'll see how the next year goes and then re-evaluate.
I don't know what "Stilt Grass" is but it looks like CrabGrass to me... does it die in the Fall with Frost???

Overseeding is no real problem w/out irrigation... You can put the seed down now in the aereas you want to thicken up and the seed germinates when it is ready... just because it doesn't come up in 2 weeks or less doesn't mean its not coming up at all...

The last 2 years in a row we had a dry October, so most of the Fall seeding didn't brighten up the November landscape,,, however I applied the Dormant seeding, around the time of the ground freezing and the first snow and I had a great Spingtime greenup as a result...

Put off your Pre-M, until your new grasses are mature enough to handle it...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
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  #13  
Old 09-13-2012, 12:19 PM
Fiziksgeek Fiziksgeek is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallaxe View Post
I don't know what "Stilt Grass" is but it looks like CrabGrass to me...
So you're saying pic 1 and 2 of the original post are the same? Just crabgrass? I'm no expert, but I comfortably assert they are not the same!
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  #14  
Old 09-13-2012, 01:32 PM
showags showags is offline
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My Thoughts On the Weeds:
1. Crab
2. Stilt
3. Oxalis (clover)
4. Creeping Charlie
5. Wild Violet

If you are really antsie about the crab grass, you could spray it with a herbicide containing quinclorac (contrary to popular opinion, I have had good luck with the Weed B Gon Max w/crabgrass). I let it die and then pull it to open up soil for new seed.

For the broadleafs, given the type you have, I would actually lean towards a tryclopyr based herbicide. I had better luck with it than a 2,4-D based. They are relatively hardy, so I would treat it and then retreat it 10 or so days later. Some clovers and the creeping charlie has a waxy layer that needs to be broken down for effective treatment so I think re-treating is key. They die a slow death so it can be two weeks before you notice them dying off, but they will die.

For all other broadleafs, a blend of 2,4-D, MCPP and Dicamba work well. I usually keep two products on hand for weeds, a Triclopyr Based and a 2,4-D based. I prefer the concentrate so I can tweak the concentration at use a little depending on the weed. Weed B Gon products have worked fine for me.

These are my un-professional opinions that I have developed from reviving the lawn that came with the house we bought last fall (in other words, it is what I have tried personally). Unfortunately, I have learned more about weeds than I ever wanted to this spring/summer.
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  #15  
Old 09-13-2012, 10:04 PM
Fiziksgeek Fiziksgeek is offline
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I had started the year spot spraying weeds as they appeared with things like weed-b-gone. Worked great on things like the pink clover, dandelions, etc. I usually mixed it up slightly stronger, and treated twice, about a week apart. Didn't touch the creeping charlie. It also doesn't seem to afect the weed int he last pic, red wood sorrell I think.

The crab grass is annoying, but I know it will die back and I should get good control if I can start a good preM program in the spring. The japanese stilt grass in a bit concerning, mainly because i wasn't completely sure thats what it was.

I am going to start with the local lawn doctor, he seems to be saying enough to make me feel he knows something about maintaining a nice lawn. I am not expecting drastic results with the crab grass or stilt between now and winter, but hopefully I am setting myself up for a better lawn next year...
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  #16  
Old 09-14-2012, 08:22 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is offline
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Get a different broadleaf mixture and hit the CC in the Fall... this is the best time of the year to take out the CC... I still haven't seen your stilt grass, only the CG appears... I'll have to page back and try again, but is it a perennial grassy weed???
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #17  
Old 09-14-2012, 03:58 PM
Fiziksgeek Fiziksgeek is offline
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Hmmm...there are 5 pics on the first post....not being able to see them has gotta be confusing..haha

Stilt grass=Japanese Stilt Grass. Its an annual I believe, considered an invasive species in 14 states.....
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  #18  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:49 AM
noweedshere noweedshere is offline
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3. Yellow woodsorrel aka oxalis
4. Wild violet
5. Creeping woodsorrel

All 3 of these weeds will be better controlled with a broadleaf combination containing triclopyr. Violet might take multiple applications still. Look for Ortho Clover, Chickweed, and Oxalis Killer (CCO). It is straight triclopyr and can be applied alone or combined with your other weed b gon mix.
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  #19  
Old 09-16-2012, 11:57 AM
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White Gardens White Gardens is offline
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1.) Crab Grass (or any other weed grass)
2.) Asiatic Dayflower. Good luck killing and controlling that one.
3.) Clover
4.) Wild Violet
5.) Black Medic while still a bit green.



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  #20  
Old 09-16-2012, 12:00 PM
noweedshere noweedshere is offline
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3 and 5 are definitely oxalis varieties. You can see new and spent oxalis seed pods in the last picture. Not clover or medic.
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