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  #1  
Old 01-03-2010, 10:54 PM
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jlbf0786 jlbf0786 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 338
** NEED WIRING DIAGRAM ** Bunton wb mower w/ 17.5hp Tecumseh

I just bought a Bunton 36" Walkbehind mower that has a Tecumseh 17.5hp Enduro engine on it. The engine has an electric starter, this isn't the engine that was on the Bunton originally (which im sure most of you already know).

This mower had a Tecumseh on it originally, but "from what i was told by the seller" it was changed to this newer/larger TECUMSEH 17.5hp Enduro w/ elec. start. It didnt come with a battery or a Solenoid, but i went and picked both up from Advance Auto today, I just havent had experience w/ walkbehinds that are elec. start!
It has no recoil/pull starter option (i would have rather had that.)


I NEED THE WIRING DIAGRAM --OR-- Steps to wiring the entire IGNITION & BATTERY to the mower.

Ive stripped the mower of its original wiring from under the handle bar assembly.


IF ANYONE CAN HELP ME OUT WITH THIS I WOULD GREATLY APPRECIATE IT!

Thanks guys~ Have a great New Year!!!

~JB
CHARLOTTE, NC
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  #2  
Old 01-03-2010, 10:59 PM
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jlbf0786 jlbf0786 is offline
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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RE: More Info

I forgot to include the model/serial of the Mower & Engine on the original post!
_________________________
BUNTON
Model# 630200
Serial# 6302000284
_________________________

TECUMSEH
Model# OHV175 204803B
Serial# YTPXS.4902AA
_________________________


Thank again fellas
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  #3  
Old 01-11-2010, 02:08 AM
Richabrad9 Richabrad9 is offline
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Location: La Follette TN
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I hope this helps. This is the simpleless I could come up with and it is using a standard Briggs Switch with lights, acessory, start, run and off. This is for the start and kill only. If you have an eletric Pto You will need to find out if your stator can handle meaning amps output and know that safety switches should be wired back up as well.
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Old 01-11-2010, 09:13 AM
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jlbf0786 jlbf0786 is offline
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Location: Charlotte, NC
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wiring

Hey thanks for the wiring diagram.

Thats exactly what i ended up doing, except the 1st time around i didnt use a thick enough wire from the battery to solenoid.. it ended up melting the wire! i should've known better, but i went w/ a thicker wire and it runs fine now.

Thanks again,
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  #5  
Old 01-11-2010, 09:47 AM
Richabrad9 Richabrad9 is offline
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Location: La Follette TN
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Just in case, I would include a 15 fuse as close to the battery terminal as possible on the wire leading to the B on the switch. In the event of a short or bad switch it will blow the fuse and not your charging system or magneto. Sorry I didnt get to you in time.
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Old 01-12-2010, 05:30 PM
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jlbf0786 jlbf0786 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
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ENGINE KILL SWITCH ISSUES.. etc

I appreciate the responses. It was helpful info..
BUT now ive got another issue:

I cant get the engine to shut off until i choke it!
The red-wire that comes from the magneto should go to one of the ignition terminals, and i cant figure out which one.
Can someone tell me exactly where this wire goes?
***See from the attached photo what the ignition looks like underneath exactly.


Also,
I put a new battery on it, and today it was dead.. and i had to jump it off.
Why does it keep dying?
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  #7  
Old 01-12-2010, 06:16 PM
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FIXDISS FIXDISS is offline
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Location: Roanoke.Al
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Put the kill wire from the ignition module on the "M" terminal. The switch must also be grounded if not mounted to a metal plate or frame. When you switch off the switch the magneto or ignition module grounds thru the switch to kill engine. If your battery is going dead when switched to off and you have no lights on unit then make sure you don't have power to the shut down solenoid on bottom of carb when you turn switch off. That is if you have one on that engine. Just my half-fast opinion....
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Just my half-fast opinion....Fixdiss
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  #8  
Old 01-12-2010, 06:24 PM
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Lawn Man Dave Lawn Man Dave is offline
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Location: Indianapolis, IN
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I have ran Bunton's with the Kawi motor's (If I remeber right they were Kawi's) and they had electric start but it was all removed. If you take care of them it only takes a few pulls at must to start them cold then the rest of they day you have bacd luck it if takes more then 1 pull to start them. The key was just an arming switch to let you start it.

It was also nice because win it rained or it slid into a rentention pond there was not much wiring that could get wet.
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  #9  
Old 01-12-2010, 08:00 PM
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jlbf0786 jlbf0786 is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 338
RE: wiring

The only 3 wires running to the ignition switch is:
B = Battery
S = Solenoid
and another wire thats coming from the magneto, but i couldnt get the engine to die today when trying to find out which one it is on the ignition...


I put it to each one of the left over terminals on the bottom of the
ignition and non of them would stop the engine!

What could be draining the battery?
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  #10  
Old 01-12-2010, 10:07 PM
Richabrad9 Richabrad9 is offline
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Location: La Follette TN
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Was this a new switch? If not it could be bad. I would check all of your connections with a multimeter for continuity. If the wire from the magneto is touch to ground or part of the frame anywere it should die. Like the other post, Make sure your switch is grounded. I see you have an extra ground plug, Attach a wire to that and bolt it to the frame as well. The magneto wire should still be on the M terminal. Again as above, If you have a carb with a wire coming off the bottom of the bowl, Attach that wire to the acessory terminal. Hope this helps.
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