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#1
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Fertilizer for new lawn
I have a 10,500 sq ft yard of new Kentucky Bluegrass sod. It was put in in late July so I’m ready to do the first application of fertilizer. I waited this long because I did not want to proceed without getting a soil report first. I have that now and it reports that, per year / per 100 sq ft, I need 4 lbs of nitrogen (high maintenance schedule because of sprinkler system), 1.2 lbs of phosphate and 1.3 lbs of potassium. So I’m thinking I need to find something with a 4-1-1 ratio. Is there a brand or source you could steer me towards? If my math is correct, I’ll need to lay down about 42 pounds of N, and 12-13 pounds each of P and K per year for my lawn. What is the best schedule for doing this?
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#2
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There is no indication of where you live so it is hard to say when your winterizer would go down... here I'm ready for a second app of fert for mid Sept. and will have the winterizer down before mid-Oct...
I want the fert to be used up before the ground freezes so I apply it as water-soluable rather than slow-release... unused fertilizer pellets tend to get washed away at snow melt and even worse may end up in the water table... 4lbs/k is standard fair for lab reports on N... you could apply .5 or .75 lbs/k now,,, then again as winterizer... P ,,, I would apply once and be done with adding that altogether... in fact I'm surprised that a lab report for turf would recommend P at all... they must think you're growing corn... K ,,, you can add with the winterizer as is customary in most winterizing ferts...
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* Water/air ratio in relation to water flow to/from any plantlife is a Basic Fundamental Concept in understanding seed germination as much as transplanting a 20' Maple tree in 90 degree weather... * |
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#3
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Thanks. I'm in SE Michigan.
Good to know about the slow release. I'm not sure why they recommend P. It's new construction with rocky clay soil underneath the nice stuff that came with the sod. |
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#4
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Hopefully you have roots growing into that clay underneath the sod layer... sounds like a load of compost would be in order moreso than a particular fertilizer... aerating it first so that the compost gets down into the desired root zone a bit...
__________________
* Water/air ratio in relation to water flow to/from any plantlife is a Basic Fundamental Concept in understanding seed germination as much as transplanting a 20' Maple tree in 90 degree weather... * |
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#5
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I am sure they recommended 4 pounds of nitrogen for 1000 sqft per year, (not 4 lbs per 100 sqft).
Axe is right--you don't need the phosphorus--and its not legal in Michigan--unless the soil test shows a deficiency, (below about 20 pounds per acre). I think Scotts has a 26-0-8 or something similar--it would be fine. Follow the directions on the bag. You will get about one pound of nitrogen per 1000 sqft. Do the same about every 6 weeks next year, and it will total about 4 pounds of nitrogen per 1000 sqft per year. |
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