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  #31  
Old 09-25-2012, 10:41 AM
Skipster Skipster is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Billings, MT
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpllawncare View Post
I had a customer that went to JDL and bought a bag of lesco "Professional" seed, got home looked up the ingredients and compared it to a bag of scotts SAME EXACT THING he showed me the labels of both products, he has a perfect looking lawn and won't let anyone other than him fertilize or apply any weed control to it, he says "Just cut it" I'll do the rest. Sure can't argue with his results. BTW He only uses Granular products.
So, what does this say about things that are labeled "Pro" or "Professional"? It's all marketing. Seed from a particular cultivar or mix is still that cultivar or mix, even if it says "Professional" or "Cheap-*** Homeowner Stuff" on the bag.

I think we had a thread about this type of subject once with RoundUp. Whether you use the stuff off the shelf at Wal-Mart or you buy it directly from Monsanto, if you follow the label directions, you apply the same amount of the same stuff. The marketing language on the container doesn't impact the results.

Similarly, you can deliver the same quality with a dry program that you can with a liquid program. I used to use this as a conversation starter at extension presentations: which is better, liquid or dry fert? The answer: They're the SAME! It's all fertilizer -- it all breaks down to the same simple compounds for plant uptake. Urea is urea, whether it comes from prill urea, SCU, PCU, PCSCU, or liquid urea.

I think the cool things about fertilizers is that there are hundreds of ways to get the same end result, so you can pick and choose what fits your needs the best.
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  #32  
Old 01-31-2013, 03:20 PM
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SteveHuffman SteveHuffman is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Blaine, Minnesota
Posts: 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by Djk83 View Post
I'm wrapping up my second full season. Thinking about doing my own thing. Would it be possible and effective to use dry fert only and backpack the weeds?
Dry fert is just fine. I used to work for a big national company for a while and now when i treat my lawn its all dry with spot spray of the weeds. Have you thought about a ride on applicator? They can be spendy but will really help out your productions rates and also make those blank applications very easy to do.
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  #33  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:00 AM
bobbycat02 bobbycat02 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: CAPE COD Ma
Posts: 62
All lawns are not the same so we tailor a program to fit their turf needs, We start out with a soil test on each new property before i apply any thing that will tell you the health of soil and what you need to apply in the right amt no wasting of your time or money or theirs you get better results when know whats going with the soil healthy soil equals healthy turf.Also timing of application is so important ex Dimension applied at 55 degrees soil temp will get much better weed suppression pre and post.We only use Granular and back pack sprayers i find its better use only what you need instead of just spraying a whole yard weather it needs it or not. also we Recommend to our customers compost,over seeding ,aeration Thicker lawn less weeds ,chemicals etc and know your limits we do 5,000 Sq ft up to 10,000 sq ft and i have one that's 19,500 but that's mostly organic program also what the condition of turf is poor soil low ph weeds i try to amend soils and seed slice,aeration but if there is not enough water or poor water practices no amount of controls or fert will help any lawn
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  #34  
Old 02-02-2013, 10:12 AM
bobbycat02 bobbycat02 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: CAPE COD Ma
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For new people just starting out make sure you check with your state about obtaining a lic and insurance it is required in most states. In my state any one for hire applying Fertilizer,or control products on a property not your own must have a lic and insurance that's the law
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