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  #11  
Old 09-17-2012, 09:00 PM
Moose's Mowing's Avatar
Moose's Mowing Moose's Mowing is offline
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how about this junk? says it contains Dylox and it's not safe for kids, pets, fruits or vegetables. Sounds like my kinda stuff. One bag covers 5000 sf. So 2 or 3 pallets of the stuff outta do my yard HA. No, but seriously, you think this stuff will work for me? It's bad for business when the lawn guy's lawn turns to dirt. (better not quit my day job)
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  #12  
Old 09-17-2012, 09:34 PM
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Tharrell Tharrell is offline
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Location: Mount Airy, NC aka Mayberry
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StanWilhite View Post
Ridin' you're exactly right!

Last year part of my yard looked that way and I found out it was the work of armadillos. By waiting several nights from 11PM to 1AM (their dinner time) I finally got rid of them with the help of a 12 ga.

Just a few days ago I noticed the "divots" once again and got my little buddy "Mr 12 ga" to help me out once more. After sitting in my truck for a couple of nights (once again at their "dinner time") I found out that it was a racoon this time.

I missed a good shot at him because I couldn't see my sights in the darkness. So, I'm picking up either night sights or a laser for the 12 ga tomorrow.

If your conditions are dry you'll notice they head for the places that are easiest to dig....like over "field lines".

Good luck with them, they'll ruin your yard if you don't get rid of them
Stan
I thought I hit an armadillo back in 1977 on the beltline road, yeah I used to live in Decatur.
It was at night so I got a bare glimpse.
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  #13  
Old 09-17-2012, 09:53 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoxtrot9 View Post
Grub-Ex prevents grubs, it will not do anything to help your current problem. You are past that now. Gene is correct, what you need is Dylox or "Grub Killer". Put it down as quickly as possible and water in immediatly. They won't stop eating until you stop 'em!
Not true. Read the link. I've used it to kill grubs plenty enough times now to know it does in fact work.

http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/pr...temId=cat50060
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  #14  
Old 09-17-2012, 11:45 PM
StanWilhite StanWilhite is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tharrell View Post
I thought I hit an armadillo back in 1977 on the beltline road, yeah I used to live in Decatur.
It was at night so I got a bare glimpse.
Small world huh?

I live 2 miles ("as the crow flies") from the intersection of hwy 67 and I65, just outside the Priceville city limits.

Up until maybe 15 years ago I'd never seen an armadillo around here but they are pretty common now.
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  #15  
Old 09-18-2012, 08:31 AM
caseysmowing caseysmowing is online now
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grubs

I have lots of these grubs in my yard but no coons just moles. Lots and lots of moles. If I get rid of the grubs will the moles leave?? I have been there for 6 years and they are still there someone told me they would eventually leave.
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  #16  
Old 09-18-2012, 09:56 AM
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trooper8870 trooper8870 is offline
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Location: Tennessee
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There is a product called Milk Spore or Milkey Spore, something to that affect that I picked up at local nursery. Its supposed to kill grubs and there larvae for up to 7 years. Its an organic powder, I do believe, and is safe to put on your lawn if you have kids and pets. You may want to check this out. I know damage to lawns by grubs, moles and other pests has been horrible in my area this year.
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  #17  
Old 09-18-2012, 11:29 AM
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jfoxtrot9 jfoxtrot9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridin' Green View Post
Not true. Read the link. I've used it to kill grubs plenty enough times now to know it does in fact work.

http://www.scotts.com/smg/catalog/pr...temId=cat50060
Don't waste your money listening to this wrong advice. Use Dylox.

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2001.html

At the bottom of the page (option 3).

"Grubs are best controlled when they are small and actively feeding near the soil surface, usually late July to mid-August. However, with the development of new grub control chemistry (e.g., imidacloprid [Merit] and halofenozide [MACH2]), applications in June and July have sufficient residual activity to kill the new grub populations as they come to the soil surface in late July through August. Control of grubs in late-fall or early-spring is difficult, at best, because the grubs are large and may not be feeding. Only trichlorfon (Dylox) and carbaryl (Sevin) formulations are available for such rescue treatments. The key to good control is to make an even application and water thoroughly."
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  #18  
Old 09-18-2012, 02:09 PM
Puttinggreens Puttinggreens is offline
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Location: southeast PA
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Be sure to water in the product as the label states.

Also, might want to keep the chickens away from the poisoned grubs once you apply the product.
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  #19  
Old 09-18-2012, 02:16 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoxtrot9 View Post
Don't waste your money listening to this wrong advice. Use Dylox.

http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2001.html

At the bottom of the page (option 3).

"Grubs are best controlled when they are small and actively feeding near the soil surface, usually late July to mid-August. However, with the development of new grub control chemistry (e.g., imidacloprid [Merit] and halofenozide [MACH2]), applications in June and July have sufficient residual activity to kill the new grub populations as they come to the soil surface in late July through August. Control of grubs in late-fall or early-spring is difficult, at best, because the grubs are large and may not be feeding. Only trichlorfon (Dylox) and carbaryl (Sevin) formulations are available for such rescue treatments. The key to good control is to make an even application and water thoroughly."
Yes, but it does state in the very firrst section that it kills grubs, not just the larvae, and I know it does, because I've treated yards with it and no other product, and the grubs were killed off. I could dig in the same spots that I had before applying it and find the now dead grubs after application. It will kill them unless the infestation is extremely severe, then yea, a stronger solution is in order, but the OP's yard is very similar to what I've used it on with excellent results.

Also, notice that it says to use Dylox in early spring or late fall because they are harder to kill then, while they are easier in June through August which we are just coming out of now.
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  #20  
Old 09-18-2012, 02:21 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by caseysmowing View Post
I have lots of these grubs in my yard but no coons just moles. Lots and lots of moles. If I get rid of the grubs will the moles leave?? I have been there for 6 years and they are still there someone told me they would eventually leave.
Generally if you get rid of grubs there will be far less problem with moles. However, since moles also eat earthworms and such, you may still have a few around.
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