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Old 01-08-2015, 04:11 AM
blackscooby blackscooby is offline
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Briggs wont fire up

Hi been awhile since last past , Got a issue someone mite be able to help .

Briggs 33M777 Type 1400BI Code 100118ZD of a Husqvarna

I got it from a customer who has put a new decompression & the governor balancer in it as old one was stuffed.

Now I have get it running , The crankshaft was lined up dot to dot when he installed .

Both valves are set a 0.30 the rod where taken out the alloy is on the exhaust ?

Has good to very good compression , Good spark, Even tried some spray down the air filter pipe , Makes a firing sound wont run,

It has a fuel solenoid on the carb if doing a bench test will that open ever if the wire harness is not plugged in .

CAN YOU HELP WHAT AM I MISSING ??? JOHN
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2015, 10:29 AM
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ilike2mow ilike2mow is offline
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Have you tried replacing the solenoid because if I'm reading it correctly, it's open all the time?

That would be a faulty solenoid.
But for the starting issues, are you getting spark?
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2015, 10:35 AM
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BigFish BigFish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackscooby View Post
Hi been awhile since last past , Got a issue someone mite be able to help .

Briggs 33M777 Type 1400BI Code 100118ZD of a Husqvarna

I got it from a customer who has put a new decompression & the governor balancer in it as old one was stuffed.

Now I have get it running , The crankshaft was lined up dot to dot when he installed .

Both valves are set a 0.30 the rod where taken out the alloy is on the exhaust ?

Has good to very good compression , Good spark, Even tried some spray down the air filter pipe , Makes a firing sound wont run,

It has a fuel solenoid on the carb if doing a bench test will that open ever if the wire harness is not plugged in .

CAN YOU HELP WHAT AM I MISSING ??? JOHN
Off hand, I'd say...
But I digress.

The aluminum pushrod goes to the intake side.
.300 valve clearance???? The valves are set at .003-.005 intake and exhaust.
No How is a solenoid gonna function/open if it ain't plugged in? C'mon bud. I needs 12 V to open and let fuel enter the main jet.

Did you check the condition of the flywheel/key?
Did you personally verify the correct cam/crank timing?
Did he use the right cam?
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Old 01-08-2015, 01:16 PM
herler herler is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigFish View Post
Off hand, I'd say...
But I digress.

The aluminum pushrod goes to the intake side.
.300 valve clearance???? The valves are set at .003-.005 intake and exhaust.
That is correct, I just went through that whole issue with the bent / broken pushrod on a Briggs and went with a 'generic' .005 valve lash for both sides (intake and exhaust). The engine had other problems, but you really need to fix engines one problem at a time here... Not carburetion this, coil that, oh valve lash over there, that's not going to work.

///////////////////////////////////////////////////
The fact that it was set to...
0.3?

Doesn't give me much hope here...

You really have to do this one detail at a time or we're never going to see the light at the end of the tunnel.

So I would go ahead and set that valve lash correctly.
Do it with a cold engine (I don't suppose this would be a problem).
.005 intake and exhaust.
Double check it before you even try to start it.
Then triple check it.
And one last time, yes I want you to set it and then check it FOUR times, .005 both sides.

Do that, and come on back if it still won't start.

Last edited by herler; 01-08-2015 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:42 AM
blackscooby blackscooby is offline
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Briggs wont start

Ok the valves are now set at your recommend gap , will fire but wont keep running , Now the Engine is out of the mower , The guy who owns it keeps trying to start this engine on a bench with battery straight to the starter.

Back to the fuel solenoid , The leads from solenoid run from carby around back of engine into a harness block that not attached to anything ,

Does this engine type need to be back in the mower so the electric are connected .

If everything internal went back to spec , crank all lined up , got good spark , valves now set , good compression, has fuel in the line to carby , WHATS STOPPING THIS FROM RUNNING > Is it to do with fuel solenoid ???
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Old 01-11-2015, 05:13 PM
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Jeff in AL Jeff in AL is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackscooby View Post
Ok the valves are now set at your recommend gap , will fire but wont keep running , Now the Engine is out of the mower , The guy who owns it keeps trying to start this engine on a bench with battery straight to the starter.

Back to the fuel solenoid , The leads from solenoid run from carby around back of engine into a harness block that not attached to anything ,

Does this engine type need to be back in the mower so the electric are connected .

If everything internal went back to spec , crank all lined up , got good spark , valves now set , good compression, has fuel in the line to carby , WHATS STOPPING THIS FROM RUNNING > Is it to do with fuel solenoid ???
Fish already answered this back in post #3...

YES, you will need 12 volts on the grey wire to open the fuel solenoid for the carburetor to flow fuel!
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Old 01-11-2015, 06:12 PM
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BigFish BigFish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff in AL View Post
Fish already answered this back in post #3...

YES, you will need 12 volts on the grey wire to open the fuel solenoid for the carburetor to flow fuel!
Hence my avatar...
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  #8  
Old 01-12-2015, 12:16 AM
suspicionofignorance suspicionofignorance is offline
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To help you understand the solenoid, As you thread it in to the carb, the little plunger is sealing off the inflow of gas to tube...when 12v is applied, solenoid withdraws the plunger, allows fuel to enter the manifold..You can replace the solenoid with a short bolt of same thread...Solenoids purpose is to prevent backfires when shutting down...
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  #9  
Old 01-12-2015, 04:52 AM
blackscooby blackscooby is offline
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Thanks Guys for all the info, I've told the owner to refit the engine to the mower then try to fire it up ,With all your input & what have checked it should start first go It appears he was working on small engines in the dark ages about 40 years ago & still thinks he can use the same starting tech's on today engines.

Doing a bench test starting with a electric drill as cordless hadn't come out yet. THE GOOD HARD OLD DAYS
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