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  #31  
Old 10-19-2012, 08:02 AM
orangemower orangemower is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roger View Post
I see many are using Hi-Lift jacks, sometimes for purposes other than lifting the mower.

How about lifting out wooden posts, ... anybody?

Recently, I replaced three wooden posts for a customer. These were posts holding up sawn rails, 10 feet long. All three rotted at ground level. This meant the stub was still in the ground, and needed to come out before new posts could be installed. The wood of the stubs were all solid yet. This is not uncommon -- top portion of the post is solid, the stub underground is solid, but the rotting at ground level renders the post useless.

I had a hard time taking out the stubs (24-28" buried). Later, I was asking myself about an easier time to get those stubs out, and thought of my Hi-Lift jack.

I have five more posts to remove/install. Obviously, I am looking for a better way than crowbars.

Has anybody used their Hi-Lift jack to pull out the stub? If so, how did you rig it? What fixture or jig did you use to hold the jack?

I am thinking of getting an O-ring, to put on the end of a link chain. By looping the chain around the stub (need to dig down a few inches), with the chain coming through the O-ring, it should draw tight with an upward force. Yes, I can make a loop to go across the lifting arm of the jack, but how to hold the jack in the upright position?

A better way would be to have a chain hoist, positioned over the stub. Perhaps I tripod, with a winch to pull straight up.

I am willing to spend some time building something that will work. After the five pending posts, I may have several more.
I think the easiest way to do it would be to notch the post so the chain doesn't slip. It will bind up tight. I had a similar situation where I had to remove chain link fence posts. I used a floor jack and sure enough it worked. I didn't have a hi-lift jack at the time. I do now thanks to a friend that didn't need 3 of them. I recently replaced 3 wooden posts at a customers house that were rotted just as you mentioned. Unfortunately all of them were rotted off and broken so I had to dig, dig ,dig to get the concrete ball out.
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  #32  
Old 10-19-2012, 08:00 PM
Roger Roger is online now
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Floor jack, ... that sounds like a good solution. Thinking about it today, ... put the jack on a 2X6, or similar, drape the chain across the lifting support, one pull on each side. This sounds promising.
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  #33  
Old 10-20-2012, 08:08 AM
orangemower orangemower is offline
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It took some rigging to get the jack to push up on the post. I think I use something to hook to the existing hinge clamps from the fence. It pulled the entire concrete ball out! Yes you'll need to use a solid board to put the jack on. It does take some messing around to get it to push up without coming off but it works. After the first post I was like a kid in a candy store. I was all gitty and happy that I didn't have to dig all of them out.
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  #34  
Old 10-28-2012, 04:58 AM
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Tharrell Tharrell is offline
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Location: Mount Airy, NC aka Mayberry
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Got to use my Hi Lift yesterday.
Put 2 new rear tires on my tandem 18" trailer.
I normally would've used my floor jack that I put in my truck but this discussion got me to pull out the Hi Lift or farm jack.
I have to say it was so much easier than the floor jack and only took a couple of pumps to get the wheel off the ground.
But, I can't figure out how to let it down properly.
The best thing I came up with is to push the curved lever down and pull the bottom pin out so I can jack it down.
What am I missing?

Anyway, it's going in the back of my truck now!
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  #35  
Old 10-28-2012, 08:03 AM
orangemower orangemower is offline
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The lever should switch it from up to down.
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  #36  
Old 10-29-2012, 11:55 PM
weve weve is offline
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There is a 28 page instruction manual on the Hi-Lift website.

http://www.hi-lift.com/hi-lift-jacks...on-manual.html
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