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Old 10-02-2012, 05:48 PM
tonydirks tonydirks is offline
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Seeding methods

I have searched through the forum and can`t seem to find a discussion on differrent methods of seeding new lawns, so if this is a subject somewhere else, please point me to it.

So the question is, what methods of seeding a new lawn do you use or what have you seen the best results from? I realize that all areas may be differrent and there are variances, but just say what has worked best for you and how many weeks/days until you had grass coming up and how many days/weeks until you had a good stand of grass. I am just looking to learn new and differrent ways that may improve my seeding jobs. Thanks!!
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:44 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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I always do the loose soil and hand rake routine... it is a little more work,,, but often more cost effective than levelling with a skidster and most importantly it is not seriously compacted therefore, the turf comes out perfect every time...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:56 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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you are a little late. Start 6 weeks before frost--8 weeks is better--or when daily temps come down below 85 degrees in fall. If not sod, than a high quality seed suited to your climate, irrigation, soil and planned use of the lawn. If the soil is warm--and moist--you should see a bit of grass after 7 days. Drop seed and starter, rake it in.
If not use hydroseed.
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Old 10-05-2012, 09:15 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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I never worry about frost, but do acknowledge when the ground is bound to be frozen...

You are south of CentroWisco and we're supposed to have major killing frost tomorrow, with a chance that the ground may start to freeze by the end of next week... I would plant seed tomorrow, but would irrigate nothing more than the first time , just to soak it in... if it warms after that, irrigation will be fine and may even cause seed to pop...

Overseeding in Oct is not uncommon for me over the years, and if it comes up 2 days before the ground freezes, it is always good to go... you will not likely get the germination that you'd get in August, but dormant seeding makes up the difference...

When do you typically get frozen turf???
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:23 PM
tonydirks tonydirks is offline
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1. Thanks for the replies on tips and how you have found good ways for seeding and getting a good stand of grass!

2. Did I ever mention that I was still seeding? I was opening a discussion on seeding methods, not when to seed.

3. We do have frost forecast for tonight for the first time this year, our ground won`t be freezing for a month or two yet unless this is an exceptionally cold year, there are lots of guys still seeding here. I do some commercial new sites and the only time we don`t seed is if there is snow on the ground, they don`t really care about seeding times they want it seeded before the job is turned over and if thats January, then thats when we do it!
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Old 10-05-2012, 08:50 PM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tonydirks View Post
1. Thanks for the replies on tips and how you have found good ways for seeding and getting a good stand of grass!

2. Did I ever mention that I was still seeding? I was opening a discussion on seeding methods, not when to seed.

3. We do have frost forecast for tonight for the first time this year, our ground won`t be freezing for a month or two yet unless this is an exceptionally cold year, there are lots of guys still seeding here. I do some commercial new sites and the only time we don`t seed is if there is snow on the ground, they don`t really care about seeding times they want it seeded before the job is turned over and if thats January, then thats when we do it!
I've spent most of my carreer in shade lawns more than anything and we've successfully seeded every month of the growing season... if you get pushed back to the frozen tundra overseed or even a complete brand new lawn,,, it is best to apply the seed(broadcast is fine) at the beginning of Winter rather than the end... although Early Spring works too, it's just harder to prime for germination when its cold and the seed is starting out dry... have fun...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #7  
Old 10-05-2012, 09:11 PM
tonydirks tonydirks is offline
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We have seeded the last few winters all winter, and it lays there dormant until spring and then comes up good enough for the commercial jobs that they want it done on, when we do these jobs we always use straw matting and I`m sure that helps the seed to stay down till spring. I am looking for more economical ways to seed that would appeal to customers that can`t afford sod, straw mat or hydroseed.
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  #8  
Old 10-05-2012, 10:45 PM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is online now
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I seeded on top of snow last year (mainly perennial rye) (in a flower pot outside). My photos are on here somewhere...I think.
Found it...Seed sprouted April 15 after 72 days.

Spring-seeded grass, was a quarter-inch tall after 18 days on April 25th. The soil temp on that date was 52.

Soaking the seed 24 hours before it was planted in spring caused it to arise after only nine days.
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Old 10-06-2012, 10:47 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
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A cheaper way to seed is to lose the straw matting... I can't think of a scenario where straw matting would be useful in Dormant Seeding... Can you??? there are rare occassions when straw would be a good idea,,, but generally I never use straw or EZ Mulch stuff...

Yes, you can seed in the late winter and on top of the snow, just not sure where the seed will hit the ground... we usually have ice sheets built up under the snow by February, so I like to get the seed on the ground before snow comes...
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Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
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  #10  
Old 10-06-2012, 11:21 AM
tonydirks tonydirks is offline
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Smallaxe, I am not sure I understand what you are saying? The matting we use runs close to the same price as a good thick layer of hydromulch, we charge $0.18 a sq. ft., and I know some here will say thats high for hydromulch, I seen threads where they claim they do it for $.04 a sq. ft., and I say no wonder I have not been impressed with the results that I have seen in hydoseeding, because you have the lowballers out there bidding it cheap to get the job and the grass stand doesnt look any better than if you would have just scattered seed without doing a thing to it. When we do a job with the matting that we use, you have the best stand of grass that I have seen with a seeded lawn, if you use the straw matting, you have the netting to deal with. There is a netless matting also that we havent used due to the extra price but I am sure that it would be just as good.
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