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Old 05-29-2015, 10:45 AM
dsynan dsynan is offline
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TORO aftermarket blades?

I've mowed my lawn 3 times with a new Toro Titan MX5400 and knicked a rock this last time and it bent the blade significantly. After taking the blade off, I realized how cheap and thin the stock blades are on these. I haven't had any luck talking to dealers in the area about finding aftermarket high lift blades for Toro's. I can get 'gator' type mulching blades, but from my understanding it won't throw the clippings out the side as well. Any ideas (besides buying a different mower)?
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:11 AM
crankincraig crankincraig is offline
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There must be a blade out there that will fit that machine. Gator blades ( and others as well ) can be looked up by the dimensions of your current blade. Length ( tip - tip ) , width , mounting bolt pattern or size ( one center bolt , two mounting bolts , spline , etc. ) , flat or offset.
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  #3  
Old 05-29-2015, 11:21 AM
dsynan dsynan is offline
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I would buy the stock ones but they are only 1/8 " thick. Would like to find 1/4 " if possible. Thanks
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:25 AM
bjack312 bjack312 is offline
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Get the part number off the factory blade, and look up a replacement blade on the Oregon website.

You will probably find a variety of different blades that will fit your mower.
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2015, 11:36 AM
dsynan dsynan is offline
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Thanks. Tried that. They only offer the gator mulch blade and it's only slightly thicker than 1/8 at .16

Thinking I might just have to try a new stock blade and be sure to avoid that rock again... just frustrated that the blade bent soo easily. It's obvious that the notch that is taken out the back of the blade for whatever reason is causing a weak point in the blade and that's exactly where the bend is.
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  #6  
Old 05-29-2015, 11:37 AM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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I already looked up your blades on Oregon's site. There is no G6 blade for the 54" Toro decks used under the Titan ZX or MX. They do make and list the G3 which is considered a high lift blade. I have a set of G3's on a mower deck I have, and they work great. It is not a Toro, but still, they throw the grass just fine.

Using a 1/4" blade on a machine that was designed for .203" blades can be hard on the PTO clutch, and can take a lot of power to spin them, so your QOC may drop off noticeably.
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Originally Posted by Darryl G
I can also tell by looking back to see how they're hanging and often reach back and feel them to see how firm they are.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:40 AM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsynan View Post
Thanks. Tried that. They only offer the gator mulch blade and it's only slightly thicker than 1/8 at .16

Thinking I might just have to try a new stock blade and be sure to avoid that rock again... just frustrated that the blade bent soo easily. It's obvious that the notch that is taken out the back of the blade for whatever reason is causing a weak point in the blade and that's exactly where the bend is.
You have this all wrong. The notch is to create the ability to form the lift sail without creating a weak area that will crack/tear from forming the bend for the sail. Any blade spinning at 18K FPM can bend when hitting rock, 1/4" blades included. Believe me, most anyone who mows for a living knows this.


My deck came with .250" blades, so switching to the G6 actually uses less power since my OEM blades have more lift and are heavier. If you want to read a ton about the G6 which is .250" thick, and how many guys experienced a loss of power using them under machines designed for thinner blades, read this thread-

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...w+G6+blades%3F
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Originally Posted by Darryl G
I can also tell by looking back to see how they're hanging and often reach back and feel them to see how firm they are.
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  #8  
Old 05-29-2015, 11:55 AM
dsynan dsynan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ridin' Green View Post
You have this all wrong. The notch is to create the ability to form the lift sail without creating a weak area that will crack/tear from forming the bend for the sail. Any blade spinning at 18K FPM can bend when hitting rock, 1/4" blades included. Believe me, most anyone who mows for a living knows this.


My deck came with .250" blades, so switching to the G6 actually uses less power since my OEM blades have more lift and are heavier. If you want to read a ton about the G6 which is .250" thick, and how many guys experienced a loss of power using them under machines designed for thinner blades, read this thread-

http://www.lawnsite.com/showthread.p...w+G6+blades%3F
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  #9  
Old 05-29-2015, 11:56 AM
dsynan dsynan is offline
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Makes sense. Gonna have to be more careful out there. Just trying to figure this all out as it's my first legit mower. Doesn't help that I have my father in law in my ear, "should have bought a Deere, my JD has thicker blades, blah blah"
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  #10  
Old 05-29-2015, 12:11 PM
Ridin' Green Ridin' Green is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsynan View Post
Makes sense. Gonna have to be more careful out there. Just trying to figure this all out as it's my first legit mower. Doesn't help that I have my father in law in my ear, "should have bought a Deere, my JD has thicker blades, blah blah"
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I run a JD and they do have thicker blades, but they will bend as well when you hit something hard like a root or rock. What height are you cutting at? For northern turf, 3.5" is a really good height, and it helps avoid a lot of issues from cutting 3" and below. Also, set your gauge wheels to be about 1/2" above a smooth flat surface once you get your HOC set where you want it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darryl G
I can also tell by looking back to see how they're hanging and often reach back and feel them to see how firm they are.
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