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  #31  
Old 10-08-2012, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith View Post
The only synthetic I ever had the missing oil problem with was Mobil 1. It would always be more noticeable toward the end of the drain interval. Perhaps things have changed, I was an early-adopter of synthetic. I was quite content with running it, thinking it must have been a problem with every engine I owned. I finally connected the dots when back ten years ago or so when I ran out of Mobil 1 for my F150, and no one had it one sale. I figured, what the heck and went with conventional oil. Lo and behold, the consumption problem went away. Switched the Lazer EFI back to conventional, same result.
Interesting....

I wonder if it is the EFI that makes the difference. I'm not sure how much consumption you had....if it was less than a qt., i don't think that would be unusual....especially if you were running long drain intervals.

I will def. monitor the mowers more closely with the M1, see if there is a lot of loss, if it all.....
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  #32  
Old 10-08-2012, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by weaver122876 View Post
You know who i feel sorry for is the people who just don't know and listen to these threads instead of following there owners manual. Then when there warranty isn't honored i guess lawnsite or whoever can honor it.
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I feel sorry for people that keep beating a point to death when they have already been heard, acknowledged and dismissed.

Florida I am sure your results will come back just fine. Given the extreme heat, sand, moisture etc that our engines face in our climate I am interested in seeing your results. I have one awaiting me to find time to run to the post office for so long I think I am going to just dismiss it. It was Mobil 1 and I have since switched over to Amsoil 4 stroke so would be more interested in its results as I intend to continue using it.
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  #33  
Old 10-09-2012, 06:45 AM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weaver122876 View Post
Now I'm just asking, but why do most all small engine manufacturers recommend changing the oil Evey 50 hours and filter 100 hours? To me it just seems like it's not worth the risk. There was another guy here that sent his in and they said at 150 hours it was still good. I just se all the guys that get big hours out of there engines stay strictly to the 50/100 hour guideline.
I've never had a commercial engine that was 50/100. They've always been 100/200. I'm closing in on 2,000 hours on that engine so it's a good bet that extended oil changes aren't hurting a thing. Also, ever since the engine was new, when I run it hard it uses a little oil. Over the course of the first 100 hours I probably put 1/2 quart of additional oil in it. That replenishes the oil additives package. I knew that at 100 hours the oil was still fine.

I was also one of the first guys to talk about using Amsoil Saber at 80:1 here at Lawnsite. That was pure heresy back then. Everybody told me I was crazy and my 2 stroke equipment would literally explode right in my hands. Now a lot of people are using Amsoil at 80:1 with no ill effects.

There is nothing wrong with extending OCI as long as you have the oil tested. The simple fact is, if the oil is still good, and in my case it was by a wide margin, then why drain it out? Especially when some of these oils you guys are using have really high TBN, around 12 in the case of the premium synthetics.
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  #34  
Old 10-09-2012, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Sharkey View Post
Politics, religion, and oil all subjects sure to stir up opinions.

Florida keep us posted on the results. If possible i would like to see if there is any gasoline in the oil, and in what percentage. Also is this a carb or FI engine.
Type of oil and filter also.

Thanks
Here is mine at 148 hours. The filter was a Purolator Pure 1 and a Amsoil bypass. The oil is regular Pennzoil 10w30.

No fuel in the oil. Fuel Injected.


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  #35  
Old 10-09-2012, 06:59 AM
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An interesting note on my oil test. I just noticed this. Check out the amount of zinc in the oil. It is surprisingly high for a modern oil. Zinc is a major lubricant particularly in engines like ours where the lifters slide across the cam.
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  #36  
Old 10-09-2012, 09:27 AM
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Any thoughts on running straight 30 weight oil vs. 10w30? My Kawasaki manual recommends either one, but says 30 weight when temps outside are high. I've been using 30 weight all the time. I suppose fuel consumption may be slightly lower with thinner oil, though I'm not concerned about fuel consumption. I'm most concerned with what's the absolute best for the protection of the engine.
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  #37  
Old 10-09-2012, 11:10 AM
FMC1959 FMC1959 is offline
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[QUOTE=Aleman;4547902]
Quote:
Originally Posted by Florida Gardener View Post
B/c at those changes.....you will surely for the most part, not run into any issues....BUT....car manufacturers say to change you motor oil at 3-K. Most mechanics will tell you on dino oil you can go to 5-K these days. I run Amsoil in my Tundra and go to 15-K. An oil report doesn't lie.

What car manufacturer recommends 3k?
I have not checked my current vehicle's manual, but my previous vehicles always stated 6k under normal use or 3k under intense use, or heavy duty, or term like that. To me, this is the easy out for MFR's. They don,t have the time and money to do testing on every oil out there. Plus they can't for see all different conditions every owner will use their car or truck. Lots of highway, always in the city, always towing a 3k trailer, lots of idling, lots of dust....allconditins which will determine how long before the oil breaks down.

The MFR does not know if the consumer will use 29 cents/quart no name oil, or the most soph!isticated oil on the market, so their recommended oil change is conservative enough to cover their butt. I know with small engines, lawnmowers, handheld...etc, major tests to see why an engine failed costs to much vs the price of the small engines. Most dealers take out the plug or remove the head and if there isn't,t ant damning evidence of oil related failure, it gets passed under warranty, the MFR won't question the call.

For cars and trucks, I don't know the process, but figure the would check a bit more due to the cost of replacing the engine. I know the laws can very from state to state, but pretty sure MFR ha to have evidence of oil related engine failure before denying a claim.

I think most guys doing extended intervals with synthetics care about their equipment, which is why they bother to pay more for better quality oil. This forum and others would be full of engine failures and denied claims over the years if synthetics were just BS.

I have used synthetics in my cars,trucks, and small engines since the early 80's and have never had any problems. BTW, I haven't used a bottle of Mobil1 in more than 20 years. Back then it would say 100 synthetic with a small asterisk and on the back it would say "not including carrier oil" making it not a true synthetic; do today's bottles still say this?
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  #38  
Old 10-09-2012, 11:41 AM
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Richard, if I am reading the chart correctly, it actually does show something under .5% fuel contamination, which I assume to mean there is fuel present, but a negligible amount.
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  #39  
Old 10-09-2012, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by MOturkey View Post
Richard, if I am reading the chart correctly, it actually does show something under .5% fuel contamination, which I assume to mean there is fuel present, but a negligible amount.
It could be 0.00%. Who knows? It only says less than 0.5%. That may be the lowest that the program goes. The tech that did the analysis said there was no fuel present.
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  #40  
Old 10-09-2012, 12:36 PM
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I change my oil every 40/50hrs and I'm still running a old 96 52" 16hp vanguard with doubles the hour meter broke at 1800hrs ys ago, I do believe its good maintance on your equipment. Marks mowing Service
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