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#11
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How do you grade a lawn with a rake and shovel I know and seen ppl seed behind a tiller that makes a lumpy lawn My prep stage Run a 6ft tiller grade it with skidloader Final prep Run my 8ft Turf Shaper this leaves 4-6'' a light compress topsoil to seed on |
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#12
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Posted via Mobile Device |
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#13
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if you have the right tools to do it, it can be profitable. We've always offered spring/fall garden tilling and with a scut and 48" tiller along with a 12" plow and a set of discs it's not bad at all. Usually for a 25x50 plot we can make $400+. It's a couple day process, plow and till one day, disc a couple days later, but usually a total of about 3 hours of work.
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#14
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Best thing I can tell you Live and Learn Price one if you make good time and make ur hour rate and extra then you have price it right If you price to cheap and takes to long you know next time to chargee more |
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#15
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I tilled it up and raked it smooth as I covered the seed... I didn't even walk on it because I stayed ahead of the tiller... Yes, it can be done and should be done on smaller new lawns and can be considered derelict, not to(unless its just sand of course)... Tilling is just about the most important last step, though I agree that if the area becomes too large it is no longer practical... For the amount of money I charged the widow for that few hours of work, it wouldn't have made sense to even start up the skidster and compact the soil, before seeding... many factors play into the best way to do a job, but the professional results of a perfect lawn comes first... I don't care how much squirt&fert one dumps onto compacted soil here with the cool season grasses, the ill-effects from compaction seldom ever goes away...
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* Water/air ratio in relation to water flow to/from any plantlife is a Basic Fundamental Concept in understanding seed germination as much as transplanting a 20' Maple tree in 90 degree weather... * |
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