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  #21  
Old 11-21-2012, 06:18 PM
larryinalabama larryinalabama is online now
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3/8 amd 1/2 inch is what mechanics use. 3/4 is more for taking off big truck lugs.

3/4 sockets will be a lot harder to find and higher in price.
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  #22  
Old 11-21-2012, 06:41 PM
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To get the advertised performance on 3/4 drive and larger impact wrenches, you have to use 1/2 ID air hose..
3/8 hose will not deliver the volume of air pressure needed for the tool to reach peak performance..
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  #23  
Old 11-21-2012, 06:47 PM
Darryl G Darryl G is offline
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My battery powered 15.6V impact wrench does fine for getting blades on/off unless I hit something hard, in which case I use a breaker bar or corded impact wrench. Air impact wrench is fine for the shop, but what about when you're on location working. I can use my cordless and corded impact wrenches anywhere.
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  #24  
Old 11-21-2012, 08:58 PM
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LarryF LarryF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darryl gesner View Post
My battery powered 15.6V impact wrench does fine for getting blades on/off unless I hit something hard, in which case I use a breaker bar or corded impact wrench. Air impact wrench is fine for the shop, but what about when you're on location working. I can use my cordless and corded impact wrenches anywhere.
Your points are well taken, Darryl, but no breaker bar will unloosen this bolt because the spindle turns when the applied torque gets high enough. I'm hoping that it'll be the rapid dynamics of the impact wrench that will do the trick. I suspect that 1000 ft # would be an overkill, but I don't want to get something that is marginally adequate. The repair shop I sometimes go to has one that is 1250 ft #, but it's a $500 tool. I thought this one for a hundred would be a reasonable compromise. Can anyone tell me what a maximum value should be?
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  #25  
Old 11-22-2012, 11:57 AM
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ed2hess ed2hess is offline
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I didn't read the entire thread but this is what I use and we have several different kinds of mowers.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-c3-19...p-00917090000P

I also use it for my truck and trailer tires. Iprefer the spindle type where the bolt goes thru the inside of spindle with nut on top. The other kinds can be a problem but I NEVER had a situation where I couldn't get the bolt out by using a piece of wood and clamp to block the blade.
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  #26  
Old 11-22-2012, 12:11 PM
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JB1 JB1 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryF View Post
Your points are well taken, Darryl, but no breaker bar will unloosen this bolt because the spindle turns when the applied torque gets high enough. I'm hoping that it'll be the rapid dynamics of the impact wrench that will do the trick. I suspect that 1000 ft # would be an overkill, but I don't want to get something that is marginally adequate. The repair shop I sometimes go to has one that is 1250 ft #, but it's a $500 tool. I thought this one for a hundred would be a reasonable compromise. Can anyone tell me what a maximum value should be?


kinda like using a 3/4" ratchet to take a 1/2" bolt out, overkill, but it will work.
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  #27  
Old 11-22-2012, 12:32 PM
slowleak1 slowleak1 is offline
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Get the 3/4 since you already have sockets. Do not heat the bolt unless you intend on replacing the spindles, as you will fry the grease inside them.
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  #28  
Old 11-22-2012, 01:00 PM
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BigFish BigFish is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryF View Post
Your points are well taken, Darryl, but no breaker bar will unloosen this bolt because the spindle turns when the applied torque gets high enough. I'm hoping that it'll be the rapid dynamics of the impact wrench that will do the trick. I suspect that 1000 ft # would be an overkill, but I don't want to get something that is marginally adequate. The repair shop I sometimes go to has one that is 1250 ft #, but it's a $500 tool. I thought this one for a hundred would be a reasonable compromise. Can anyone tell me what a maximum value should be?
Whaddaya take yer stuff to a TRUCK repair/tire shop?
Are you people goofy????? 3/4" impact for blades, really??? W.T.F.? "Rapid dynamics of the impact wrench" ???
Spend a couple of bucks and get a serious 3/8" impact like this one :
http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet.c...TiMAX.asp?rt=2
It's all I ever use or need. It will take off wheel hub nuts, lug nuts, etc. Is light, and easy to handle while yer under a deck. I guarantee it will remove/tighten any spindle bolt ya got!
I've had mine for several years now with zero problems.
'Course it ain't a $100 H.F POS but ya get what ya pay for...........
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Last edited by BigFish; 11-22-2012 at 01:05 PM.
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  #29  
Old 11-22-2012, 07:10 PM
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piston slapper piston slapper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowleak1 View Post
Get the 3/4 since you already have sockets. Do not heat the bolt unless you intend on replacing the spindles, as you will fry the grease inside them.
Not true....
You use an oxy/acetelyne torch...heat the bolt head and only the bolt head ....quickly...
The spindlebolt lengthen with heat...and wrenches right off...
If you use a wimpy torch you will end up heating everything including the bearings.
I've done more than my share of them...they ALL came right off....no cooked bearings..
Did burn myself once instinctively picking up the spindlebolt....wear gloves...
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  #30  
Old 11-23-2012, 09:57 AM
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LarryF LarryF is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piston slapper View Post
Not true....
You use an oxy/acetelyne torch...heat the bolt head and only the bolt head ....quickly...
The spindlebolt lengthen with heat...and wrenches right off...
If you use a wimpy torch you will end up heating everything including the bearings.
I've done more than my share of them...they ALL came right off....no cooked bearings..
Did burn myself once instinctively picking up the spindlebolt....wear gloves...
Thanks for elaborating on what kind of torch to use. I would have tried the heat thing with a propane torch I use for plumbing jobs in my home, but the tank was empty and I haven't yet gotten around to replacing it. That was good luck, I guess, because it sounds like I might have just created more problems for myself if I had tried in on the blade bolt. And I don't have an oxy-acetylene torch either, so getting the air-impact wrench sounds like the best approach for me. I can see why others would prefer a smaller battery-powered one, but I'm just a home owner and won't be taking this anywhere away from my compressor. I've already placed the order for the 3/4" thousand ft # air-driven one, and by the way, there turned out to be a $20 discount on it (maybe because of black Friday), So altogether with shipping and sales tax, it turned out to be 93 bucks, and if this works and most of you seem to think it will, my blade-removal problems are solved for the rest of my life. I'll let you know how I make out after the tool arrives.

Thanks everyone for the advice. Hope you all had a great Thankgiving and my condolences to any of you who are Jets fans.
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