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  #131  
Old 01-30-2013, 09:51 PM
pjm123a pjm123a is offline
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Hi Dboyd, You are not raining on my parade. I welcome the feedback. Of the carbs on your link only one is my exact model. I will probably pull the plug on it. Worse case is I have it for backup or a source of parts. Thanks
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  #132  
Old 01-31-2013, 02:31 AM
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Richard Martin Richard Martin is offline
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Originally Posted by pjm123a View Post
Hi ed2. It is connected. I don't know for sure that it is working. I am doing some research to see how to test it. I thought however that the solenoid is used to prevent back-firing at engine shutdown. I did not think it would prevent the engine from starting and running even if it was disconnected. Are you saying that it could be the culprit?
The solenoid closes and shuts off the supply of fuel when the power is turned off to it. The test is to put 12 volts to it and see if you can hear it opening and closing when the power is removed. Another thing I haven't seen you mention is the fuel pump. Have you confirmed that it is working?
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  #133  
Old 01-31-2013, 07:48 AM
teckjohn teckjohn is offline
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Nice work youve done!!!

First off the fuel solenoid shuts off the fuel when the key is off. you can hear it clik when u turn the key off and on. i think that it has a green wire the is in the main engine harness take a test light and make sure when u turn the key on u are getting power to the carb. Take ur line off where it goes to the carb and make sure fuel is coming all the way to the carb. make sure the ground wire to the solenoid is connected to one of the bolts on the carb. If no fire to the carb solenoid, hook a wire from the batt direct to the solenoid and see if it cliks. if it does leave it connected and try to start it. Let me know. And again. VERY NICE WORK!!!
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  #134  
Old 01-31-2013, 08:20 AM
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piston slapper piston slapper is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Richard Martin View Post
The solenoid closes and shuts off the supply of fuel when the power is turned off to it. The test is to put 12 volts to it and see if you can hear it opening and closing when the power is removed. Another thing I haven't seen you mention is the fuel pump. Have you confirmed that it is working?
Good advice...
If the solenoid doesn't pull in with 12v...you can usually get them to work by removing it and cleaning it with brake cleaner...once the plunger is freed up...you should be good to go..
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  #135  
Old 01-31-2013, 05:48 PM
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Landrus2 Landrus2 is offline
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That is one hell of a project looking good
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  #136  
Old 01-31-2013, 06:18 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is online now
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Fuse blows all the time on scag and that keeps the selenoid from actuating. So the engine will start and run a few revs then shut off.....and that is because no fuel. Been tricked a lot of times.
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  #137  
Old 02-01-2013, 07:51 PM
pjm123a pjm123a is offline
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Thanks for all the suggestions guys. She's now a runner. The problem was the fuel solenoid but it was not without a few twists and turns. The research I did said you could test the darn thing with a 9 volt battery. Seemed easy enough. My problem was that I couldn't get the solenoid off the carb bowl. When I tried to spin it off by grabbing the metal housing, the entire housing would spin. I wanted to grab the neck which looked like it was slotted so you could get a wrench on it but every wrench I had was too thick (see first pic). Finally I grabbed on of my cheaper wrenches and just ground it down a bit on a bench grinder to make it thinner (second pic). After that, I put the carb in a vise and used the thinned down wrench to unscrew the solenoid. It took some effort and did not want to come out of there. I had sprayed some penetrating oil on it the day before so that may have helped. The last pic shows the wrench that did the job and the solenoid separated from the bowl. Sure enough there was some gunk in there. A couple of spritzes with some carb cleaner and I was able to push the plunger without much force. I connected just the solenoid to its wiring, turned the key to the on positioned and observed the plunger re-tract. Buttoned up the carb and gave her a try. She started up and ran. Now I'm not gonna say it runs good but it runs. It seems to rev up and down instead of run smoothly. I think that is OK because it indicates the governor is trying to work. The choke is not connected (I had to diddle it manually to get it to start cold). This is because of the connector that got broken off. I brought a whole new carb on ebay that was cheaper than what new parts cost to fix the choke connector. Between my carb and the ebay carb I will get it fully connected and I am hoping it will then run fine. Can anyone verify that for the governor to work correctly you need both the throttle line and the choke line connected? Thanks for all the advice on the solenoid. You guys were right on the money.
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  #138  
Old 02-01-2013, 08:09 PM
teckjohn teckjohn is offline
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turn both gov arm and shaft counter clockwise

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  #139  
Old 02-02-2013, 02:55 PM
Darryl G Darryl G is offline
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The first thing I usually do when I have an engine running uneven is to add some Star Tron fuel treament and let it run a bit, then shut it off and let it sit a day or so. It's about as close to being a miracle in a bottle as I've found. Of course, it doesn't have a bunch of little mechanics in it, so if there's a mechanical problem it's not gonna fix it.
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  #140  
Old 02-04-2013, 03:34 PM
firewoosh firewoosh is offline
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Bump. Update?
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