Register free!
Search
 
     

The Green Industry's Resource Center


Click for Weather
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-03-2012, 05:50 PM
Steiner Steiner is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central NY
Posts: 364
Hemlock Yellowing can you help?

Central NY landscaper here. I have some yellowing of two hemlocks I installed in late spring. Here are the details:

Details:

Zone 5 Syracuse
Installed in late June
Clay soils
Full to partial sun
Amended soils with 50% compost.
Hole was 2x the size of root ball
Pierced holes in hole to aid in drainage.
Did great all summer and fall. Lush and green. Despite drought.
Customer burlapped trees to protect from drying winds. Not to my specs!

Customer sprayed a desicant product on a few weeks ago before burlapping, then called me last week to come out for yellowing leaves. Hmmmm...

Problem:

Yellowing inside. Green lush inside.

I went over and checked for wooly adelgid but could find no white wool or the reddish pests. I also did the white paper test for spider mites but came back negative. I don't really know what rust looks like but I am hoping someone can clear that up.

As you can see from the pictures I found yellow tips but a nice green inside. Other hemlocks 2 houses down are lush and green. My thoughts are either this product he sprayed, sun scald, or wind damage since the affected area is surface only. He also tends to over do things and I wondered if he watered too much.

Can you help me? Any ideas? I will also post this on arborsite.com.

-Thanks Chris
Attached Images
     
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-04-2012, 11:20 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,793
In clays soils, I always check the moisture level of the soil, first... then I look at the new growth of the surface roots...
If this is a case of 'chlorosis' then soil moisture is the first logical cause...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-04-2012, 06:41 PM
Steiner Steiner is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central NY
Posts: 364
Small axe...thanks

Ok good point. I am checking with the homeowner to see exactly what he applied.

I wonder if he added the sprayed anti-desicant too early before the tree was dormant? We have had some cold weather then really warm weather here lately.

-Chris
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-04-2012, 06:48 PM
4 seasons lawn&land's Avatar
4 seasons lawn&land 4 seasons lawn&land is offline
LawnSite Gold Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 3,238
looks like some spruce trees I planted in a spot that was way too wet.
So soon after the spraying makes it seem like it was that though
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-09-2012, 11:58 AM
Steiner Steiner is offline
LawnSite Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Central NY
Posts: 364
Update.....

Ok customer did say they were yellowing before he sprayed a product called wilt-pruf. I believe him.

My final diagnosis is chlorosis from too much water. He was watering every week with 2-4 5 gallon buckets each.

I would imagine the clay subsoil was not letting the water drain.

So what should I do in that case next time I hit overly hard clay?

1. Raise the ball up and add soil
2. drill drainage holes into the bowl (although it is all clay anyway)
3. Backfill with all clay to remove void space for water to sit.

Could I remedy this by adding a clay cap so to speak above the roots to lessen infiltration of water?

What do you guys do?
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-10-2012, 09:36 AM
Smallaxe Smallaxe is online now
LawnSite Fanatic
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Central Wisconsin
Posts: 9,793
We are fortunate here in that, the areas that have clay only have a 2-3 foot layer, so I dig down to the gravel an backfill with ammendments...
If that isn't possible, I would imagine that a convex base of the hole under the rootball, may indeed work...
Your idea of capping the top of the ground so the water runs away is also a good idea,,, but I always like to be able to dump water into the soil immediately around the trunk...
If you're able to keep the roots wet right at the base of the tree, it won't matter how dry it gets at the drip line... so just estimate how much water it would take to soak up the root ball once a week and use only that amount after your air bubble soaking at planting time...
You might have to monitor plantings for the first couple of weeks personally, just to figure out the correct watering schedule for the h.o. on a case by case basis...

I charge for 2 or 3 visits in the cost of planting just becuz I hate to yell at the client for killing or damaging a plant...
__________________
*
Now that I know that clay's texture(platelets) has nothing to do with water infiltration, percolation, or drainage
,,, I wonder what does...
*
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump





Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©1998 - 2012, LawnSite.comô - Moose River Media
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:12 PM.

Page generated in 0.08862 seconds with 10 queries