adding some organics to a traditional program

[grassmasterswilson]

Can anyone shed some light on this? I run a traditional program of fertilizer. usually 3-4 lbs of N per year depending on the turf. Fescue gets lime and warm season gets lime based on a soil test.

The heat takes a huge toll on our fescue and by the end of summer the fescue it pretty much burned up.

So i'm curious about switching out a traditional fert app for an organic one. I know the cost may be higher but if I can improve the soil and see great improvements if may pay off.

I use a z spray so I could mix liquid in with a herbicide round. I also thought about milorginite as a fert app, but think the rate is extremely high.

Looking for products or ideas that might work. Better times to apply?

[RigglePLC]

you need a "bridge product"--partially organic--partially conventional slow release nitrogen. Best of both worlds--costs more of course. Sock it on--it will perk up when rain happens.
And if you have a big hot spell...you need a lot of seed.

[Smallaxe]

That main thing that needs doing for the soil,,, which helps the roots,,, whichhelp the heat resistance is building up of SOM... increasing not only the CEC but water retention as well... after all, those nutrients attached to the CE sites, are not available with either,,, too much water or too little water...

If you talking about buying organic products to supply NPK in an organic form, you're just throwing away money... rotted leaves contribute the majority of the NPK contamination to our lakes and streams, its just that the abuse of synthetic fertilizers are so easily abused and so easily washed into storm sewers...

Urea from dog urine is no "Safer" than urea from any other source... And P from Bone Meal is still the same P found in rocks...

What sort of addition were you considering???

[mikesturf]

I use products similar to Screaming Green (sponsor).

My organic based fertilizers have the typical synthetic granular fertilizer along with Milorganite and Composted chicken manure. I get great results. As Riggle said, its a bridge program-using both synthetic and organic.

[grassmasterswilson]

Thanks guys

I have a solid program applying te proper amount of nitrogen. It is based out our local university recommendations.

I do lime base on soil test if the customer request it or I can suggest it. It is an add on service.

I was thinking some organic products might help improve the soil structure and benefit the overall long term Ralph of the soil.

I could be wrong and organic information is something hard to find in my area. Since it isn't a big business or requested very often.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Smallaxe]

What is "...long term Ralph of the soil..." mean???

[grassmasterswilson]

Originally Posted by Smallaxe

What is "...long term Ralph of the soil..." mean???

Health of the soil.....sorry on my iPhone with spellcheck.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Smallaxe]

OK,,, I thought it was some sort of acronym, I'd never heard of...

Do you believe that a 1/4" of compost would have enough N for at least one of your apps???

[jonthepain]

We've had great results the last couple of seasons here in Raleigh with our bridge program by adding soluble humate to our liquid fert solution. It's not expensive, either.

PM me and I'll give you my supplier's info. The stuff is ridiculously hard to get. You'd think it would be easy to buy about anything if you were ready to write a check...

[ELS Landscape]

I like Humates too but they will tie up some weed control products, IIRCC the pre-ems. I will stop adding the humates to my pre-em mixes but will keep it in my other mixes and go lighter on the actual fertilizers.