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  #21  
Old 12-22-2012, 05:27 PM
Monroe74 Monroe74 is offline
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Ford F-250, oil leak on the head gasket

Man you struck a nerve slow here are more people that have put studs in without pulling the cab or motor. http://www.competitiondiesel.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97296
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  #22  
Old 12-23-2012, 05:04 AM
slowleak1 slowleak1 is offline
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Nice link to a thread full of people saying to either pull the motor, pull the cab, or use CUSTOM MADE tools. And an allen wrench? on head studs? Let me know how long that allen wrench lasts when you try and torque the studs.
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  #23  
Old 12-23-2012, 09:40 AM
AWJ Services AWJ Services is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowleak1 View Post
Nice link to a thread full of people saying to either pull the motor, pull the cab, or use CUSTOM MADE tools. And an allen wrench? on head studs? Let me know how long that allen wrench lasts when you try and torque the studs.
You do not torque the stud, you torque the nut on the stud. Studs must be installed hand tight!
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  #24  
Old 12-23-2012, 12:04 PM
Monroe74 Monroe74 is offline
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Ford F-250, oil leak on the head gasket

You use the allen wrench to install the studs then you tighten the nuts with a torque wrench and the snap on SRD35 torque adpater witha 18mm 12 point socket, you obviously have never bought arp head studs in your life nor have you seen them. So this argument is mute.
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  #25  
Old 12-23-2012, 12:13 PM
Monroe74 Monroe74 is offline
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Ford F-250, oil leak on the head gasket

I thought you'd like that link it just proved that you don't have to pull the cab.
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  #26  
Old 12-23-2012, 12:17 PM
Monroe74 Monroe74 is offline
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Ford F-250, oil leak on the head gasket

Guess posts 5 and 6 dont say anything on that link?
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  #27  
Old 12-23-2012, 12:56 PM
Monroe74 Monroe74 is offline
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Ford F-250, oil leak on the head gasket

A video no studs in there but more people talking about not pulling the cab or motor.
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/209313-time-lapse-6-0-head-gaskets-cab.html
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  #28  
Old 01-01-2013, 09:24 AM
Roger Roger is offline
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Update:

I have decided to do nothing right now. I know there is a problem, but manageable for a few months, at least. Between Dec 31 and Mar 15, I only drive 300-400 miles. I go through one tank of fuel during Jan and Feb.

I've driven very little the past two weeks, and don't see any spotting.

I had my eye on a 2012 F-250XL, but the dealer never followed through with getting me final information. I suppose they were so busy pushing out vehicles near the end of the year, a $27K vehicle was not worth the time. Also, in talking with my financial folks, the changes in taxes for 2013, I may be better to take the hit in 2013, not 2012. Putting a new vehicle on the road during the Winter months for so little driving was probably not a good idea either.

However, I am still thinking the $3K repair may be the best path for me. I will know better my long-term plans by mid-March, and the need of a work truck. I will be 72 next time around, and need to start making plans to wind down.

Thanks so much for all the comments and contributions to my thread. I appreciated the input.
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  #29  
Old 01-01-2013, 03:55 PM
sjessen sjessen is online now
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Much wisdom in your thought process. Appreciate your sharing it with us.

Would love to read your thoughts about winding down as I am not that far behind you in years and am thinking towards the future myself.

All the best.
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  #30  
Old 01-01-2013, 06:11 PM
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jsslawncare jsslawncare is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slowleak1 View Post
Nice link to a thread full of people saying to either pull the motor, pull the cab, or use CUSTOM MADE tools. And an allen wrench? on head studs? Let me know how long that allen wrench lasts when you try and torque the studs.
You don't torque the stud's, you torque the nut's that go on the stud's.
I would not buy any replacement motor to replace this problem. I'd say that 3 out of 10 rebuilt engines are JUNK. Patched together junk.

72? That change's everything. I'd trade that peace of junk in for a rocking chair!
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