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  #11  
Old 01-11-2013, 06:00 PM
AkRowdyA78 AkRowdyA78 is offline
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Originally Posted by Monroe74 View Post
Have you taken the drum off already? If you take the axle bearing off it should come off with the wheel and exposing the back of the drum so you can grind the stud off.
I dont even have the wheel off yet, because of the spinning nut and stud. I think I'll end up cutting the nut off. Hopefully then I can take the wheel off and hit the stud through with a hammer.
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  #12  
Old 01-11-2013, 06:10 PM
jones68 jones68 is offline
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You can pull the drum and rim off at the same time
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  #13  
Old 01-12-2013, 01:44 AM
Monroe74 Monroe74 is offline
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Spinning Lug nut and stud

To get the wheel and drum off without removing the wheel.
1 remove dust cap from axle
2 loosen nut inside axle
3 remove washer
4 pull wheel and brake drum will come off with wheel also a tapered roller bearing will drop out.
It will be a good idea to clean and repack bearing and inspect brakes and wiring if trailer is equip.
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  #14  
Old 01-12-2013, 02:20 AM
weaver weaver is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monroe74 View Post
To get the wheel and drum off without removing the wheel.
1 remove dust cap from axle
2 loosen nut inside axle
3 remove washer
4 pull wheel and brake drum will come off with wheel also a tapered roller bearing will drop out.
It will be a good idea to clean and repack bearing and inspect brakes and wiring if trailer is equip.
What he said...
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  #15  
Old 01-12-2013, 03:43 PM
AkRowdyA78 AkRowdyA78 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monroe74 View Post
To get the wheel and drum off without removing the wheel.
1 remove dust cap from axle
2 loosen nut inside axle
3 remove washer
4 pull wheel and brake drum will come off with wheel also a tapered roller bearing will drop out.
It will be a good idea to clean and repack bearing and inspect brakes and wiring if trailer is equip.
I did what you said, and it seemed to work pretty good. I don't have brakes on my trailer so I didn't worry about that part. I just took the whole wheel/rotor to a shop and he charged me $15 bucks to torch the old stud out and put a new one in. The only thing I have left to do is put the bearings back in.
- When I took out the washer it had a tit on it. Im not sure which way it should be facing. I thinking towards the nut, but I thought I'd ask. Also found it funny there was no cotter pin. Not even a hole in the nut for one.
Thanks everyone for your help thus far.
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  #16  
Old 01-12-2013, 07:49 PM
AkRowdyA78 AkRowdyA78 is offline
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This is the piece that I was talking about. Looks that there should be two points instead of one.
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  #17  
Old 01-12-2013, 07:51 PM
weaver weaver is offline
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Originally Posted by AkRowdyA78 View Post
This is the piece that I was talking about. Looks that there should be two points instead of one.
I think your washer is messed up...
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  #18  
Old 01-12-2013, 07:55 PM
AkRowdyA78 AkRowdyA78 is offline
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Yeah I wonder if that's the only piece I should replace. They other bearings aren't scorched and look to be in good condition.
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  #19  
Old 01-12-2013, 07:58 PM
weaver weaver is offline
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Originally Posted by AkRowdyA78 View Post
Yeah I wonder if that's the only piece I should replace. They other bearings aren't scorched and look to be in good condition.
I would just clean everything up and check the spindle and everything else for damage and go from there.. Probably just replace the washer and all should be fine...
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  #20  
Old 01-13-2013, 10:16 AM
Monroe74 Monroe74 is offline
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Spinning Lug nut and stud

Definitely not right clean everything up check your bearings after they are clean.
They should move freely no snagging there should be no burn marks and no pitting on the bearing or the races.
Only thing i can tell from pic is one of two things happened the bearing was put on to tight or it wasnt greased enough most trailer recommend greasing the axles every 3k cheaper ones more often.
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