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  #11  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:14 AM
ecurbthims ecurbthims is offline
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you could also run a battery disconnect switch
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  #12  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:17 AM
pitrack pitrack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecurbthims View Post
I wouldnt run any smaller wire than that ,and would probably run something like a 4/0 if it was mine ,but it gets pricey for real wire .Theres another style plug available ,its round like a transport trailer plug,but only has one huge connector in the centre ,they are used to power transport trailers with lift gates .You can get them at a truck supply place ,and they are designed for exactly what your doing .
If I go this route do you think I could get by with just running a hot wire from my truck and no ground since the trailer should already be grounded?
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  #13  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:22 AM
ecurbthims ecurbthims is offline
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the 10 guage might charge the battery,but it would not help at all if the battery in the trailer gets run down and is counting on the trucks battery to dump the load .Also,depending on how much run time between dumping the battery might not be charged well enough with the little wire .
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  #14  
Old 01-16-2013, 11:30 AM
ecurbthims ecurbthims is offline
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checkout a philiips 15-335 plug ,and yes,if you have a good ground through your hitch etc,you will be fine .
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  #15  
Old 01-16-2013, 03:42 PM
pitrack pitrack is offline
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Ended up getting one of these in a male and female, then two caps. Hopefully they will work and keep everything waterproof. I also got two 175amp fuses one for each battery end.


http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...rue&sst=subset
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  #16  
Old 01-16-2013, 05:52 PM
Kepple Services Kepple Services is offline
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I would not count on the ground being the best going through the ball.. Many wiring issues are caused by bad grounds on trailers, and with the amperage that a 4gauge wire can hold things will be getting hot FAST. The plug I showed you is not affected much by weather and carries both the ground and hot leads. You bolt the ground leads to the frame of the truck and the trailer and have a bullet proof ground at that point. The 150 amp fuse is only for overload protection, If you blow it something BAD happened but prevented a fire that a dead shoted 4gause wire WILL cause.
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  #17  
Old 01-16-2013, 07:52 PM
pitrack pitrack is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kepple Services View Post
I would not count on the ground being the best going through the ball.. Many wiring issues are caused by bad grounds on trailers, and with the amperage that a 4gauge wire can hold things will be getting hot FAST. The plug I showed you is not affected much by weather and carries both the ground and hot leads. You bolt the ground leads to the frame of the truck and the trailer and have a bullet proof ground at that point. The 150 amp fuse is only for overload protection, If you blow it something BAD happened but prevented a fire that a dead shoted 4gause wire WILL cause.
Hmm so now I'm not sure how I will make the connector work that I just bought. The one you posted looks like it could get corroded rather quick sitting behind the bumper of my truck when it is not connected. It's also only made for a 10-12 gauge wire. I'm not sure how I would make that work with a 4 gauge.
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  #18  
Old 01-16-2013, 08:02 PM
pitrack pitrack is offline
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I guess I'm just confused as to why the ground on the trailer battery wouldn't be a good enough ground, If I am just running from the positive on my truck to that same battery that has the neg grounded to the trailer, with a 175amp fuse inline by my truck battery as well as the trailer battery. Obviously I am not a genius when it comes to this type of stuff but am I missing something?
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  #19  
Old 01-16-2013, 08:20 PM
Kepple Services Kepple Services is offline
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I have had that connector for a long time exposed to the elements, and no ill effects. They are also mounted on the front bumpers of many road service and tow trucks so they can jump cars easily without having to open the hoods of the service vehicle. The ground is between the trailer and the truck, when you run a 12V lead from the truck to the trailer it makes them a complete circuit between the two. If the connection for the ground between the truck and trailer isnt that good (rusty ball or trailer cup) then there is a lot of reistance in the circuit. When you raise the resistance of a circuit and the voltage remains the same, then the current on the circuit must go up to compensate and this builds heat into the wire. The plug I showed you may not be the EXACT one you need, just a representaion of what I used. I just did a real quick google search.
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  #20  
Old 01-16-2013, 08:43 PM
pitrack pitrack is offline
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I understand. Hmm, well I wonder if I can "squeeze" a 4ga wire into that hookup. Probably not the best idea. I'll see if I can find a bigger connector and try to return the ones I just bought.

Thanks man
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