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#1
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Overkill or Not
Any one else thinking this way on Warm-Season Turf? In late fall/autumn Japanese beetles, June bugs, mask beetles lay egg or go into the soil. We didn't see that many but I'd bet they are there. By now they have developed into Grubs and are almost ready to surface into more beetles. I'm thinking since they are moving up towards the surface, that a spring April-May application of Dylox would kill them. I've read that the feeding during this time slows. Maybe earlier, ie, March-April would be more effective. Generally a late Spring, May-June application of Imidacloprid (Merit) prevents the grubs. Any thoughts, I've been doing this for the last three years and would be interested to see how others deal with grubs on warm-season turf. So far, no grubs.
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We all are merely gleaners from the masters who were here before us. |
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#2
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Dylox is effective all the time and is not cost effective to use as a preventive IMHO. It is best as a rescue application because it is effective in all seasons as a contact killer.
Dig in the ground and find grubs before treating for them please!!! |
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#3
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Quote:
We just took a turf management short course put on by the U of A and U of Oklahoma, so keep in mind the info I'm about to give you is for our area. Most species spend about 10 months in soil but some will remain 2-3 yrs. Flights occur early May to mid June with egg laying following shortly after Thresholds- May/June beetle, 3-5/sq ft Japanese beetle, 8-10/sq ft Masked Chafer, 8-10/sq ft Black Turfgrass Ateanius, 30-50/sq ft Preventative applications( May-July). Products used (Mach 2, Meridian, Merit Allectus, Arena, Aloft, Acelepryn, or Zylam.) Speciifc products not endorsed, only active ingredients. Curative/Rescue applications.(until mid Sept- early Oct) Products used (Dylox, Sevin, Arena, Acelepryn) Again, only active ingredients are being endorsed. If you are trying to control insects that have overwintered, I would apply the preventative earlier in the time frame given. This is the strategy I would personally use. If large grubs that are about to become adult beetles are not feeding they are also not causing damage and any eggs laid by adult beetles will be controlled as soon as they hatch and begin to feed. I would only use the curative/rescue products for actively feeding grubs to put an immediate stop to damage. Like I said, this is the approach I would take. Fortunately, we do not see much grub activity here. Last year was the worst I've seen in a long time. Mostly, because of the drought I think. I only had about a dozen cases out of hundreds of customers. Hope this helps.
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"The Poor Fish" circa 1930's: The Poor Fish wouldn't have been caught if he'd known enough to keep his fool mouth shut. Last edited by ted putnam; 02-10-2013 at 01:49 PM. |
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#4
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@ Ted, Well said. I suspect however as a preventive there are some better (safer) AI's to use. I chose not to use them or include them because of the cost. I may upsell these one day. I do not see grubs listed but mole crickets are and they are a risk too. The Mode of Action is the same.
http://certisusa.com/pdf-labels/Neemix45_label.pdf |
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#5
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Not Using dylox as a preventive has nothing to do with cost effectiveness. Dylox degrades rapidly after application, in high pH soil and or water it may be effectively useless inside of a day, it could be free and it still couldn't be used as a preventive application. For that you need residuals.
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#6
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Thanks guys: Putting down Dylox in late fall gets most of them; getting them before they stir in spring is my game plan. Main reason for posting was to see how other parts of the country reason with grubs. Thanks Ted, it's always good to see your educated post. Those dates look so close to our coastal grub seasons as well. Grubs are as big of a problem as those May flies and black flies. I have to be covered up when working early in the morning. Thanks again.
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We all are merely gleaners from the masters who were here before us. |
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#7
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Different region but this is a good basic read, same insects, same chemicals. Just adjust your timing.
http://extension.umass.edu/turf/fact...e-grub-control |
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#8
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#9
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And your point is? I was just wondering why you said dylox was too cost prohibitive for a preventive treatment, when cost has NOTHING to do with it because it simply isn't a preventive chemical. Especially after your condescending comment to the original poster to "please dig before you treat" .....carry on gents, I got some golf to watch.
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#10
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Quote:
![]() Lighten up! However, I think you should absolutely have a Target and an Action Level set well before releasing an organophosphate into the environment. |
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