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Old 02-21-2013, 03:18 PM
TurfDoctorMS TurfDoctorMS is offline
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Lowering sprayer output on skid sprayer

I just bought a 200gal skid sprayer from Westheffer Company. It has a D30 pump and a 5.5gx 160 Honda engine. I have a chemlawn gun with yellow shower tip(2gpm). My problem is that the lowest I can get my output is 2.9gpm or 126 GPA.(way to high). I have adjusted the copper set screw on top of spring to get psi as low as possible. My pressure gauge goes up to 1500psi. I am trying to get to 1-1.5 GPM or 40-60gpa. I do not want to lower my throttle. My pressure now(as best I can tell) is somewhere between 60 and 100. I think I need to swap to a different gauge to better see pressure differences. Any suggestions?

New to skids...always use boom sprayers
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Old 02-21-2013, 03:33 PM
greendoctor greendoctor is online now
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My skid sprayer is used to power a portable, hand held boom. I do not use those Chemilawn nozzles unless I am drenching an area at 10 gallons per 1000 sq ft. AI 11004VS nozzles on a 20" spacing operated at 40 PSI measured at the trigger at walking speed will apply around a gallon per 1000 sq ft. If it is over or under that, change the tips accordingly.
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Old 02-21-2013, 05:19 PM
Dreamland Lawns Dreamland Lawns is offline
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If you have a ball valve that turn off your hose reel gate that back till you have the volume that you are looking for. Just make sure to either mark the location some how or just visually remember.
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Old 02-21-2013, 07:49 PM
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ted putnam ted putnam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamland Lawns View Post
If you have a ball valve that turn off your hose reel gate that back till you have the volume that you are looking for. Just make sure to either mark the location some how or just visually remember.
Yes. Also, if he has the regulator I think he does there should actually be 2 ball valves. One goes to the reel and one goes to tank agitation. I actually leave the one that goes to the reel wide open and adjust the one that goes back to the tank. I now know the pressure mine needs to be set at to get the desired output at the hose end while still maintaining jet agitation when spraying.
I also have spray units with the Spraying Systems 8460 and 6815 regulators. They don't last as long but are much easier to adjust and fine tune.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:43 PM
TurfDoctorMS TurfDoctorMS is offline
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I have both ball valves wide open to get the least amount of pressure. It is putting out 2.9gpm. I would have to run across the lawn at that rate or waste a lot of water.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ted putnam View Post
Yes. Also, if he has the regulator I think he does there should actually be 2 ball valves. One goes to the reel and one goes to tank agitation. I actually leave the one that goes to the reel wide open and adjust the one that goes back to the tank. I now know the pressure mine needs to be set at to get the desired output at the hose end while still maintaining jet agitation when spraying.
I also have spray units with the Spraying Systems 8460 and 6815 regulators. They don't last as long but are much easier to adjust and fine tune.
Where you use a ball valve to adjust your pressure, I installed a second Regulator. If my motor speeds up or down etc I always have the same PSI coming from the manifold. I have posted that fact several time. BTW I adjust my engine speed by watching the return line from the second regulator. In my case I am only spraying solutions so agitation is not a big issue in this set up. Therefore with my spray gun wide open I adjust my engine so I get small amount of return. Why run an engine full blast and wear it out if you don't need the power. At 80 PSI with a 5 gal a minute tip and a 1/2" 300 ft hose, I am not that far above an Idle.
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Old 02-21-2013, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by TurfDoctorMS View Post
I have both ball valves wide open to get the least amount of pressure. It is putting out 2.9gpm. I would have to run across the lawn at that rate or waste a lot of water.
It sounds to me like you have some plumbing issue causing flow restriction on the pressure side. I suggest you find a local pump shop to help diagnose your problem.

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Old 02-22-2013, 09:31 AM
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RigglePLC RigglePLC is offline
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Above are good suggestions. You need to open your "return line" or agitation valve all the way, or partially open as needed, to dump the excess flow back into the tank. And reduce the rpms to reduce the excess power output from the motor. And if you don't have a valve between the pump output and the reel...put in a valve and open it part way. This restriction will have the effect of using a 3/8ths hose thereby reducing the flow rate in gallons per minute.
Switch to the white nozzle perhaps as it will put out large droplets which are more controllable and do not drift.

And...walk a little bit faster. Spraying 8 feet wide and walking 3 mph you will cover 2100 sqft per minute--that would give you 1.38 gals per thousand. At 2 mph that woud give you 2 gals per thousand, and you would cover 1408 sqft per minute. If you are in good shape and under age 55 you should be able to do 2 mph.

Last edited by RigglePLC; 02-22-2013 at 09:35 AM. Reason: added
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:00 PM
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ted putnam ted putnam is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ric View Post
Where you use a ball valve to adjust your pressure, I installed a second Regulator. If my motor speeds up or down etc I always have the same PSI coming from the manifold. I have posted that fact several time. BTW I adjust my engine speed by watching the return line from the second regulator. In my case I am only spraying solutions so agitation is not a big issue in this set up. Therefore with my spray gun wide open I adjust my engine so I get small amount of return. Why run an engine full blast and wear it out if you don't need the power. At 80 PSI with a 5 gal a minute tip and a 1/2" 300 ft hose, I am not that far above an Idle.
Yes Ric. I use 400 ft of 3/8" hose. My pressure is adjusted to 100psi. I have the regulators and the ball valve adjusted such that my motor is running a bit more than an idle but certainly not anywhere near wide open. I agree, there's no need in wearing out a perfectly good Honda. I've got one that's 13 yrs old and still kicking. The only thing I've ever done to it is change oil, air filter and about 4 on/off switches...oh, and pull ropes. It sits outside 24 hrs a day.

P.S. I have seen you post about the second regultor. What is the model number of that regulator if you don't mind me asking? I would not think it would be difficult to install.
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Last edited by ted putnam; 02-22-2013 at 06:09 PM.
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Old 02-22-2013, 07:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ted putnam View Post
Yes Ric. I use 400 ft of 3/8" hose. My pressure is adjusted to 100psi. I have the regulators and the ball valve adjusted such that my motor is running a bit more than an idle but certainly not anywhere near wide open. I agree, there's no need in wearing out a perfectly good Honda. I've got one that's 13 yrs old and still kicking. The only thing I've ever done to it is change oil, air filter and about 4 on/off switches...oh, and pull ropes. It sits outside 24 hrs a day.

P.S. I have seen you post about the second regultor. What is the model number of that regulator if you don't mind me asking? I would not think it would be difficult to install.
Ted

The issue is the Pipe Thread on the D 30 manifold are BRITISH PIPE STANDARD not American threads. I use a nylon coupling and cross thread it on the Ball valve that came with the D 30. The Regulator came from Tractor supply years ago and is a plastic model with a port for a Gage. I think I paid less than $ 20 for it.

.
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"TG doesn't give a rats ass about being "Responsible" as long as sales/production quotas are met. That's it in a nutshell. A recipe for disaster IMO." Ted Putnam 2/28/14

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"As Americans you have the right to be stupid." John Kerry

"Life is tough, but it's tougher when you're stupid.” John Wayne.
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