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  #41  
Old 11-30-2013, 08:07 PM
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[QUOTE=ed2hess;4687569]FH381V AS29-R. The machine doesn't want to start after sitting over nite. If I put a small squik of quick start away it goes. And it will start on almost the first pull the rest of day. New plugs, new gas filter, valves set, carb overhaul last year.

/QUOTE]
So I am beginning to wonder if it wouldn't be better to get a cheap new engine instead of messing with overhaul. Anybody know why this one wouldn't be a suitable replacement. Using it on 36"snapper pro sw20, wb.
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  #42  
Old 12-06-2013, 05:44 PM
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Got back to the FH381V that wouldn't start without ether and had bad compression on one side. I measured the cyclinders with telescoping gauges 2.558" and I can't tell much. Going in to dealer. I don't want to clean up valves until expert tells whether new rings will help. I can't tell if wear is uneven...

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This was side that had exhaust leaking.

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  #43  
Old 12-06-2013, 06:36 PM
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Ed. Remove the top ring from the piston that had good compression..
Insert it in the cyl bore it came out of...check the gap with a feeler gauge...
Now...insert it in the other cyl bore ...measure the end gap again..it prolly won't change much..
That v twin: is a short stroke engine...it ain't gonna have wavy bores...maybe scratches or grooves...
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  #44  
Old 12-09-2013, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by piston slapper View Post
Ed. Remove the top ring from the piston that had good compression..
Insert it in the cyl bore it came out of...check the gap with a feeler gauge...
Now...insert it in the other cyl bore ...measure the end gap again..it prolly won't change much..
That v twin: is a short stroke engine...it ain't gonna have wavy bores...maybe scratches or grooves...
The gap measured .014" @.793 and 1.71"depth on good cyclinder and just about the Same on leaky cyclinder. I used top ring on good cyclinder on both. The bottom ring had crud in groove on leaking cyclinder but was not seized. Looked better on the good cyclinder.
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  #45  
Old 12-09-2013, 07:56 PM
DXN1EL DXN1EL is offline
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Did you bought the cheap engine?
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  #46  
Old 12-09-2013, 08:00 PM
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Did you bought the cheap engine?
no going to try to do a cheap rebuild on my Kaw...doing almost of the tear down and clean up of the heads.
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  #47  
Old 12-10-2013, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed2hess View Post
The gap measured .014" @.793 and 1.71"depth on good cyclinder and just about the Same on leaky cyclinder. I used top ring on good cyclinder on both. The bottom ring had crud in groove on leaking cyclinder but was not seized. Looked better on the good cyclinder.
Looks like yur good to go...
Deglaze the cylinders...clean up the valves and heads...
Replace the rings and seals....get a few more years out of it...
Its a piece of cake....
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  #48  
Old 01-12-2014, 07:05 PM
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Rookie mistake ends well.

Got around to putting the heads together and one spring, retainer, and one collet shot in orbit. I cleaned out about 10% of the garage to find the parts. I thought no way will I find them with shelfs of stuff and leaves on the floor and dirt, but got lucky.

The collets are little buggers to get on compared to other engines I have worked on.

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Added cardboard backboard to stop stuff. I have to get
Sides all around.

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  #49  
Old 01-27-2014, 07:39 PM
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Rebuilt engine only starts with ether

New rings and reworked heads still needed shot of ether to start.

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I decided it had to be the carb but new one at $250 a no go. I had the originql carb and a used swap out. I finally figured out that when I cleaned the carbs I failed to get the main jet out. I only got seat out and shot carb cleaner in. The jet was not clean. DEBRIS was around the outside and could only be cleand by removing it.

[ATTACH]284664[/ATTAC

It is now starting and running fine at low and high rpm. Now I will wait and see if it starts after sitting a couple days.
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  #50  
Old 01-29-2014, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ed2hess View Post
New rings and reworked heads still needed shot of ether to start.

Attachment 284663

I decided it had to be the carb but new one at $250 a no go. I had the originql carb and a used swap out. I finally figured out that when I cleaned the carbs I failed to get the main jet out. I only got seat out and shot carb cleaner in. The jet was not clean. DEBRIS was around the outside and could only be cleand by removing it.

[ATTACH]284664[/ATTAC

It is now starting and running fine at low and high rpm. Now I will wait and see if it starts after sitting a couple days.
Persistence pays off! Good update. Plus you have a like new motor.
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