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  #11  
Old 02-11-2003, 10:09 PM
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Mscotrid Mscotrid is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: USA
Posts: 1,431
Spring fert

Guys,

First when you deal in Nitrogen, state lbs per 1000. ie 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 etc. To say i put down a 13, 19, 22, 32 etc does not really tell anybody how much N your refering to.

There are many choices and question as to when and when not to fert. If your mowing you might not want excessive growth in the spring. Mothernature has a bigger influence on green-up than we do.

Cold weather, lack of moisture and limited sun light hours will slow green up. In the spring, depending on your climate and turf type your applications will vary. Your choice of pre-emergent might influence your app timing as would the size of your operation.

Theres a 100 ways to do this and 99 of them are probably correct.

M
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  #12  
Old 03-29-2003, 12:58 AM
lordohturf lordohturf is offline
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: SW OH
Posts: 173
early spring

Unfortunately, agronomics don't have much to do with how many
companies perform lawn service! Customers want GREEN, WEED FREE lawns. The earlier the green, the better!

The recommendations of little N in the spring is probably not bad.
You could compromise by using lighter nitrogen apps early with
the proper preemergent product. As many guys have stated, if
you do a late fall dormant feeding, you should get an early green
up and substantial spring growth without any additional spring
fert.

How you sell your service up front will help solving some of these issues later. Information to an interested customer can save you
alot of problems later.
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  #13  
Old 04-01-2003, 04:24 PM
timturf timturf is offline
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Location: central virgina, transition, plant hardy zone 7a, and heat index zone 7
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Cool season turf feed heavy in fall!!
Va tech recommendations: in all their suggestions, spring fed is the last option!!!!!!

Manufactors of fert and pre emerge combinations make it difficult for lco!!!!

458
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  #14  
Old 04-03-2003, 06:46 AM
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Tharrell Tharrell is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Mount Airy, NC aka Mayberry
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Fall and winter slow release is the best thing for healthy green up in the spring. You can help it green up in the spring with some liquid iron. Explain to your customers that despite what Wal-Mart and all the meglo-marts say, the season starts in the fall.
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  #15  
Old 04-03-2003, 08:28 AM
ncsd91 ncsd91 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Morganton
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For cool seasoon (tall fescue)

Mid Jan. *Soil Test, *Lime Application, *Spot treat for Broadleaf weeds, and * 19-19-19 Application (if needed)

Mid Feb/Mar. *Application of 19-3-7 Pre-M 50%Poly, *Spot Treat for Broadleaf Weeds

End of Apr. *Application of 13-2-5 Pre-M 30%Poly, *Spot treat for Broadleaf weeds

End of May. *Fungicide Application (optional)

End of June. *Application of 5-10-31 10% iron

July/August. *Application of Lime, Fungicide app. (opt.) and *white grubs control (opt.)

Sept/Oct. *Aerate, seeds and application of starter (50%)

Nov/Dec. *Application of 24-5-11 50% 2% iron
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  #16  
Old 04-03-2003, 04:24 PM
timturf timturf is offline
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Location: central virgina, transition, plant hardy zone 7a, and heat index zone 7
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ncsd91

what state?

how many lbs of fert per application?

What % active ingredient in combination products?

Give us that info, and your post would be informative and helpful!!!!!
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Bs in Plant and Soil Science
Almost 40 yrs exp., 20 as GC superintendent
Primarly work with cool season turf
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  #17  
Old 04-03-2003, 05:08 PM
ncsd91 ncsd91 is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Morganton
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All the products are from Lesco. I have Lesco's Tall Fescue Maintenance program. For seeds, I use Transition seeds that are three different types of seeds and they mix it.

Most fertilizer covers 12,500 sqft for 50 pounds. I use Lesco rotary spreader. Most bags will tell you the Lesco setting number you need to adjust for rotary.

I live in Morganton, NC and Transition works very well in our area and can stand dought. It will be light brown when dought but the grass will not dying. Also it makes it very thick and dark green. Transition seeds most are made as for turf type tall fescue.

I will be happy to scan papers and email to you if you need this info which I had from Lesco.

Keith
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  #18  
Old 04-03-2003, 08:35 PM
timturf timturf is offline
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orginal post was basically is spring fert necesary.

ncsd91 posted his program, was interesting, but didn't really help lawnsolutions because he didn't tell use the rate / 1000 material being applied.

Don't know what part of country ncsd91 is located

Now we know he is in nc, uses lesco products, usually applied at 4 lbs/ 1000, BUT, he states most are applied at 4 lbs / 1000

To really help lawnsolution, please give rate of material applied / 1000, and active ingredient for pesticides.

I have no idea what lesco Tall fescue maintaince program is, and wonder how many other people don't?

I'm guesing nitrogen level acceptable, but think more needs to be applied in fall!

Point I was trying to make, WE ALL NEED to post enough info to be truly helpful. Maybe we should have more info in our profiles! A lot of response leave out too much info, actual, same is usually true of orginal post.
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Almost 40 yrs exp., 20 as GC superintendent
Primarly work with cool season turf
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  #19  
Old 04-04-2003, 05:28 PM
lawnstudent lawnstudent is offline
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: NE Illinois
Posts: 472
The best time to fert for rapid spring green-up is in late fall.

Early use of fast release N fert in spring is a recipe for a disease prone lawn.

Nitrogen forces vegetative growth at the expense of your root system. Early spring N apps can harm a turf's roots.

Cold soils inhibit turf green-up in early spring. Anything you can do to warm the soil will improve green-up. This includes mowing the grass short before it actively starts growing (just don't mow so short as to kill the crowns). Aerate to improve drainage and remove the excess moisture we get in spring. Water takes lots of energy to heat up and keeps a soil cold.

jim
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  #20  
Old 04-04-2003, 06:14 PM
GroundKprs GroundKprs is offline
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Location: South Bend, IN
Posts: 1,969
Spring fertilization in cool season turf is beneficial for ONE BIG thing. The bank account. It is a negative physiological effect on cool season turfgrasses, as pointed out above.

The only thing I ever apply before Memorial Day here would be a light application of a starter ferlilizer, a product with a roughly 1-2-1 ratio. And this is only for lawns in a stess environment, mostly heavy soils. I apply at a rate of about 0.1#N/K, never more than 0.25#N/K. The main purpose of this application is the P for root growth, and it must be applied in very late winter, early spring as the ground thaws. That is a good month before you see any leaf growth.

Anyone today applying significant spring N to cool season turf doesn't know what he's doing, or is just churning revenue. And lots of business, big or small, like to churn those $$$. LOL.
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