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  #11  
Old 03-10-2013, 09:54 AM
Benfield Benfield is offline
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Its is not worth buying. Sounds to me like you need a MS461 Rock Saw if you are going to cut rocks.
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  #12  
Old 03-10-2013, 11:41 AM
CL&T CL&T is offline
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Understood, but the OP is talking about repair work of leaking lines. Those boulders didn't grow there after the pipe was originally installed so if they weren't a problem then they shouldn't be now. Smaller stuff might have been pushed out of the way by the plow or in with the trencher backfill and should be removed. Roots I can see being a problem.
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  #13  
Old 03-10-2013, 12:01 PM
whiffyspark whiffyspark is online now
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I use a pruning blade on a sawzall. Blades make all the difference
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  #14  
Old 03-10-2013, 12:59 PM
agrostis agrostis is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whiffyspark View Post
I use a pruning blade on a sawzall. Blades make all the difference
Posted via Mobile Device
I passed that carbide tipped chain link on to a machinist. He said that you couldn't sharpen those carbide tip's with a hand file, he also said he was going to try one.

For cutting root's i use the right tool for the job, a dewalt battery operated sawzall with these blade's.

http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accesso...ing/48-00-1301
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  #15  
Old 03-10-2013, 05:24 PM
CL&T CL&T is offline
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I've used a pruning blade like that and they are good but not in soil. They'll dull in short order like any other wood blade. That's why I mentioned that carbide tipped Sawzall blade.
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  #16  
Old 03-10-2013, 06:32 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by agrostis View Post
I passed that carbide tipped chain link on to a machinist. He said that you couldn't sharpen those carbide tip's with a hand file, he also said he was going to try one.

For cutting root's i use the right tool for the job, a dewalt battery operated sawzall with these blade's.
That looks good we are using a sears battery operated with a simple
wood blade....your will be improvement and I think it will fit our unit.
http://www.milwaukeetool.com/accesso...ing/48-00-1301
Quote:
Originally Posted by CL&T View Post
I've used a pruning blade like that and they are good but not in soil. They'll dull in short order like any other wood blade. That's why I mentioned that carbide tipped Sawzall blade.
Another good idea .....didn't realize they made those. Much better
than th echain saw..should be less costly
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  #17  
Old 03-11-2013, 09:25 AM
rlitman rlitman is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CL&T View Post
I've used a pruning blade like that and they are good but not in soil. They'll dull in short order like any other wood blade. That's why I mentioned that carbide tipped Sawzall blade.
You're right of course, and I have used those carbide tipped sawzall blades (Freud Demo Demon) with great success on other projects (I liked them so much, I cut out a piece and welded it to a blade shank, so I can use one with my Fein tool).

But they're not really appropriate for green wood. Look at how open the tooth space is on that pruning blade. You need that to remove the fibers from cutting live wood (a chainsaw gets around chip removal in a better way, but that's not really a good idea in dirt).

What you need (but does not exist), is a carbide tipped pruning blade. Something with carbide teeth, but a tooth design made for green wood, not dried construction materials. If I really needed to do this a lot, I'd probably modify some of these by removing every other tooth.
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  #18  
Old 03-11-2013, 07:43 PM
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ed2hess ed2hess is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CL&T View Post
I've used a pruning blade like that and they are good but not in soil. They'll dull in short order like any other wood blade. That's why I mentioned that carbide tipped Sawzall blade.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlitman View Post
You're right of course, and I have used those carbide tipped sawzall blades (Freud Demo Demon) with great success on other projects (I liked them so much, I cut out a piece and welded it to a blade shank, so I can use one with my Fein tool).

But they're not really appropriate for green wood. Look at how open the tooth space is on that pruning blade. You need that to remove the fibers from cutting live wood (a chainsaw gets around chip removal in a better way, but that's not really a good idea in dirt).

What you need (but does not exist), is a carbide tipped pruning blade. Something with carbide teeth, but a tooth design made for green wood, not dried construction materials. If I really needed to do this a lot, I'd probably modify some of these by removing every other tooth.
Can either of you guys give me an internet pointer for those blades?
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  #19  
Old 03-11-2013, 09:58 PM
CL&T CL&T is offline
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I think we did. Go back and look at those posts.
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  #20  
Old 03-14-2013, 05:14 PM
rlitman rlitman is online now
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Here's the one I was talking about (same idea):
http://www.diablotools.com/recip-wood.html

The carbide tipped is available in a 12" blade, but while 6TPI is nice and coarse for demolition, it is still a little fine for green wood.
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