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  #31  
Old 03-10-2013, 10:02 PM
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RhettMan RhettMan is offline
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Originally Posted by 1idejim View Post
Or after your high school sweetheart, Rosious Palmious.
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yall broke up ?
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  #32  
Old 03-10-2013, 10:22 PM
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Fimco would discover Pigtalium
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  #33  
Old 03-11-2013, 11:49 AM
Fine Gardens Landscaping Fine Gardens Landscaping is offline
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Originally Posted by muddywater View Post
Like others I would want to know the output of voltage at the clock and at the valve. If it is 24+ at both ends that would say it is not an electrical output problem. If the solenoid doesn't ohm 24+, it might be a bad diaphram. It seems to me solenoids ohm out differently. Rainbirds tend to be 50ish and Hunters 20ish. If it ohmed out ok, I would replace diaphram.

If it is a hydraulic system, your gonna need to contact Jim!
Thanks for the response. I should start by admitting I'm green on the diagnosis/electrical aspect of irrigation and I need a little clarification on a couple points you made.

I assumed that since the station comes on partially that it was receiving voltage from the clock. I wasn't aware that you could maybe only be getting partial voltage which I guess would equal partial solenoid operation?

As to the next step in the trouble shoot:

It's a little unclear but I think you're telling me to check resistance of the solenoid and that if it the resistance reads between 20ish - 50ish ohms that would indicate a good solenoid? The valve is a Hardie 3/4" inline valve if that helps.

Then, if both of the above check out that would indicate a bad diaphragm.
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  #34  
Old 03-11-2013, 02:33 PM
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There are geysers on the ocean floor, but they get no credit because we cant seem them.
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while im thinking baout it i also suggest Lean cuisine, Microwaveable shrimp Alfredo. 2 pcs toast. mm
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  #35  
Old 03-11-2013, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fine Gardens Landscaping View Post
Thanks for the response. I should start by admitting I'm green on the diagnosis/electrical aspect of irrigation and I need a little clarification on a couple points you made.

I assumed that since the station comes on partially that it was receiving voltage from the clock. I wasn't aware that you could maybe only be getting partial voltage which I guess would equal partial solenoid operation?

As to the next step in the trouble shoot:

It's a little unclear but I think you're telling me to check resistance of the solenoid and that if it the resistance reads between 20ish - 50ish ohms that would indicate a good solenoid? The valve is a Hardie 3/4" inline valve if that helps.

Then, if both of the above check out that would indicate a bad diaphragm.
I don't want to confuse you but the actual measurement you are seeking is amperage.

A solenoid has an inrush current requirement and a holding current requirement.

For example:

A RB PGA has a coil resistance of 30-39 Ohms. An inrush current of 0.41 A and a holding current of 0.28 A.

Without voltage drop and having a 24 vac measurement at the controller you have 0.8 A available with a 30 Ohm solenoid.

The same 24 vac with a 39 Ohm solenoid drops to 0.615 A.

The same 24 vac at 60 Ohms though only gives you 0.4 A to work with.

It is easier to take these measurements at the controller than it is to get into the VB, open and replace the splices to get your information.

If i were trblshtng this system i would eliminate the elect. first, then move on to the hydraulics
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  #36  
Old 03-11-2013, 03:08 PM
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Mike Leary Mike Leary is online now
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[QUOTE=1idejim;4702190]I don't want to confuse you but the actual measurement you are seeking is amperage.

What the cowboy said. 20 to 30 amps is my tolerence level.

Last edited by Mike Leary; 03-11-2013 at 03:13 PM.
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  #37  
Old 03-11-2013, 03:32 PM
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if the mayor of Cactus Hug discovered an element, it might get named Nilssonium
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  #38  
Old 03-11-2013, 06:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wet_Boots View Post
if the mayor of Cactus Hug discovered an element, it might get named Nilssonium
O.K., I screwed it up. I meant .20 to .30 amps. A pro clock is usually good for 1.0 amps, Rain Master will handle 2.0 amps, as I would think Calsense and the
Maxi-Coms would do.
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  #39  
Old 03-13-2013, 11:19 AM
Fine Gardens Landscaping Fine Gardens Landscaping is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1idejim View Post
I don't want to confuse you but the actual measurement you are seeking is amperage.

A solenoid has an inrush current requirement and a holding current requirement.

For example:

A RB PGA has a coil resistance of 30-39 Ohms. An inrush current of 0.41 A and a holding current of 0.28 A.

Without voltage drop and having a 24 vac measurement at the controller you have 0.8 A available with a 30 Ohm solenoid.

The same 24 vac with a 39 Ohm solenoid drops to 0.615 A.

The same 24 vac at 60 Ohms though only gives you 0.4 A to work with.

It is easier to take these measurements at the controller than it is to get into the VB, open and replace the splices to get your information.

If i were trblshtng this system i would eliminate the elect. first, then move on to the hydraulics
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Okay, I mostly follow but need clarification on where/how to read my measurements?

We prefer to take measurements at controller because it's more convenient but how do we do it exactly?

Did you mean to do it like so:

Coil Resistance: Read from common & station power connector in ohms should be 30-50ish ohms depending on coil model

Inrush current. Read from common to station power connector in amps. Turn on station and see how many amps there are when it initially powers on. Should be a small amount like .5 A or something (depends on solenoid model)

Holding current: Read from common to station power connector in amps. See what the Inrush current drops to after the station initially powers on. Should be slightly less than the inrush current.

Sorry to bring the discussion down to such a basic level but that's the level I'm at
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  #40  
Old 03-13-2013, 12:08 PM
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Solenoid inrush currents may not be readable, unless you have some instrument that captures a peak reading. Holding current would be what you'll read. Most clamparound ammeters won't really be intended to work with sub-ampere currents, even if they'll display something. I used an analog clamparound with a special added scale of 1.5 amps that 'saved the day' more than once when there was one unknown zone that would trip the controller's circuit breaker only at times when no one was looking.
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